chrispb123456

New discs fitted front and back 1.5K miles ago. All calipers floating freely and plenty of copper grease in the right places. I'm not even getting 40mpg anymore! Torq I think your expecting to much, 20+ years ago 40MPG would have been thought exceptional for the size and weight of vehicle, these days this is pretty average though you will notice an increase when the weather is warmer, don't compare you previous vehicle with galaxy there's no comparison.

Just to add faulty ABS is an MOT failure, regardless of the condition of the braking system, disconnecting the light is not an option either as the light needs to illuminate briefly when ignition is switched on.

Hi Alex Don't no what you have had done to the brakes or when the problem of the light staying on first occurred. Your problem may be broken reluctor ring(s) on driveshaft(s) they rust through split then fall off, these rings in association with the wheel sensors send signals to the abs ecu, of course it may be a faulty sensor or lead which would normally show up on vag-com. The light is normally reset automatically when driving above 10 MPH for a short distance providing there's no faults

Hi there Iirc it's easier to remove the slide and seat togerther then turn seat upside down to work on, remove slide from seat.

Hi Dave Vag-Com may help pin point your problem

Well done BJ especially braving the cold it's bloody freezing out there. :rolleyes:

Hi there 3 wires go to the motor green/black, black/yellow, brown is earth

One like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6

Hi Min After the 5-10 minutes running at full speed when the heater quietened down was the engine up to the 90 deg on the gauge as that sounds rather quick from cold to be shutting down in the low temps we've had. All that said your pump may be in the intermittant stage of working they usually fail between 85 to 100,000 miles Keep a listen out for the pump running every time you use the car over the next few days. Fuse 12 is only for the booster heater.

Hi there The gearbox inhibitor switch is under the console/gearlever it may just require adjustment or a new switch. As for the sluggish gear change it may well benefit from a fluid filter change, :rolleyes: filter change requires removal of gearbox sump, pretty straightforward on the AG4 transmission unfortunately you are not able to remove all the fluid as the torque converter and valve chest amount to a third of the capacity, so the only diy way is to do three fluid changes and one filter change, in other words change it drive it change it etc you will also need the use of Vag-Com as the temperature of the fluid needs to be between 35 and 45 deg.c when checking level. Full instructions on how to do this can be found in the FAQ's in the technical section. However this is a try it and see, it worked for me but you may have an internal fault what is causing your problem so you may need the help of a local transmission repair garage and a big wallet :31:

Hi Again You could remove fuse number 12 that will disable heater till you can check out the pump

Hi there Mikeyb and welcome to the forum Can we have your vehicle year model engine etc, as the fuse numbers vary

Hi again Intermittent stopping and starting of the heater is usually caused by the coolant run on pump not working, this causes the heater to reach a very high temperature very quickly 5 successive overheats will cause the heater to be locked out and will need fault codes cleared before it will run again. The run on pump is located behind the fuel filter on the bulkhead behind engine, will require removal of bulkhead extension (scuttle plate) to access it. The pump should run all the time ignition is on or engine running regardless of engine temperature or outside air temperature and will continue to run 2/3 minutes after engines turned off. Try just turning ignition key on without starting engine, you should hear a humming from the pump, + vibration if touched. If you are mechanically competent they can be repaired usually just requiring new brushes (Instructions in FAQ section) if not

Hi there Is the booster heater working normally, loud roaring sound after a few minutes of engine running? and no visible smoke from heater exhaust. If above is normal are you doing an excess of short start stop journeys lately, ideally the booster heater needs to run at least half an hour to burn off deposits, short journeys lead to sooty oily deposits in the heater unit and exhaust. The air intake to the heater is via the n/s chassis member so any wet oily deposits left in the heater unit could find there way into the chassis member and into the car when the heater/car engine is switched off.

Hi where did you order the plug from and how much. The plug i fitted at the start of the year has failed.No aux heater during this cold snap. I am trying to find out the number for the newer glow plug but i am not sure with one it is. I have a 2002 galaxy and fitted a GH001 last time but didnt last a year. Anyone knoe the correct number for my heater. Cheers Hi the updated glow plug for your year is Beru. 0100,226,340 which replaced 0100,226,228 although it was mentioned on here that you can fit a glow pin with wires attached which means adapting wiring on internal plug

Dual K line is for certain Audi models, Galaxy etc use OBD2 so as long as its OBD2 compliant it will work, if the lead doesn't come with software don't worry you can download it free from ross-tech. (VCDS lite for third party interface)

First of all check coolant level? has the level gone down? there have been instances where water pumps have failed but you would surely be overheating if doing motorway driving. The cooling system is self bleeding providing water pump and run on pump are working correctly. Is the booster heater still working or is that dead?

Hi there That cable will be fine, you will need to download the free VCDS lite software from Ross-Tech. KKL = Dual K line

Here it is about 5mm x 10mm x2mm plastic block

Hi there Pipes and welcome to the forum Am going to assume your talking about the booster heater under the n/s/r passenger door area. One of the most common faults is the glow plug which will require lowering down the heater to remove the end cover/control module to access the glow plug this can be done without complete removal from vehicle, glow plugs are not the only cause of non running heaters, overheating and flame out errors are also common and will lockout the heater until cleared and you will require the assistance of Vag-Com to pin point the fault and clear any fault codes that may be present.

Hi George Are you sure the noise is not coming from inside the climate control panel as there is a small fan inside it, as for the fault code had you run the heating with the blower disconnected while you were installing your kit as that will have registered a fault. Assuming it's all working OK now hadn't seen you on here for a while

Hi Dave They are over

Was wondering about the cracked casing, was it down to something breaking up inside the box and trying to force its way out, or simply had impact from outside?