chrispb123456

Hi there You need to inspect the wiring trunking going to the drivers door and possibly rear tail gate, as wires are prone to breaking and chaffing, causes all sorts of problems you may need to check fuses aswell. There is instructions in the FAQ's of the technical section for help with this

:lol: That seems ironic when we spend most of the time trying to get the engine hot quicker, I know when I first had trouble with my run on pump the rear compartment heater would only get warm not hot like the front heater and if you increased the rear blower to maximum would eventually blow cold and at the same time the booster had started cycling up and down and eventually lock out because it had registered an overheat. That may be true about the hot spots and perhaps by fitting the run on pump in the flow has brought it's own problem when it goes wrong of restricting the flow through the booster and the rear compartment heaters.

You need to remove the scuttle tray (3 bolts) to have better access to the pump. Other jobs that need scuttle removing are: Pollen filter Wiper motor assembly Air temp sensor for booster heater Removing leaves and dirt Alarm hooter

It is self bleeding just leave the filler cap off till engines up to temp, but you may get air trapped in booster heater and rear compartment heater if run on pump is not working.

I have posted pics of run on pump location before and there are others, you have to do a search for them, the pump is located behind fuel filter on the bulkhead

The bottom hose from radiator carries cooled water back to the engine after passing through radiator so will always feel cool even in summer.

Hi and welcome to the forum Just a few questions for you Is your car climatronic or manual heat control? Do the flow and return pipes to the front and rear heaters both get hot? (front pipes go through bulkhead behind engine, rear pipes under car by N/S/R wheel)

Hi John You may get a temporary reprieve by using wynns but I think your only putting off the inevitable, if your in law is confident and has a decent set of tools shouldn't be a problem although don't expect it done in a day as there's things like the EGR valve and turbo will need cleaning and be prepared for rusty exhaust nuts on the turbo.

If you have a tow bar a trailer is another option, I have my own but you can hire them if you dont want to buy one :(

Any rise in coolant level when hot should always return to the previous level when cold, likewise with the pressure it will return to zero when cold.

In that case if you remove the filler cap when the engines cold does it blow out like it's still under pressure? if so you may have early stage of head gasket failure.

Look on here. http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do

Would expect level to be slightly higher when engines hot and will return to normal when cold, check the colour of the sensor to make sure you get the same as I beleive there's more than 1 type.

Hi there Could be a sticking thermostat but as you haven't lost any water I would change the temperature sensor first.

Hi Andrew Yes the booster heater is the one under the car, all diesel versions have one look under the N/S/R passenger door you will see a small exhaust pipe coming from the heater it is fully automatic and operates if the outside air temp is below approx 10deg, common faults is the glow plug, and coolant run on pump vag-com can help diagnosis and may be needed to clear fault codes which will stop the unit working, there is a lot of information on the site about this, you can do a search and also look in the FAQ's section. I would advise you either get a Vag-Com lead first or you may find a member close to you willing to run a check for you? where are you located?

Yes as billy says check fuses the main one is 12 also 3 & 19 if fuses are OK check the wiring on the multi plug at the heater unit for breakages/corrosion.

Hi Andy 18-Aux Heat is the correct section for the booster heater, what exactly does the message say, are you able to open any other controllers. ie. Engine, central elect, Auto HVAC.

Both are compatible with either personally I use Vag-Com or as it's now called VCDS lite. Lots of interface cables available on Ebay like the one Zorgman has indicated some come with a software disc some don't but software is available free from the ross-tech website.

When you stop for a short period of time the plenum chamber where the air temperature sensor is located warms sufficiently from the heat of the engine, so if not much time has passed ie, 10 mins the temp sensor has now switched off the heater circuit until the temp falls enough to initiate heater again. Below 5 deg's on MK1 and below 10 deg's on MK2.

No its just residual heat from the engine

Hi Lisa/Paul Diesel engines fitted to the Galaxy and other modern cars are direct injection which in your case you shouldn't have the starting problems of the old indirect injection engines, don't want to confuse you waffle so what I'm saying is providing engine is mechanically OK your engine will start without glow plugs connected thats why you didn't notice any difference when plugs were changed but they do help with smoke emissions and smoother running after engine has started. Unlike the PD engine in the MK2 you don't have an electric fuel pump in the tank to supply fuel to the injection pump, it has a separate pump inside the injection pump which only pumps when cranking engine therefore you really need to check all fuel pipe connections between injection pump down to tank including fuel filter and injector leak off pipes connections, you may be drawing air in the fuel system. Engine starting by using easy start may confirm air in system You are killing your battery every time your cranking it over and it doesn't start, will need charging for at least 48 hours minimum before condemning it. Also check the electric stop solenoid on the fuel injection pump for intermittent power supply as this needs constant supply when ignitions on, no power no start. When you change the fuel filter carefully check the o ring on the plastic connector,you will benefit if you can fill the new filter with clean diesel before you fit as there is no hand primer you will again have to crank it over to get the air out the system