chrispb123456

Hi Dave As already said you need to establish whether run on pump is working, just turn ignition on without starting engine you should hear a hum from inside the car if it's quiet, or lift the bonnet, it's located behind the fuel filter if you put your hand on it you should also feel it vibrate. When ignitions turned off it should carry on for 2 or 3 minutes then stop. Now the heater is firring up next time from cold start engine and let the heater warm the engine up, if the heater runs continuously with the "jet sound" without slowing down or shutting down up to normal temp 90deg ish, pumps OK, if it shuts down or slows down after about 30 seconds then the coolant is not circulating, ie pump not working or some other blockage. ps, when you say pipes are cold are you referring to the coolant pipes clipped to the floor or the air/exhaust pipe?

Hi there Saint Billy Welcome to the forum, how bad is the leak? may be worth just topping up and trying it before spending money on a new cover. If by chance it's OK then get new cover.

Hi BJ The earth terminal is behind the rear view mirror the + terminals are under the plastic trims under wiper blades.

Howdy Welcome to the site, all the petrol/gas engines in the Galaxy range have timing chains, it's only the diesel versions that have belts. :blink:

Hi there Both wires are black

Hi Taliska Go to the FAQ's in technical section click on number 1, then go straight to page 6 then scroll down to thread 81 onwards, there's good clear pictures and instructions from Ivor on removing heater unit to change glow plug.

Goodness Mark how big are your hands I have a job getting one hand in that gap by the heater!! :P by the way I did send you my email address have you received it?

Hi Smitch Sorry to say I told you so regarding dealers, very few have a clue on these vehicles. You said in an earlier post that you thought the heater had fired after freezing the sensor with the peas, but only minimal heat from exhaust. That would say to me the glow plug is getting hot but no fuel being pumped but not necessarily the fault of the pump itself as its controlled from the heater control unit which is part of the heater, there's been a few cases lately where the control units failed on the later MK2 heaters. As Mirez said you really need Vag-Com on there and see what thats showing up. You could check it yourself by getting a Vag-Com lead (ebay) and free software + laptop, or ask someone local, or if your really desperate you could pop down to Kent and I'll check it for you. :P

Hi there I take it you are talking about changing a manual control to climate control, thats very adventurous :P I think it would be far easier to change the car :P

Hi Jimmy Welcome to the Galaxy site, good english by the way.

Hi Unplugging the MAP sensor lead on the air charge pipe from intercooler to EGR valve will disable turbo, under normal conditions.

Hi Zorgman Thats the spirit :18: I like to see someone with initiative. There are a few places on ebay where you can get most of the popular spares, my experience with Ebersp

Hi there The main power fuse for windows and central locking is located above the normal fuse box and relays, will probably require removal of the pull down trim panel to access. If it has blown you will probably need to strip the drivers door trunking for closer examination

Hi again Could be worth checking with Vag-Com may have generated a fault code?

Hi again Interesting did you put the sensor in the bag of frozen peas or just on the outside :18: joking aside there is no link between the auxiliary heater air temperature sensor and the outside air temperature for the display on the dash this is located behind the lower edge of front bumper so allowances must be made when using the dash gauge as a reference for the heater sensor. Also a point to note is that after a run when everything has fully warmed up if the car is switched off then restarted say 20 minutes later the heater will not fire straight away because the heat from the stationary engine has heated the area where the sensor's located (wiper linkage) even when temperature's around freezing, it will need a good blast of cold air around the sensor before it fires up again :) PS, how much dealers rushing you for the exhaust?

Hi Paul Sounds like a fuel supply problem, fuel pump relay perhaps (109)

Hi there Don't beleive everything the dealers tell you, this is a simple task to bridge the sensor. If then the heater doesn't fire for what ever reason that will generate a fault code. Im not aware of the sensor leaving a fault code, if it is open curcuit the heater will still think it's summer time. And definatly doesn't leave one if permanantly bridged.

Hi there The outside air temperature sensor which allows the starting of the heater is a simple make & break switch at 10 deg approx, if they did just bridge the terminals on the plug to the sensor and the heater worked OK, it may just be a simple job of changing the sensor. Try bridging the sensor yourself (located on wiper linkage) remove plug from sensor then bridge the too wires in the plug, the heater should start a few seconds after starting engine if there are no other problems. If it doesn't start you will need the assistance of a Vag-Com lead and laptop to interrogate the controller.

Hi there Will need to know which model,year,engine you have as they operate differently.

Hi there There's no reason to suspect the D5-ZF is that much different to the D5-WZ in respect of the upper and lower voltage cut off, iirc 10.something volts for the lower limit, that may safeguard the heater but you will be unable to start the car. Good Luck for the weekend :) Mark (Mirez) did you sort out that Vag-Com list for me? cheers Chris

Hi there The bottom hose carries the cooled water back to the engine from the radiator, so even at normal operating temperature it will be barely warm, this is assuming everything is running correctly ie, water pump, radiator.

Ah Zippy memories memories :(

Oh dear that don't sound good the brown colour could be endless amounts of radweld or the outcome of running with no coolant/antifreeze, or has boiled up at some point and loosened up sediment laying in the cooling system. You need to get off as many hoses as you can and ideally remove thermostat housing and flush out with a hose or careful use of pressure washer. When your done clear water is all you should see. Following the procedure in my previous post ie removing hose 16 etc will expel any air in the heater although this shouldn't be necessary if the matrix is clear

Hi there Have you just bought the car or has this occurred over time. In all your posts you have never mentioned about any overheating or water loss, as that is the engine water pumps function to circulate water around the engine and radiator and also through the heater matrix, if all pipes are hot after a run and no signs of overheating I would say the engine pump is working. I think what you need to establish is the water actually flowing through the heater matrix. On the diagram I sent you, you will see flow and return pipes no.11 & 16 you need to remove 16 from the electric run on pump, plug or hold finger on pump inlet, get an assistant to top up water bottle and than start engine, water should then be pumped from the hose you disconnected. If nothing comes out remove hose 11 and connect a garden hose and turn on slowly, you should be able to send clean water through matrix, if nothing comes through matrix is blocked. The purpose of the run on pump on your car is to prevent hot spots when engine is turned off the pump continues to run for a few minutes then switches off. What was the condition of the water which you drained out, ie was it rusty, just clear water, or water with coolant/antifreeze. As for the small trickle on the water bottle return pipe that is correct.