insider

Isn't it still under warranty in which case this is just academic? They'll just fix it (eventually!) and you won't have to pay anything. Something else that did occur to me though - are you sure you put diesel in? It was early in the morning after all!

It seems that Ford and VW have differing opinions on this then because the Galaxy manual states: Perhaps Ford are just covering themselves on the risk of potential warranty claims, whereas VW know their engine is capable of running reliably on biodiesel? For the cynics, perhaps Ford are under pressure from the oil companies to minimise bio diesel use to maximise their profits? Or, maybe these engines just aren't capable of reliably on bio diesel? Who knows? Personally, I wouldn't risk an expensive repair bill in the longer term just to make a smaller saving in the short term.

You could check/change your gearbox oil. It sounds like it's OK while the oil is cold but worse when the oil is warm and able to run more freely. However, this could just be masking a more serious problem with the gearbox itself, possibly the synchromesh between 2nd and 3rd?

To enable the trip computer you require a mid-line cluster (as on the Ghia models). Zetecs are usually fitted with baseline clusters so you'd have to change that plus buy and fit the stalk. Not cheap! Check this - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=116823

Don't forget that sites promoting biodiesel will naturally have a bias towards saying how good it is for your car and the environment. However, modern diesel engines do not react well to more than 5% mix of biodiesel (which you get from the pumps anyway) so use biodiesel at your own risk!

You could try this - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=115927. Can't guarantee it works though!

You could just use the car jack and do them one at a time (using the spare).

Having read this post - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=131371 - and from my own experience it seems to me that garages are losing their diagnostic skills relying instead on the car's computer to tell them what's wrong with it. What does everyone else think? I bought a used Renault a couple of years ago. After a few days it was apparent that it had an uneven idle and the engine was losing power intermittently while cruising. As it was still under warranty it was taken to a main Renault dealer and also to an independent garage. Both told me they had performed a diagnostic check on the car but that there was no fault. As the car was not behaving as it should I did my own checks and simply removing the spark plugs revealed the cause - one of the plugs had a 0.2mm gap! (should be 0.9mm). The gap was duly corrected, the plugs replaced and the problem had disappeared! A simple solution yet 2 different garages couldn't fix it. I assume that the car must have been manufactured with this fault since the service interval is 4 years for spark plugs on this model.

Yes! If one of your driveshafts broke as a result of a manufacturing defect the diagnostic system would know nothing about it but it would still have to be fixed under warranty. Take it back and insist they use the "old-fashioned" diagnostic system, i.e. a knowledgable mechanic (if they can find one!), who can accompany you in the car and understand what the problem is. If they won't do this then take it to another Dealer who will. Don't be fobbed off by a Dealer who obviously can't be bothered to investigate your concerns.

As big_kev says it's the same on Galaxy and S-MAX:

or was the "typical motorway type run" done on the M25? <_<

Check the wiring in the door gaitors?

Just because no faults are being reported, it doesn't mean there isn't one! A good Dealer would accompany you in the car to understand what the problem is. It's still under warranty so take it back, or better still, take it to a different (better) Dealer.

This isn't true - the speed rating is simply the maximum speed that the tyre can run at for a 10 minute period without failing. It has nothing to do with torque. I believe the minimum speed rating you should fit to the Galaxy is H. Anything higher (V, W, etc.) is OK but would probably wear quicker due to the softer rubber compound used.

The top trim panel unclips and can be removed complete with the ashtray to reveal all four screws. (I assume you got at the rear two screws by removing the gear lever boot and getting at them through the cut-out in the trim panel?)

It's 650-750rpm on the 2.8 petrol engine but the normal idle speed for most engines is 800-900rpm

The spec. is 900rpm. How did you measure it? Using VAG-COM is probably the most accurate way, the instrument panel gauge probably isn't!

The only recommended items I can find outside normal servicing are: Renew brake fluid every 2 years. Drain, flush and refill coolant system after 6 years, then every 4 years thereafter.

Just make sure it is vacuum pipe, i.e. semi-rigid type, otherwise the vacuum will cause it to collapse and you'll effectively have a blockage.

If you press the lock button on the remote key twice instead of just once I believe it locks the car, without deadlocking and with the alarm deactivated.

Correct - just behind the battery.

Sounds like you have a Mark 1 Galaxy then. The diesel engines in these were either 90hp (engine code 1Z then later AHU) or 110hp (engine code AFN). The Mark 2 was introduced with 90hp and 115hp PD (Pumpe Deuse) engines then the 130hp and 150hp were added later.

Immobiliser?