chrispb123456

Seen a few posts recently regarding the auxiliary fuse box next to the battery melting. I came across mine getting hot while spraying all the electric components with WD40, with the engine running I noticed the two terminals nearest the battery were quite hot around the crimped area. :) A high resistance in the connection with the crimped spades and the cable with a high current causes the connection to get hot and eventually melt and burn, this could be avoided by early inspection of the fuse box and taking appropriate action ie, soldering the joints in the box, you will need a large soldering iron to do this although I done mine with a blow lamp but care must be taken not to melt the insulation. That was four years ago and it's still fine. :) So all you guys and girls out there if you haven't had the problem up till now go and have a look at the fuse box, you may be lucky and someone's already soldered the terminals if they haven't and there's discolouration on the terminal then you could have an inpending failure. There's been posts on here where members have had alternators replaced because of this when there's been nothing wrong with it!!!! :)

Make a note or print these off then clear all faults, then drive car and retest see whats come back as they may be old faults from years gone by

Evaporative Emission Canister, Draws petrol fumes from the tank and burns them in the engine under certain driving conditions

Stevo Are you using 409.1 software or VCDS lite as the latency test is only on VCDS lite, also check COM port settings in device manager, you must be using only COM 1 to 4 and this must be the same when doing the test communication on VAG COM or VCDS lite software.

Hi and welcome to the forum Blocked drains are one of the faults that will give you wet footwells as rainwater can flood into the heater and end up on your carpet. As you say you have cleared these undo the plastic wheel arch liners and check for dirt and rubbish collecting there also check condition of bulkhead/floor area for rot, you may have a hole going through where water can get in. Other possibilities are; Do you have a sunroof? the drain tube may have come detached or blocked. Heater matrix leaking (you will have loss of coolant) Aircon drain blocked (although less likely this time of year) Windscreen could be leaking across bonding (water running down behind dashboard)

Hi Not with mine, if you move away from the object it stops beeping, then when you drive away the light on the switch goes out automatically

Hi The booster heater needs to have power going to it, check fuse 12 first if thats ok you need to look at the multi plug at the heater as the wires there corrode and break off, the large red lead is the main supply.

Here here :ph34r:

Hi Mike looking at the grill under the bumper to your right you will see it through the grill

Mirez (Mark) will know for sure if there's a link between aircon and outside temp, im not sure that there is. You know where the sensor is located, behind the lower grill to the right of centre as you look at the front, black plastic block in a clip just unplug to replace.

Hi Mike Assuming you cleared the fault codes regarding temp sensor? has the fault code come back? and are you saying your dash display is inaccurate or showing wrong outside temp, aircon will normally kick in at any temp if its selected but has little effect below +5deg c

Hi and welcome to the forum I think you need to go back to the drivers door trunking and inspect each wire carefully, the insulation may look OK but wire has broken inside, this is a common fault on these cars and causes all sorts of problems with electric windows, central locking, mirrors, speakers,and alarm.

No chance - I wouldn't be able to bear the hurt look in all your eyes once you realised that you lot are so damn ugly ( except mumof4) and I am so good looking!!:ph34r: Yer right more like she's blooming gorgeous and your not!!LOLOL ;) :16: :15:

Hi It's only a few screws to get the glove box out you will then see the heater motor, series resistor for manual or the hedgehog pack for climatronic.

Hi The plastic impeller refers to early MK2 engine water pumps, the run on pump located on the bulkhead behind fuel filter and circulates water through the rear heater and the booster heater, it also has the job of keeping the coolant circulating for a few minutes after engine is switched off to avoid hot spots in the engine. It's also used when the car has the independent heating option. Check your pump is running? just turn on ignition without starting engine you should hear it humming if it's dead you will need to either replace or follow instructions in the FAQ's tech section to repair yourself.

iirc it dosen't matter which way round they go, I found a plug on an old wiring loom I had and just soldered the wires to it.

Maybe faulty or badly adjusted stoplight switch.

Type in your reg no. and you should see your details http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=15FCBD4DFF5B4827CFB82F381C7664E3.dulv0675

Is there power going to the stop solenoid on injection pump?

Hi again There will always be evidence of oil in the air charge piping, it,s deciding whether it may be excessive or not, leakage can be from the turbo seals but may also be from crankcase pressure in the form of oil mist. The big question would be does the engine need topping up with oil regularly? or does it not use oil? if its the latter then you got nothing to worry about. Take that large pipe off the egr valve then get a small mirror to look into egr to see how restricted with soot it is, you will need to remove it to clean it if it is.

STOP DONT DO IT replace the filter, you dont want all those leaves and s**t going down into the heater and give you more problems. You can get just the plain paper filter which will stop the dirt getting in, or you can get the more expensive carbon filter which helps reduce incoming smells

Run on pump wont affect main heater but will have an effect on the running of the booster heater and rear compartment heater.

First of all don't keep starting new posts for the same problem, Cant agree with the "mostly unsolved" more like cant be bothered to reply I would say at least 50% don't reply to help or advice given. Piecing together what you have had changed and checked You are probably looking at head gasket failure, I know you said it hadn't overheated, but has it been driven hard on a motorway recently this will usually show it up. At 90deg's C all heater pipes should be hot not just warm Air in the system is generated internally by gasket failure or cracks in the head or block.

Thanks we have checked the fuses and all are fine, so may take a look a the eires in the doors, is this an easy fix? Can be a bit fiddly, depends how you are on auto electrics, this is a common fault and you need to inspect each wire carefully as the wire may be broke inside the insulation, you will need to cut out the bad piece and replace with new ideally soldered and use heat shrink to insulate.