insider

Depreciation is a fact of life and the first year from new is always the biggest drop so there's not much point complaining about it. However, in the current economic climate depreciation has been even more severe. New cars are having to be sold cheaper as less people have the means or are prepared to risk paying that amount of money out at this time. This means that your car is worth much less to a Dealer because they've got to sell that on at less than they would have 12 months ago too. With new car warranties at least 3 years now, changing your cars every 3~5 years would make more economic sense. No-one can tell you how to spend your money, that's your own personal decision. If you can afford a new one in 2~3 years time then well done for supporting the global car industry!

The reflectors within the headlamp units will be different between LHD and RHD headlamps, they cannot be adjusted.

The Mk2 Galaxy (and Alhambra and Sharan) is essentially a 14 year old car. Nothing has changed chassis-wise in all these years. Therefore, if budget tyres now are as good as premium tyres then, they are more than adequate for this car.

For the record my experience with and opinion on tyres for the Galaxy is: 1) Tyre wear is almost all due to how you drive it. I've had original premium Michelin tyres, mid-range Falken and currently budget Goodride (from China). I get about 12,000 miles out of a set of 4 whatever the make which I believe is due to my own driving style and the type of (mostly low mileage) journeys I do. 2) Performance is always subjective but I have to say that I have noticed no reduction in handling, noise, etc. by having the budget Goodride tyres. In fact I think they corner with more grip than the Falkens. This could be because they have an asymmetric tread pattern whereas the Falkens were directional. However, it could just be that I'm comparing newer tyres with the worn out Falkens, i.e. an unfair comparison. So to conclude I don't believe there is a significant advantage from premium brands in terms of performance on the Galaxy - it's certainly not a sports car after all! 3) Safety will always be the emotive persauding factor in buying a premium tyre instead of a budget one. However, unless there is clear factual evidence to support the fact that a premium tyre could have prevented or lessened the effect of an accident then I think a budget tyre does just as good a job. If you drive carefully and within the capability of the Galaxy (again remember it's not a sports car!) then you shouldn't often find yourself in such a situation. So, in summary, tyre choice is very much a personal decision based on what you drive, how you drive it and how many miles you drive. My own experience being that there is no performance, wear or safety benefit for me so I choose the cheapest option. For those that manage many more miles out of their tyres, the percentage saving is much lower so other factors such as safety are considered more. Wouldn't it be boring if we all thought the same way? And finally . . . This isn't a "secret" and many of the Chinese brands also used silica based compounds in their tyres.

Clearly, if it works under manual control then there is a fault with the climate control system. Take it back to the Dealer and insist that it is replaced under warranty. On the subject of tyre wear, if the wear is even, i.e. not an indication of suspension problems, etc., then it's probably due to driving conditions and your driving style. Do you do a lot of lower speed, around town type driving? Do you accelerate, brake and corner harder than you could (quite easy to do in this car I'm sure!)? Out of interest what make tyres are fitted?

Engine code E5SA with Stage III emissions level (145PS), E5SB with Stage IV emissions level (140PS).

Simple maths if you remember your algebra! a = 1st digit (tens), b = 2nd digit (units). So in their example, a=2 and b=8. Choose a random two digit number (e.g. 28). [ 10a + b ] Add the two digits (2+8=10). [ a + b ] Subtract the result from the number (28-10=18). [ 10a + b - ( a + b ) = 9a ] The answer is always 9 times the first digit. The pictures on the second page are the same for all multiples of 9 (9, 18, 27, etc.)

You need to fit the new harness in addition to what's already there.

Your battery is obviously losing charge. Has the battery itself been checked? If that's OK then there must be something draining it while the engine isn't running. Check your interior lights (including glove compartment). It could be a fault with the radio drawing current when it should be off or any of the other vehicle circuits for that matter. If you're not a confident electrician I would suggest taking it to a good auto electrician who should be able to locate the fault.

bj2004 is partly right - air con removes moisture but it does this by cooling the air. As the air cools it becomes denser and the water vapour can no longer be retained so it condenses out. If the air con and heater are both on, the air con firstly cools (and dries) the air entering the heater which then heats it up again. What was the heater set to when you first put the air con on and how long did you wait before turning the heater up? You need to have the temperature dial set to cold plus the air con can take a few seconds to respond before cold air can be felt (and obviously only with the engine running!).

The battery is a CR2016. There is no info stored that could be lost during a battery change. Click here for how to change the battery - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=137176. There's information on the forum somewhere on how to programme a new key fob, using your existing key. Probably in the FAQ.

... except his is a 2006 model. Up until May 2003 the cambelt interval is 40,000 miles / 5 years. From June 2003 it is 60,000 miles / 5 years.

Don't forget to get your cambelt changed at 60,000 miles.

Tell your Dealer to look for Technical Service Bulletin no. 63/2008 (October 17): "Summary Should a customer express concern that the brake system warning lamp / Stability control (ESP) warning lamp is illuminated in the instrument cluster, the probable cause is a damaged front ABS-sensor wiring in the area of the shock absorber and spring assembly. The ABS-sensor wiring harness for the front brake is available for S-MAX/Galaxy 2006.5 and Mondeo 2007.5 as a spare part for servicing purposes. If the ABS-sensor wiring harness is damaged the engine compartment wiring harness may no longer be replaced completely. This TSB details the necessary steps to install the ABS-sensor wiring harness for the front brake."

Could just need a good clean out and the glow plug replaced if this has never been done. There should be plenty of information on here about how to do this.

Is this any use?

Are you in "SPORT" mode if you have that option fitted? If not, I'd take it back to the Dealer to get it fixed. It doesn't sound normal to me.

If you're comfortable taking the gearbox out then that's the most difficult part. You will need an alignment tool to fit the clutch plate correctly though.

Red = positive Red/brown = negative (You might find some of the other speakers have blue positive and blue/brown negative)

1) The Bluetooth mic is in the courtesy lamp unit above the rear view mirror. 2,3) The auto lights and wiper sensor is a combined unit at the top centre of the windscreen (above the rear view mirror). Ensure that your windscreen is clean there.

It's surprising how sound is transmitted through the body. When one of my ARB drop links failed the rattle sounded like it was coming from the back.

How's this: There is another wear indicator in the pad on the diagonally opposite wheel.

Sounds like the ESP warning light. It means the ESP is activating to stabilise the car preventing wheelspin, skidding or rolling. If it's on continuously there is a fault in the system.

Remove ABS sensor Remove track rod end locknut Disconnect track rod end ball joint (ball joint splitter tool is useful here!) Disconnect hub from lower arm Remove pinch bolt connecting hub to suspension unit Disconnect driveshaft from hub Separate hub from suspension unit Note: when re-fitting, you should use a new hub retaining bolt.

Did you take it back to the supplying Dealer to get the work done? If not, you are in a weaker position as they should be given the opportunity to put it right first.