chrispb123456

The MK2 Ghia models have heated front washer jets not sure about other models.

Hi Mandyb and welcome to the forum. Oh dear something tells me you have a wet passenger footwell? Remove the trim along edge of passenger door opening (2 or 3 screws iirc) lift sodden wet carpet and sound deadening material look at the bunch of wires running along the edge, you should see a black plastic tube that has a joint this can become separated in cold weather due to water freezing, windscreen washer water bottle emptied itself in the car. Push the joint back together you should hear it click then place a small cable tie around it tight that will stop it coming off again

Hi there I have not driven the new galaxy's but just reading the write up about it. It sounds like the automated manual gearbox in my truck, they call them automatic but there nothing like the automatic transmissions we are used to. This is how I get around the delay. As you slow down to approach the roundabout with the car still rolling just dab the throttle and accelerate gently, if you accelerrate to hard the car will hesitate while it decides which gear its going to select and because it thinks you want full power will drop 2 gears instead of just 1. Try it and see it that helps you

Brushes are not easily available its common practice to rob brushes from a small motor and file then down to fit, or maybe a starter/alternator repair shop may have some to fit. Can be a bit fiddly to do but if you have the time you can save yourself a few quid, or if you want a quick fix, GSF and Europarts are cheaper than the dealers, iirc about

Hi Jim Personally I would say you wont have no problem as your not doing high mileage, but there will be other members that would probably say otherwise.

If you have the free vagcom then I dont think you can start the fan on the aux heater with it. The fan will try to run as soon as the heater gets the signal to run. Look on ebay as people have heater parts for sale. 01135 interior monitoring sensors 35-10 intermittent is for the alarm sensors but dont know the other. Best to just sort out one thing at a time. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes Is where i found out what some of the fault codes are. Like people say just make a note of the codes and then clear them. Sometimes it is just a glitch and the wont come back. 01189 Air distribution flap is located on the front main heater unit and controls the direction of the air to the screen, footwells, and face vents, but as bill said don't worry with that yet.

Hi Jim Your right it should be 5w/40 fully synthetic for PD engines (Pump Deuse) using the wrong spec oil may cause premature camshaft lobe wear.

Hi Jim Until boosters running gauge will drop when fans switched on as engine cant produce enough heat, there is another multi plug inside the heater which may be the problem with open circuit or the motor may be knackered if you need a motor let me know I have some s/hand bits here. Be prepared for the small torx headed bolts to be tight the heads round off very easily, give them a good soaking in penetrating oil first. None of the other codes will stop booster running, as you don't have a glow plug error it may be OK but check it out when it's out.

Thank you for the link to ebay one is on it's way, well i spoke to soon listened this morning to the electric pump and it's running very very slowly is this dying and needs replacing or brushes like you said, is this going to afect engine running or cause engine trouble? In regards to the aux heater the cambelt is being replaced so that's being sorted first then i think firstly on my list is the heater glow plug then sort the pump out, vagcom, then see if it fires, is there anything else that i'm missing? regards paul Hi Paul To answer your questions 1. Is it dying there is usually a distinct hum from the pump when working OK. 2.Will it affect engine? in the short term no but its there also to keep the coolant circulating through engine to stop hot spots as well as circulating rear compartment and booster heater. When you drop the heater down to do the glow plug carefully check the multi plug for corrosion where wiring enters plug, as this could cause problems in the future.

Hi Check resistor pack (adjacent to heater motor) check wiring connections but you will probably need a new one IF this is a MK2 then the electric coolant pump (run on pump) has packed up

Hi Jimbo I think you have established that someone has been playing about with your heater, I wonder what other surprises are in store. It may just be the fan is stuck/corroded in the housing to check this you will have to drop the heater down now to remove the smaller plastic cover this will reveal the plastic fan, see if it spins freely and is not fouling the plastic cover. If it looks OK clear faults and get someone to start car while you observe fan it should spin up seconds after starting engine assuming outside air temp is below 10 deg c if it still don't work you will need to remove the control unit/end cover to gain access to the fan motor. You wont get any flame out errors until the heater has fired up and then stopped unexpectedly.

Are you sure the plastic cover is not fouling the fan as the plastic cover sometimes gets distorted, before you strip it down again try running it with the cover off.

Hi Jay Easiest way if it's just the red wire is to bypass the plug, ie, cut both red leads off the plugs, and using a suitable length of wire join the two wires together outside the multi connector using a suitable insulated connector.

If you have been losing that much coolant and still using car you will be compromising your head gasket albeit now or in time, even though it may not have overheated on the gauge hot spots on the cylinder head can cause premature gasket failure or even worse cracked cylinder head. Cooling system is self bleeding, fill to maximum mark run engine on tick over until at normal operating temperature 90 deg revving engine a few times during this period, top up the level replace cap, take car for a run 5 miles approx then re check level when cool.

Hi Electric coolant pump is located on the bulkhead behind fuel filter you will need to remove bulkhead (scuttle plate) held by 3 bolts to gain access, when the pump packs up it causes the booster heater to cycle up and down and can cause it to overheat, 5 successive overheats or 5 flameouts will cause it to lock out then you will need to clear the faults. Flame outs can also be caused by fuel starvation ie, low fuel level in tank especially if facing downhill

Hi Assuming you have MK2 1.9TDI The alternator pulley is the usual culprit, occasionally causing the battery charge light to flash on and can make the power steering feel a bit notchy, there's no adjustment on the belt tensioner so if it's lost tension replace the whole thing.

Links to suitable lead http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6 sounds like your run on pumps OK at the moment, there usually good for 80 to 100.000 mls then will need new brushes, or replacement pump.

This is an easy one don't open doors with engine running no beep <_<

Hi Paul Yes may have locked out due to flame errors, then you will need VagCom to clear fault codes. You may also want to check your electric coolant pump as this will affect the operation of the heater, although I think yor priority is your leaking water pump/cambelt.

Hi Jimbo you need to check both parts of the plugs, if your having trouble unplugging probably best to drop it down as it will make it easier, someones obviously been there before as there's no tape on the plugs normally. If the wiring looks intact when you able to see both parts clearly you may want to check there is 12 volt present on the red cable going to the heater. If you do have voltage there then we need to look elsewhere but lets confirm the 12 volt presence first.

Hi Paul As your getting smoke from the exhaust it sounds like it's in the process of starting up! So your next move, if your car is a MK 1 just follow instructions on here for changing glow plug. If you have a MK2 you could do the same or with the aid of VagCom interogate the heater first. Help is in the FAQ's of the technical section. As your car is right on the change year decide which yours is, and it's helpful to quote that when posting

Hi Jimbo Yes that is what I mean but it may be easier for you to unbolt the heater bracket and drop it down leaving the water and fuel pipes connected. The easy fix. Check the two half's of the plug, the red wire is the one that usually breaks/corrodes, the easy fix is to bypass the plug, you will need to extend one cable with a piece of similar size cable with a suitable plug connector. Obviously thats not the proper way to repair it as you need to disassemble the plugs and remove old pins to solder on new ones