chrispb123456

There are live connections either side, plugs under side window vents and the earth at the top behind interior lamp console.

Just think how lucky you/he was not trying it on the MK 2 diesel, end of the day once you have cleared system of the crap you should have no problems. Filling the new filter with clean fuel will help as there's no hand primer, and you will have to rely on the starter cranking it to bleed the pump personally I use and old lift pump with a hand primer to vent the filter and pump, whatever way you do it finish by cracking open the injector pipes then crank over a few times that will bleed injectors tighten up pipes and away you go :) don't do it again :wacko:

Hi John Hate to say this mate but I think your only putting off the inevitable, the more it overheats the more chance you have of major damage like a cracked head or even seizing up completly, don't waste your money on K seal get a radflush instead for after the head gaskets done, hopefully thats all it is.

Hi, yes, I'm sure about COM port match. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to connect to some Controllers. I will try using VAG-COM 311.2, as some report such problems get fixed with it. Dunno what else to try... Maybe another laptop? Hi Andy I must be honest I had similar problem when I first had mine, I wanted to connect to auto transmission to check oil temperature. Tried uninstalling then reinstalling vagcom software but made no difference. I ended up putting the recovery disc in the laptop and reloading everything it then worked OK first time. Have since had to reboot laptop for other reasons and recently started using VCDS lite and on the Ross-Tech web site they tell you to reduce the latency from 16 (default) down to 3. What modules can you connect to? you cant use the autoscan unless it's the full version, you will have to try each one seperatly and there will be a lot that are not relevent to your car depending on spec

The idle control valve is mounted on the intake manifold you will need to disconnect injector multi plugs,then remove the two bolts and the plug to remove the valve. You really need to clean it with a decarboniser not WD40. Also check all vacuum hoses for splits and perishing as this will cause a high idle speed

Welcome to the forum LZDEN

Instructions with pics. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=15713&view=findpost&p=134948

Hi and welcome to the forum. Several things can cause the squealing noises and vibration on steering. Alternator clutch pulley slipping or seized Auxiliary belt and tensioner Low fluid level in power steering Power steering pump bolts loose.

Hi Jim Try driving with the MAF sensor not connected, see whether it's worse. If it's the same it's probably had it, MAF don't always show up a fault code on Vagcom.

i had the same problem i checked fuses all ok and i read this and checked my switch which was stuck so i sprayed wd40 on it and they are working again well for now anyway so if i was you check your switch to see if its sticking Hi and welcome to the forum Brake lights could be another faulty or incorrectly adjusted switch, as for the other lights check the wiring for breaks/chaffing and shorting in the rubber trunking from the body to the tailgate (common fault)

Its very unusual to have to/need adjust cable are you sure brake caliper sliders are not seized, also whats the condition of the pads.

Have you looked around the starter wiring & earth straps, try energising the solenoid lead on the starter with a wire straight from the battery or the large + cable on the starter just to ensure starter is not dead.

Check out Switch and stalk if bulbs and multiplugs are ok

Hi Andy You shouldn't have to alter any settings apart from latency down to 3 are you sure the COM port number on vagcom options screen matches the COM ports in device manager

Maybe starter inhibitor switch have you tried moving through the gears while holding key in start position, that sounds correct with the light. There's usually a problem when light flashes fast.

There's no relay for leveling I would now look at the headlamp multiplugs and earth points in that area.

If your sure the scuttle drains are clear? this can cause rainwater to flood the heater air intake/pollen filter, try directing your hose around the windscreen it's not uncommon for the bonding to become detached from the screen.

Do you have a sun roof? if so check drain tubes are not blocked or disconnected.

If you're talking about the plastic T piece (Mk 1 Tdi) I cant see any arrow on mine but would have thought the arrow points to the fuel tank at the back. This is the return line from the fuel pump, the T piece is a thermally controlled valve that allows some fuel back into the filter when hot. You shouldnt have bothered taking off those pipes as the T piece just lifts out and can sit to one side. Making work for yourself! Yep can confirm arrow points toward tank.

No Auto Transmission, Engine immobilisation

Hi there Have you tried using another key? if you have one.

May be the coolant run on pump you can hear, remove and check fuse 25 if it's OK make sure there is power at that fuse holder Just to add I actually done my soldering with a blow lamp, but wouldn't advise it unless your really confident and take precautions ie. fire extinguisher or bucket of water handy, and of course battery removed from car.

Depending on what year you got the module could be under passenger seat, make sure it's not wet under there. Door trunking wiring needs to be checked on drivers door first, then possibly the rear door. Why not put all your vehicle details in your signature then you wont have to remember to write it every time :)

May be the coolant run on pump you can hear, remove and check fuse 25 if it's OK make sure there is power at that fuse holder

I've got fuse 58 down for headlight levelling