chrispb123456

Here's the reply I received from Haynes. Hi Chris This manual has been temporarily withdrawn due to a technical error. Once rectified it will be available again. Apologies for any inconvenience caused. Regards Bruce TBS on behalf of Haynes Publishing

Check for bulges/damage on all tyres this can give a thudding noise that increases with speed, wheel bearings can also give whining/droning sound

The intank supplies the tandem pump not the auxiliary/booster heater the latter is completely separate pump mounted in front of the fuel tank adjacent to the inner sill. If you cannot hear the pump momentarily when you switch on the ignition (squelch noise) then it's not working. The intank pump keeps the low pressure lines and filter primed continually the tandem mechanical pump supplies the high pressure fuel to injectors and has a separate chamber for supplying vacuum to servo and the small vacuum lines for turbo control (N75) EGR control and manifold flap control.

A long thin flat blade screwdriver at either end but go in from under the facia by the pedals, once it's off throw it as far as you can

The alarm horn is on the bulkhead behind the wiper linkage.

Looks like you done all the beating round the bush, getting the head off is your next step.

Possibly a relay 109 fault, they suffer with poor solder joints.

You have combustion pressure in your cooling system. In a car running normally the rise in pressure as the engine gets hot would return to zero when cold, you have combustion gases trapped in the system until you release the cap or is released through the valve in the pressure cap if the pressure present is higher than the blow of setting of the cap. Cooling fans are not required above speeds of approximately 40MPH the ram effect will be sufficient to keep the engine a normal operating temperature. The fans will normally be running on first speed all the time aircon is on anyway providing aircon is actually working also for the fans to operate by way of the coolant sensor in the radiator there needs to be coolant in contact with it which may not be the case if there are quantities of air/combustion gas trapped in the system. Running a car with alloy head and no anti freeze coolant additive only makes things worse as corrosion sets in and eats away at alloy parts.

If there's evidence of coolant around the battery area then it's most likely being blown out the cap under pressure. Is there any signs of excess pressure? 1.Is the system still under pressure when cold 2.fluctuating coolant level 3. Heater keeps going cold 4 With cap off does coolant spew over while engines running any of these can be attributed to head gasket failure.

The nearest I've found is from here http://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Ford/Ford-S_Max-Workshop-Repair-And-Service-Manual.html

You need to cut the cup washer away enough so it passes through the inner wing panel, use a small angle grinder for this. Once the strut is off either split the nut with a chisel or grind the nut away being careful not to damage the thread. PS still looking good for a 96 car :)

Go to Ford Etis. Click on vehicle lookup Put in your reg number Under where it says vehicle summary click on Generate a Ford service Schedule then continue Then either click print or preview Cambelt is near the bottom of list

Sphere shaped vacuum reservoir has a single pipe behind alternator

What have you put grease on? the moving parts E.G. unison ring and nozzle levers should be clean and dry, any grease or oil mixed with soot will aid premature sticking.

A good place to start is replace relay 109 in the third layer of the fuse box, this is the power supply to engine ECU and injectors, these relays do suffer from poor solder joints and can cause poor running and starting issues Use the instructions below to access the relays http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/&do=findComment&comment=68423

You need to get the under cover off and check turbo outlet and intercooler you can't see these from above. Why didn't you clean the turbo vanes while you had the head off?

You said in this post the display flashes for a few seconds and then in a later post it is not flashing. As already stated if the display is or has flashed a code will be logged and will remain logged until cleared.

Most likely cause is overboost caused by sticking turbo vanes, will be confirmed by scanning diagnostic system.

Yep Mk2 TDI's ECU is behind battery only MK1 TDI's are behind dash

The main relief valve will be in the pump and probably a bypass in the filter housing. The oil pump is driven from the auxiliary shaft which also drives the vacuum pump if you have total failure I think I would be looking at the drive to the pump and the pump itself.

The bulb and holder are all one item VW number 7M0919040C

The idea of the heater is to get the engine up to normal operating temperature as quickly as possible and allow warm/hot air from the heater units in the car. Due to the size of the cooling/heating system and these efficient engines producing little heat they need the help of the booster heater to achieve this. Replacing the thermo switch with your own switch wired inside the car is a good idea and has been done by members and stops the heater firing up for short journeys which is not good for these heaters. Fuse 12 is the one to remove to disable the booster.

Have you checked fuse 60 and power at the fuse box.

Have you checked for 12 volts at the clock to confirm a supply fault?

The four and five speed auto has filters but only the four speed is possible to change after removing sump, the filter on the five speed is buried and requires dismantling to remove