insider

In the FAQs, item 4 if you've got a Mk2 or item 48 for a Mk1 Mk1 - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=92295 Mk2 - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=35344

I think the cameraman in the bottom-right of the picture is struggling to get the best angle!

All red badges were used on 130 and 150 models so it could be.

Try this: NOTE: A maximum of eight remote transmitters can be programmed and programming must be carried out at the same time for all the remote transmitters. 1. Fasten the safety belts and close all doors to make sure that conflicting chimes do not sound during programming. 2. The ignition switch must be turned to position II exactly four times during remote transmitter programming. Failure to follow this instruction may result in incorrect remote transmitter programming. 3. Turn the ignition switch from position I to position II four times exactly within six seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch to position I. An audible chime will be heard to indicate that learning mode is enabled. 5. Press and hold one of the buttons on the remote transmitter until a chime sounds. This indicates a new remote transmitter code has been successfully received. Repeat this step, within 10 seconds, for any other transmitters you have. 6. Wait 10 seconds or turn the ignition switch to position II to exit learning mode. 7. Test all the programmed remote transmitters, by activating and deactivating the locking/unlocking functions.

Sorry, no - I got the information from a wiring diagram. Have you checked in the owners manual?

As far as I can tell it's fuses 17 and 18 for the indicators. I'm not sure which is which or what else it might disable too but it's worth a try!

A complete electrical failure would stop the engine and you wouldn't see any warning lights but from what you explained the engine was still running? It could still be the power steering pump putting excessive loading on the engine but I would expect the belt to start slipping or even break if this was the case.

Possibly the power steering pump? If this was seizing it would put extra load on the engine, reducing the power. It would also explain the heavy steering.

Surely the ignition warning light was a sufficient warning to stop? With so many electrical systems in modern cars these days I wouldn't consider it sensible to drive without the alternator working, unless it is just a very short journey home or to a garage to repair it. If the car had traditional hydraulic power steering the belt failure would have prevented this working anyway and the car would not have been able to be driven at all. Electro-hydraulic power steering is more efficient because the pump is only driven when it's needed, i.e. lower speed, high steering effort, rather than all the time the engine is running.

Correct. The engine codes are: 90 - ANU 115 - AUY 130 - ASZ 150 - ASZ1

As I understand it, it's pretty safe on the old TDI engines. The problems start with the Mk2 PD engines and the newer common-rail engines due to the high fuel pressures involved.

I think the only difference between the 90hp (1Z and AHU) and the 110hp (AFN) is the intake system, exhaust system and turbo. The basic engine (inc. cylinder head) should be the same. The differences start with the PD engines which have a different camshaft with additional lobes to drive the PD injectors.

I hope you've gone back to them and complained. A 130 would have been valued at more than a 115 so you should expect some money back! (For an 03 2003 Zetec with 50,000 miles, Parkers value the 115 at

That'll probably be the cylinder head temperature sensor - screwed into the head(s) somewhere.

A continuous tone means there is a fault in the system. It will log an error code if you have a suitable reader and this will have to be cleared to reset the module. Check for obvious obstructions on the sensors themselves, otherwise it could be a wiring fault.

The sensor's normally in the thermostat housing.

Deceleration when the throttle is applied? - doesn't sound normal to me! Check with the Dealer - there might be a software update for the engine.

I would tend to agree with gio - the fans are unlikely to have to operate at motorway speeds as there would be more than enough cool air flowing over the radiator. Have you checked the following? Anything blocking the radiator grille? Coolant level, any leaks? Slipping drive belt? Is there air in system? Thermostat? Expansion tank and/or cap and seal. Radiator blocked? Water pump (there are known problems with plastic impellors breaking - search this site)

Not too difficult. You don't mention which engine you have but in principle it's the same for all - remove drive belt, disconnect the low- and high pressure lines (draining the fluid carefully), unbolt the pulley, then unbolt and remove the pump. You might have to disconnect some of the air hoses to get access to the pump. As for the cost of a pump it depends whether you want to pay Dealer prices for new or try the breakers' yards for used.

It's not a regular service item but on a car over 10 years old it might be worth doing. You'll have to disconnect the high pressure line from the pump and drain it from there. When you refill the fluid, ensure that you pour it slowly and don't agitate it too much to avoid getting air into the fluid. However, I think the real problem is that your pump is starting to fail so it might be worth doing that first (the fluid will have to be changed then anyway!)

Sounds like the pump is starting to play up. When was the fluid last changed? When it's cold it will be more viscous increasing the resistance to the pump and hence this is when a failing pump is most likely to show up.

Just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes - that will clear any fault codes in the ECU memory. (Make sure you have your radio code though!)

Having said that, this is true for Zetec models. However, I notice you have a Ghia so they might have retained it on them? To find out, remove the cup holder and see if there is an electrical connector on the back.

Yes, use the resistance (ohmmeter) function. (Make sure there is no power going to the glow plugs when you're measuring the resistance though.)

Check your glow plugs - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=128889