insider

Fuse 33 (10A) doesn't blow for this reason as it powers the wiper switch not the motor. If Fuse 24 (30A) blows then you should start being concerned!

You need a 12mm triple square bit (12-point), like this: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?se...re&tool=all

The 10A fuse (33) powers the wiper switch, whilst the 30A fuse (24) powers the wiper motor. With no power to the switch it cannot tell the wiper motor to move! However, this is only on models built between May 2002 and November 2004.

It's more likely to be a high current spike when the compressor is switched on or off. I've had fuses blow front and back while using portable compressors.

Check the wires where they go through the rubber gaitor to the tailgate. You might find that they're damaged / chafing.

It might just be that your DIY service coincided with the colder weather at this time of year. Your fuel consumption will be worse in winter than summer as more fuel is required to heat the engine and passenger compartment. Combined with short trips / around town driving and there would be a noticeable difference.

The USB connection is a

Check the windscreen excess on your insurance. It'll probably be easier and cheaper to just have it replaced!

See my edited post above. I appears that from 2005 they were an option not a standard fit.

The lever for swivelling is on the opposite side to the seat height adjust lever.

Do you have the built-in DVD screens? If so, the front seats won't swivel. I've just checked Parkers and according to them swivelling seats were standard until 2005 when they became an option.

The Zetec does not have the trip computer as standard. Retrofit is possible but not easy as you will need to replace the complete instrument panel with a "high series" version. This will then need to be programmed to adjust the odometer reading to your current mileage.

Disconnecting it shouldn't cause any damage. It's there to reduce engine emissions while the engine is cold and should be switched off by the ECU within a couple of minutes once the lambda sensor has reached its working temperature. (Air is injected into the exhaust manifold to oxidise any unburnt fuel, reducing emissions and heating the catalytic converter more quickly to its working temperature). The engine warning light might come on to indicate the pump isn't working but that should be all. The relay is switched by the ECU so the most likely fault is the relay stuck in the closed position. According to the wiring diagram applying 12v across pins 4 and 6 should close the relay across pins 2 and 8. If you have continuity between pins 2 and 8 without applying power then the relay is stuck.

The relay is located in the battery junction box and is marked K123 on the wiring diagram: Hope this helps!

The window glass is clamped at the bottom with two metal clamps which have a rubber protective piece between the glass and metal. These rubber pieces have been known to fall out causing the glass to contact the metal and rattle. There are instructions (probably in the FAQ) on how to remove the door card.

Your symptoms and cure don't make sense to me. In your first post you say "intermittent Kangarooing 1000-2000 rpm under light acceleration that you can stop by lifting or putting your foot down". In your second post you say "It is normal upon sudden application of load at higher engine speeds". This suggests to me that you are experiencing the symptoms at low engine speeds / light load, yet your solution is for a problem at high engine speeds / high load? I can't find a wire that goes from the instrument cluster to the ECU, except for the CAN bus. Obviously this links several modules and would not be one to disconnect! If you think the problem is boost pressure related and caused by a slow response to demand then I would think it would be the actuators that are slow to respond, not the ECU. Perhaps you have a blockage in the vacuum pipes or a sticky variable vane mechanism?

Sorry, I don't have any more information than this.

I've found this if it helps? "Make sure piston No. 2 is on TDC. The copper link of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the crankshaft timing sprocket and on the balancer shaft sprocket."

The VSS is the Vehicle Speed Sensor which does not go to the ECU but direct from the sensor itself to the instrument panel (speedometer). I can't see how removing this wire would solve your problem since it would just stop the speedometer from working! Connections to the ECU (or anywhere else for that matter) are there for a reason, not to be disconnected to solve problems. You should look for the real cause of this problem.

First you need to specify which engine you have. If it's 2.0 or 2.3 petrol then split vacuum pipes could be the fault. If it's any of the diesel engines or a V6 petrol then C/C is electronically controlled by the ECU.

As you have the 2.3 Ford engine VAG-COM will not be able to communicate with it.

Ford WDS is the correct software - only available to Ford Dealers. However, any generic OBD II code reader should work.

How about the indicator stalk switch?

I believe you will need to add the hardware module then have this programmed. Unless the module is already there in which case it will just need to be programmed. Ask your local Ford Dealer (and prepare to be charged handsomely! :D )