insider

No, VAG-COM will not work with the 2.3 engine.

A Ford Dealer should be able to tell you if the crankshaft is different between engines for manual and auto cars. In my experience though, they are usually the same.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking but . . . The crankshaft is part of the engine not the gearbox and is usually the same regardless of which type of gearbox is fitted. If a manual gearbox is fitted then a flywheel is used, for an automatic there is an adaptor plate instead of the flywheel. Both are bolted to the same crankshaft.

The reverse light switch is in the gearbox but if the reversing lamps are switching on then this would seem to be working correctly. Do you have VAG-COM as this would list any fault codes in the parking sensor module. A continuous tone indicates a problem with one or more of the sensors, the speaker or the module itself. Another possible fault is that one of your rear fog lamp bulbs is not working. I'm not sure how this could affect it but it is listed as a possible cause.

If the manual says 97H then 97H can be fitted. There will be no issue with insurance.

I would take it back and insist that they carry out the gear linkage adjustment procedure under warranty. If this doesn't improve it then clearly they need to start looking for more major faults. Don't let them fob you off!

This might help - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=132723.

As an '03 model the originally fitted engine would definitely be a PD type. I'm not sure about the differences in the cylinder head (if any) but there are people with more experience with this on the forum. Perhaps if you post again with a title "Differences between 90 and 115 head?" you might attract some better replies?

Don't know if this helps? - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=112191

If it doesn't tell you how to do it in the manual then it's probably something that would have to be programmed by a Ford Dealer.

Sounds like the vanes are sticking in your VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger) and it's tripping into limp-home mode (switching off and on again clears it). There are numerous references to this in the forum if you search.

Perhaps you'd be better off talking to ICE specialists instead of Dealers? They should have more expertise on the radio itself. Alternatively, you could try a Sony Centre.

I think it's included within the fuel pump. The electrical connections are pins 4 (brown/blue) and 7 (yellow/black).

Are you certain it is over-fuelling, not just excessive fuel consumption? As you suggest, if it's burning more fuel then you'd expect black smoke. However, if the extra fuel is not being burnt then you'd get white smoke instead - any sign of this? Excessive fuel consumption could be due to a wide range of reasons, e.g. brakes binding, faulty aux heater, etc. Are there any other unusual symptoms with the car?

It is just a simple job of removing the 4 bolts. When you decide to put it back, torque the bolts to 40Nm.

A report clearly intended to advertise Continental. Interesting that they didn't compare other premium brands at their test track! As sparky Paul stated the charts do exaggerate the differences and I believe this report is clearly intended to scare people rather than present scientific fact. The results are presented as relative, the baseline being Continental with no reference to an absolute requirement. It's interesting to use the recommendations in the Highway Code as a reference point: WET BRAKING FROM 50mph Continental: 32 metres Linglong: 41 metres Highway Code: 76 metres (from Rule 126 - 38 metres in the dry but "The gap should be at least doubled on wet roads") So, even the worst tyre will stop within 54% of the Highway code stated distance, 42% for Continental. DRY BRAKING FROM 70mph Continental: 37 metres Linglong: 42 metres Highway Code: 75 metres Again, the worst tyre still stops within 56% of the Highway Code stated distance, 49% for Continental. In summary, if you drive within the recommendations of the Highway Code the braking distances of the budget tyres are more than adequate. Yes, premium tyres perform better but you would expect them to because you're paying more for them. The question you should ask yourself is whether or not the tyres you buy are suitable for you, your vehicle and your driving style? Good quality means "fit for purpose" and even the worst tyres here more than meet the criteria for stopping distance.

Actually, it's 100,000 miles or 10 years, whichever you reach first.

It will be underneath the car.

In hindsight perhaps you should have gone for the S-MAX, used values seem to be holding up better than the Galaxy. From Parkers web-site: 08 2008 Ford Galaxy 2.2TDCi Ghia Original list price -

An excellent point and well worth considering on any car - the extras will depreciate much quicker. It's always better to buy the standard model and only add extras that you really need, i.e. that you personally will get value from having.

I would think yes and no in that order. Actually, no and no. Options is certainly not privileged information - http://www.ford.co.uk/Buyingandprotectingy...dit/FordOptions (The Privilege system is where Ford employees and family members are able to purchase new cars at an enhanced discount)

It'll be one of these: PETROL: 2.3l or 2.8l (V6) DIESEL: 1.9TDI, either 90hp or 115hp

He bought the car on Ford Options which is effectively leasing it for 3 years, i.e. fixed monthly payment and guaranteed future value. You're obviously paying interest on the finance too which you wouldn't if you'd paid cash up front. The monthly payments for personal leasing would also take depreciation into account so you'd still be paying about the same as you would have lost in depreciation (any sensible leasing company won't be out of pocket after 12 months).