chrispb123456

Hi Jimbo Glad to hear you have your VagCom cable are you able to open most modules ie, Engine, central Electrics, etc then at least you have configured your VagCom/laptop setup if your having problems contacting Aux Heater firstly check fuse 12 because the heater needs power going to it to be able to interrogate it, if the fuse is OK then you need to reach up in the gap at the end of heater and disconnect the multiplug to check condition of the wiring going into the plugs as the larger red wire is known for corroding and breaking off.

Im glad I dont live in your street :) Dosing pump is the small solenoid type pump that supplies the diesel to the booster heater, as you said the heater is not working then it wont be that. Do you have climatronic or manual heating controls? Some leads come with a software disc which has the 409.1 version but the latest free software is VCDS lite from Ross Tech you can use either usefull links; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6 http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

Hi First thoughts on the ticking noise for the location you give is a relay clicking in the fuse/central electrics box, also the booster heater dosing pump makes a ticking noise when starting up, this does quieten down when heaters fully fired up although I gather yours isn't working due to the fact your temperature is falling when you put blowers on, this is because the engine doesn't make enough heat on it's own at low speed. The run on pump needs to be working to ensure coolant circulation through rear compartment heater and correct operation of booster heater that said the booster may have its own problems and even be locked out if it has flame out errors or overheats logged. Vag-Com will be needed to check this for easier diagnosis. Pull the fuse box cover down and listen closely for this noise there the dosing pump is located outside under the car in front of diesel tank in line with drivers seat

Totally agree with Sparky Paul, they may have replaced the head gasket but was that the only problem, diesel heads can suffer cracks or become porous. It is also known that cars that have been chipped have been known to develop cracks around valve seats. Whats the condition of the coolant, does it look brown rusty colour, is there any evidence of boiling over around the filler cap area. Water pumps on early MK2 had plastic impeller on the water pump which can shear off but don't think that applies to your year. Just hope you got it at the right price?

Possibilities for front (main) heater Sheared water pump impellor Blocked heater matrix(s) Thermostat Head gasket failure (pumping air into system) Air doors/motors. Possibilities for rear compartment heater. As above + Electric circulating pump (run on pump) Booster heater best diagnosed with Vagcom, likely glow plug.

You need to remove EGR valve to do it properly its a dirty job if you got delicate hands make sure to use barrier creme, it can be quite stubborn removing crud from valve which you can dig out with small scraper or screwdriver a can of carb cleaner is useful to finish it off. removing the small exhaust tube from under EGR is the worst part, definitely remove bulkhead plate its only three bolts.

Yes it looks right cant comment on its usability, I use VagCom/VCDS lite.

You guys have you physically looked through the air intake of the EGR valve, the oily soot builds up in here which restricts air flow which can cause the MAP sensor to resister an overboost, blanking off the vacuum pipe will stop the EGR working which will stop further soot building up but the valve needs to be clean to start with, and it doesn't cost anything just a bit of time and scraped knuckles B)

Would be interested to know your reasons why you shouldn't tow start or bump start a diesel car, It may be the only option. And low fuel level can be a problem if car is facing downhill on a steep gradient, will also cause a flame out on booster heater if in process of startup

yeh its fubar, when it first went engine kept stalling, now its just the sweet smell of burning clutch :lol: , system was emptied at a garage to attempt to get car mobile again, as for flushing and regas not sure its worth it, don't plan on using air con as its a piss poor system that seems to cause more trouble than comfort If your really not bothered about having aircon why not take the compressor off and put a shorter belt on? Personally I wouldn't be without it now, even though it's poor system it's better than nothing, driving with the windows open is alright on short journeys but is to noisy on long motorway drives, and with the added drag will hit your fuel economy also.

Yer right Mark bloody show off :D

There are quite a few online breakers which will give you a no obligation quote I have used Parts Gateway in the past and had good service. Just fill in a simple form with your part then they will email if they have stock, you then decide if the price is right . http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/

When do you start your fighter pilot training Greg :P I think I'll stick with Flamingo Drive :)

cheers and amen to that :rolleyes:thank you :D I'll bet you didn't get a B5WZ heater kit for ya Happy Birthday :P

Sounds like scuttle drains are blocked!! do a search on here its all been covered before many times before.

Hi and welcome to the forum Link to vagcom cable http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-ODB2-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-/200512414038?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2eaf78a156 Then download VCDS lite software free from http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/ VagCom will not work on your engine because its the Ford 2.3 but you can use it for all the other modules ie. Central Electrics, Auto Transmission, Heating/Aircon

Yes its OK blanking off the pipe, but have you cleaned the crud out of the valve. The incoming air still has to pass through the valve even though you stopped the valve operating.

Drain tube sticks out from bulkhead down behind gearbox bell housing, if it's OK perhaps the heater/aircon casing is leaking. Would advise removing as much trim around tunnel and lower dash as possible then run aircon, you should be able to see where its coming from then

DMF and clutch maybe at fault as your having problem engaging gears.

Hi just been looking at that fuse 3, covers a lot of items including rear mirrors, maybe and I mean just maybe the drivers door trunking has some chafing causing that fuse to blow. Have you had any problems with electric windows, central locking, or alarm recently?

Hello Jay Only guessing here but check the constant velocity joints they may be starting to seize up.

Hi It may sound a silly question but are you sure it needs to be connected? as you often have spare plugs hanging not connected to anything depending on spec of car. Does the car run?

Hi there thepieman iirc 25MPH for the 2.3 although don't advise using CC at that speed/built up area's