chrispb123456

Hi Jim cant help with the part number but I would imagine it's not a sort after part thats why it's special order. It does say 3.5mm for the hose so if you have 3mm it should be a tight fit. Relay 109 is the power relay found in layer 3 in central junction box.

That's tempting fate :lol: any day now your display will start flashing!! :rolleyes:

Hi Jim As you had a new N75 may just worth double checking that the pipes are fitted in the correct order using the pic. Be wary of the cheap MAF's on ebay I ended up with mine being worse than the original.

Hi Jim I would say at some point in the operation of the three valves at some point are open to atmosphere if it is blocked it may restrict the operation of the valves and makes sense could lead to poor performance. I must admit mines never been changed, I had my air filter box off two weeks ago to replace aircon pipes and noticed it still looks like new after nine years, an explanation could be that one of the valves is drawing air from atmosphere constantly. I'm not 100% sure on the cycle of all those valves with regard to when they draw on atmosphere but the N75 has been known to cause problems albeit not that often.

Hi jim If you look at the charge pressure hose diagram I sent you, you will see the filter marked number 2 it's part of the N75 valve curcuit.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I would carefully check engine/gearbox wiring harness for breaks/corrosion at joints/connectors, I'm guessing you have the 2.3 petrol engine unfortunately Vagcom does not work with the Ford engines (2.0 & 2.3 are Ford)

All sensors will affect performance in some way ie, loss of power going into limp mode. If you have these problems you really need to have a scan done with VagCom to see if you have fault codes stored, this can give you more clues to your problem. There are parts of the engine controls that work on vacuum, you need to check these pipes carefully as they split and perish and may be a simple fix.

Idle control valve is located on top of inlet manifold its held on by two bolts and has a mutiplug connector.

Air intake temp sensor is in the air charge pipe from intercooler. Water temperature sensor can also affect engine performance, this is located under the above said pipe near top radiator hose.

Maybe aircon pump seizing up, try removing belt and turning all the pulleys check for roughness/tightness in alternator and aircon clutch pulley. If they feel OK refit belt and run engine with aircon switched off then see if pulley gets hot, if it don't then aircon pump is causing problem

ur a star lol, could we try 3 out of 3, do u know of a pick showing pipes going in to/ around the fuel pump (engine one). The prob is we've fitted a new engine but the car wont start, so just checking its piped up properly. could the oil sensor in the bottom of the sump stop this if its not there? Hi there You say you have the picture of the filter so looking at the tandem pump, the upper connection goes to the outlet on the filter thats the shiny pipe facing towards you, the lower connection is the return and has the blue writing on it and also has a fuel temperature sensor inline and goes to the plastic T connector on top of the filter. Not sure about the oil sensor not being connected whether that would affect starting, you could try PM'ing (Mirez) he will know for sure. Assuming engines turning over but not firing?

Hi Jim The inlet pipe to the filter from the tank is the right hand pipe that goes to the tank. The other pipe coming out the filter goes down to the tandem pump. The pipes attached to the plastic T connector on the filter are return pipes via cooler to the tank.

Hi Jim Most motor factors sell pipe/tubing on a roll, obviously vacuum pipe needs to be the same size and density so it doesn't collapse. Fuel pipe is also available on the roll, you may have to extend the length of the pipes to avoid kinking, or get the correct ones from dealer.

Hi Jim All the small vacuum hoses are just cut to fit from a length of pipe, remove them one at a time as you wont want to mix them up, although I did put a diagram of pipe layout on here The intercooler pipes and fuel pipes are shaped so will be main dealer, probably VW cheaper.

Hi there Be warned you cannot drain all the fluid when draining transmission as half of it remains in the converter and valve chest. I had virtually clean fluid after three changes, so you will need to drain and refill three times and drive the car in between changes. There are certain procedures for filling and checking level one of them being the fluid temperature when checking level must be between 35 to 45 deg, vagcom will need to be used for that. Do a search for more details as this varies slightly between 4 and 5 speed boxes. I have the 5 speed and I used Mercon V fully synthetic made by Comma oils about

Hi John Is yours a MK1 or 2 as iirc the map's on the ECU behind the dash on the MK1 and on the intercooler pipework on MK2

Maybe the impellor has fell off the water pump, apparently you can see/feel the impellor through the opening where the thermostat is fitted.

You got me watching aswell now :lol: Next!!

Hi there Cant confirm that relay number but there is a relay J380 in Elsawin for the tailgate lock, also present is the control unit J379 under passenger seat.

There will always be someone to better it and it certainly wont be me, I spend my working time restricted to 83 KPH or 52 MPH in my truck, so am not constantly seeing how good my MPG is. Just giving it some welly :) up to the legal limit naturally. On the point of comparing sat nav's with your speedo I have always found the sat nav to read slower than the car, about 2 MPH at 50 MPH

Since turk90210's reply, I have once again been investigating this problem. The water on the run on pump as shown in my previous pics has not re-occured so I'm presuming that was rainwater from the bonnet finding its own way. Last Friday morning I used a bottle of Radweld (the one that hopes to sort all leaks). I poured it in the expansion bottle, topped up with coolant and ran it for the prescribed time. Checked it, no apparent leaks. The Gal was used as usual for school and work trips that day and then a return trip to Warrington. So approx 70-80 miles covered. On it's return I checked under the bonnet. Level was as it had been but the battery tray was wet with coolant, and along the split line of the header tank and there was dripping underneath (along the chassis side rails). I started it up again, but switched the rear heater on, the level fell in the expansion tank. I decided to let it cool before I topped it up again. Next morning goes to top up, removes the cap with a release of pressure and gurgle and the level came back up again! It seems as though there is an airlock perhaps? Is there a bleed valve by any chance? The curious thing is that the temperature gauge never goes beyond the 90. Very puzzling! Phil In a cooling system running normally the pressure created by steam and expansion always reduces to zero when engine cools down, if you still have pressure/gas in the cooling system when removing cap when cold then combustion gas is being forced into cooling circuit this gas remains compressed to the caps preset setting, you may notice a small quantity of coolant around the battery tray area. Have you tried running engine with filler cap removed, get someone to rev engine at 2000 rpm while you observe level, if you see bubbles rising in the bottle or water starts spewing out the filler then you have a problem confirm this by having the test as chucks has suggested.

Hi there Thats the 90 BHP engine, have you done the basics eg, fuel filter, air filter. You don't have an intank pump on this model the fuel injection pump draws the fuel up so be certain to check all flexible hoses for tightness on pump and filter housing, also check for O rings missing from the plastic T connector on fuel filter, as air drawn in will cause starting and running problems

Hi there and welcome to the forum Relay 109 located in the third layer of the fuse box, this can cause intermittent starting problems

Hi Ernie Can you be more specific, 1.9TDI is not enough is it MK 1 or MK 2 engine code. AHU, AFN, ANU, AUY, ASZ, ARL which one?

Check with VagCom first may save you time and money on sensors, the flashing light is indicating a fault on the system.