chrispb123456

110Bhp is AFN

Hi George Looking in with interest on the problem your having, would it not be worth doing a temporary rig up without going through the time and expense of cutting holes in floor to see if that cures problem. How often due you run heater without running engine? and has it your battery down your unable to start engine. Chris

As it's a MK1 then it should be either AHU, AFN, ANU

Hi there Vag-Com is what you need for the galaxy, look on ebay for one of these. you then use it with a laptop http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6 ps I was looking at your other post do you have a MK1 or 2 and what engine code?

Check the Ross-Tech Wiki, it may give you some clues to your problems. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/

Hi SpikeyJimbo and welcome to the forum The run on pump not working can cause the heater to cycle on and off and can eventually lock out and will need codes clearing in the Aux Heater controller, the pump usually requires new brushes round about 80 to 90,000 mls if your confident there are step by step instructions on here, if not euro car parts can supply new pump. Now for the heater itself, common fault is the glow plug this will require lowering the heater down, instruction also in FAQ section. Glow plugs available from AVS car parts http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=3623&view=findpost&p=33255 It's a good idea to have your own Vag-Com lead with these vehicles if you haven't got one already, it can save you a lot of time and money checking and reading your own codes

Hi again Look at fuses 23 for mirrors and 19 for jets although 19 covers several items, if there OK you will need to check for current at the jets, if there is current present and a good earth then jets are U/S Heated mirrors if fuse is OK check for current on back of mirror glass with heated rear screen on, if current and good earth present then mirror glass element faulty, if no supply may be broken wiring in drivers door trunking.

Vehicle details please, and are you talking about the heated washer jets or actual washers not working.

i read that to, supprising that the main water pump (same as vw golf) has the umf to circualate that far. Must be then that the MK1's engines 90 & 110 had a better designed engine water pump than the MK2, that had problems with impeller breaking off and not being powerfull enough to circulate through booster and rear cabin heater, thus requiring help from electric pump. I know the TIS manual has been wrong before, perhaps only a few cars were fitted with the run on pump by the booster heater.

Havn't actually worked on a MK1 but the TIS manual shows the pump next to the booster heater under the car, can anyone confirm that.

Hi Andinali and welcome to the forum Other members have had this problem, try fuse 33 it's not indicated as being for wipers but has been found to be blown and when replaced wipers work.

Here is the resistor pack (green) LHD picture

Hi and welcome to the forum Yes the series resistor (hedgehog) is adjacent to the blower fan usualy coloured red or green and behind the glove box, fuses for blower are 19,22,33 the blower relay is above the blower fan.

As you may have read these engines create very little waste heat thats why they rely on the booster heater for quicker warm up, when the impeller falls off you wont get any pumped circulation and then overheating when engine under pressure on a motorway. You will also probably find that your electric run on pump has packed up as well this will need to be checked when you decide to sort out the booster heater as that will not run correctly without it. There's not a haynes manual for the MK2 but there are CD's usually on Ebay that will work on an XP computer

Hi and welcome to the forum As has been suggested by Adie water pump impeller has fell off. Advise changing cam belt and tensioner and water pump as it's all got to come off to do the pump.

I think that this sounds good Dave-G only I couldn't see anything when I took the plastic trim from the middle bottom of the dash. All was dry and no sign of any pipe. The pipe that has been suggested behind the engine I have found and put a tyre compresser on it but no water came out. Do you think that this pipe is a little high to be a drain I would assosiate a drain pipe being lower down. All usual culprits have been checked for blockages but as said I have been getting water during a 2 week period with no rain. I know that all areas need to be checked but i am convinced this problem is to do with the aircon. There was suggested that a badly fitted pollen filter can block the pipe does the pollen filter come into contact with this pipe. Thanks in advance for all the probabilities keep them coming I will get to the bottom of this and solve so many other questions assosiated with water in the drivers footwell. Hi there Just like to make a bit clearer what I suggested about badly fitting pollen filter, if the filter at some point hadn't been refitted properly leaves dirt and debris will find it's way down the air intake, blocking the drain tube from inside. Also been suggested about the drains either side if they get blocked with the same the plenum chamber can flood with rain water, that water then flows through the pollen filter into the heater and onto the floor/carpet. You said you only noticed this after using aircon but to be honest I think your aircon unit would have a problem creating any significant condensed water with the air temperatures we've had the last few weeks as aircon system even in A1 condition is virtually ineffective below 2-3 deg, it's only in warm summer temperatures you will get an amount water dripping from the drain. Is it possible this wetness could have been building up over a few months? it's not unknown for a badly bonded windscreen to leak water in, it can run down the bulkhead inside the car and run underneath the carpet soaking into the sound deadening then up into the carpet. Also on here recently another member noticed on removing the plastic wheel arch liners that there was a hole where the metal had rotted away allowing water to seep in

You will need to get the door open to access, you will probably have to get the door card off to access the lock, have heard you can do this but would think quite fiddly.

Hi and welcome to the forum The most likely cause is broken/chaffed or even shorting wiring in the trunking between drivers door and door pillar (common fault) you can look in the technical section FAQ's for instructions with pictures on how to access and repair

Hi Mike Out of interest what tyres you got on yours, as am due for some soon. Chris

No I'm not saying they will be completely soot free you will always get black fingers, don,t compare diesel glow plugs with spark plugs from a petrol engine there's no comparison

When the plugs are working that burns off most of the soot, some people are under the impression that glow plugs are only for cold starting wrong, they also play a part in reducing emissions and help engine run smoothly when cold, the plugs are still on even when the light on dash has gone out anything up to a few minutes depending on temperature.

Have a check on the pollen filter may have not been changed recently

Hi and welcome to the forum As you have the ghia will assume you have auto climate control, in the auto control air distribution is controlled automatically by sensors in the car, if you want maximum airflow to either screen,floor, or vents you can select them yourself. Windows steaming up this time of year will be compounded by aircon not working, this is assuming all the air doors in the heater unit are working correctly, heater blower speed is controlled by sensor commonly called the hedgehog. Vag-Com may help you pin point any faults present on your system.