chrispb123456

Hi Rob and welcome to the forum Can we have some vehicle details first, Year, MK1 or 2 Engine code, Manual or Auto.

Hi there 1.Remove auxiliary drive belt 2.remove o/s headlamp assembly 3.Remove generator connectors and wiring harness bracket 4.Remove headlamp shield retaining bolt 5.Loosen the front r/h bumper retaining bolt 6.Remove generator upper and lower bolt then carefully pull the headlamp shield away from the bumper, then remove generator

Well done!! :)

Hi Paul Could be bolt sheared or fell out on selectors usually falls into bottom of gearbox.

Hi Paul Could be bolt sheared or fell out on selectors usually falls into bottom of gearboxhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

Hi Tony T Welcome to the forum MPG has always been a bone of contention so many factors can affect MPG. Some examples that will reduce MPG are; 1. Tyre condition and pressures 2. Brakes binding 3. Mechanical condition/regularly serviced 4. Driving style 5. Road/weather conditions MPG between 40 & 45 are achievable with careful but sometimes unrealistic (not normal) driving, I've had mine 7 years now and it always does better in the summer months. I would say what your getting (36 to 38) should be easily achievable on a long run, but you would need to really read the road, light throttle and then foot off throttle going down hill to get near 50+

yes it wll

Central fuse box. Whats the problem with car?

Hi there I think we're a little confused here is it a gearbox sump or an engine sump? your talking about.

Hi and welcome to the forum, there are two types of plug fitted to the D5WZ heater the Beru GH001, 0100.228.340 this primarily fits the earlier MK2, it's cheapest from AVS car parts online. The later ceramic plug which is probably the one you need with the wires attached this is more expensive and are available on ebay from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Diesel-Heaters-Spares?_rdc=1 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heater-Parts-Direct?_rdc=1 I don't have the part number for these but if you email either of these they will advise. Of course they are available from dealers for more dosh.

hi Autumn Welcome to the forum, all the petrol engines are chain there's no service interval for this if it's quiet leave it alone, if it's starting to rattle change it.

Can you hear that fuel squelch noise when you turn ignition on, thats usually the sound the electric fuel pump makes.

Hi Jim Lift off the plastic engine cover and the foam sound absorbent on the cylinder head. You will then see the four plugs facing you, just pull off the bus bar type connector this can be tight sometimes you will need a deep socket to fit plugs, advise unscrew plugs with warm engine

Has been mentioned before, was the timing correct before removal of injector pump? And of course correct on replacing timing belt?

Hi Jim Does it need topping up frequently between services? A little bit of smoke is nothing to worry about when starting could even be down to faulty engine glow plug(s), if it smokes continually when warmed up then you have problems, also never overfill with oil try and stay within the high and low mark.

Yes it doesn't take much to either shear or round the heads off the screws, the pump is just a simple solenoid pump but the dosage is controlled by the heater module, the combustion fan pulls in fresh air to burn in the combustion chamber if this is restricted due to build up of soot then it just chocks itself. You will find it's probably logged flame errors now and locked out

Well done for changing glow plug. As said heater probably flooded from earlier attempts to start, I know it can be awkward but try to avoid short start stop trips as this cokes the plug causing it to fail prematurely. You may get a small puff of smoke when heater fires up and shuts down but should be clear all other times.

This is it and it's located behind the fuel filter

Hi and welcome to the forum As already said clutch dragging for whatever reason, Are you sure the noise is from the engine and not the transmission? noises when on/off accelerator can be associated with worn differential/transmission bearings. You may need to remove transmission to cure your clutch problem so this would be a good time to get another gearbox/transmission fitted. It will need a trained ear to confirm this, get some second opinions in case it's not

There's nothing wrong with Aux heaters!! when there working OK :P

Are you sure about the voltage reading you are getting, over 16 volt is extremely high for a 12 volt system as already said 14.8 max when engine running. You will be running the risk of damage to electrical components with continued use Have you checked it with another meter to double check, if the meter is correct then the alternator regulator is the likely culprit

Have you removed the belt and run engine to confirm it's from the auxiliary drive