insider

If you want lower profile tyres you'll need to fit them to larger wheels, i.e 17" or even 18". You can get reinforced tyres in these sizes. Check the Customising forum for details from people who've already done this.

H rated minimum 95 load rating minimum Must be reinforced (RF) or extra load (XL)

Where did you take it for the "big repairs"? Is it possible that they removed the undertray and didn't replace it?

First, does your car have an under tray fitted (deep water won't have removed it - they don't come off that easily!) If not, then you will need to get a replacement otherwise you're always at risk of this happening. If it does have an undertray then it's likely the deep water soaked the belt and pulley and caused it to slip. This should have dried out and started working again but wouldn't explain why it's failing again. Perhaps there is still residual water in the undertray itself? Or maybe the belt is now worn and needs to be replaced or just re-tensioned? This should give you some more info (if it's not the one you've already looked at) - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=132978.

115 if it's a Mk2

The ECU is registering a fault in the ESP module which clears each time you switch off. The fact that it comes back again indicates that the fault is recurring. Take it back to the Dealer to fix under warranty.

"How long is a piece of string?" There are so many variations in usage, driving style, belt quality, individual vehicle characteristics, etc. that there is no definitive answer to your question. Belts will age and eventually fail which is the reason for the specified time interval. They will also wear out the more use they get hence the mileage interval. The belt is also likely to be more stressed if the engine speed is frequently varied, i.e. short urban journeys as opposed to long distance cruising at constant speed. In your case it's quite likely that the belt will last longer but there is no way of telling how long. You need to decide whether you are willing to go past the next interval and risk costly damage to the engine if the belt fails before you eventually decide to change it.

It's a question of balancing the risk against the benefits. Punctures causing irreparable damage to the tyre are rare and the chances of all the factors above conspiring against you are extremely remote. The benefits are not just reduced vehicle cost but reduced vehicle weight of the spare wheel being carried around all the time. However, I agree that it could be specified as an option for those that decide they really need it. Didn't you consider the "run-flat" tyres option?

Doesn't it explain how to do this in the manual? On the Mk2 Galaxy, pressing the lock button twice locks the car without deadlocks and alarm. Perhaps it's similar on the Mk3?

So, you're lubricating the belt with water and allowing it to slip without squealing and you wonder why your alternator isn't charging the battery correctly? B) The belt is squealing for a reason - there is more resistance than there should be on one of the pulleys. It could be your alternator, power steering pump or A/C compressor but one of them is causing more resistance. Fix the cause not the symptom!

A 125 85 R16 tyre/wheel combination will have a diameter of 619mm whereas a 225 50 R17 will have a diameter of 657mm. So, being that much smaller the space saver wouldn't be very safe (and that's without considering whether or not it has reinforced side-walls!)

Sounds like you're talking about spark plugs in which case this doesn't apply to the 1.6 TDCi engine in the original question, or are you referring to the glow plugs?

Surely you must agree it is a VW issue otherwise you wouldn't have seen the difference on two different Golfs you were driving? I've also seen posts on Seat forums where they have the same issues - no C/C light at all or on all the time the switch is on.

Sounds familiar . . . http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=104711

It would be interesting to hear from anyone with a Mk2 2.3 Galaxy with cruise control - does the C/C light work properly in these, i.e. comes on only when the speed is being kept constant not all the time the switch is on? If so, it must be a quirk of the VW ECU.

Perhaps they just upgraded the ECU for the later model so now it's working as it should?

The ECUs in question are made by Bosch for VW, it was also VW that made the Galaxys for Ford in the Autoeuropa factory in Portugal, therefore I don't see how Ford could have been involved in programming them? Ford use their own ECUs for their own engines - C/C is controlled by vacuum pump and a separate C/C module on these, not the ECU.

You should have an on/off switch on the indicator stalk. Move it to the "off" position and the light should go out.

Start with pin 33 in the door connector (red/yellow wire), this is the 12v supply. Pins 1 (black/yellow) and 2 (brown/yellow) are the lock and unlock signals.

I had a similar problem here - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=85960. It still does it sometimes.

I assume you had the car from new? If not, there's no telling what the previous owner did! It might also be worth checking with VW and Seat dealers whether they've had similar problems with diesel Sharans and Alhambras of the same age since the mechanicals are the same. If they're having to repair under warranty then Ford should do the same.

Your original post doesn't say you've changed the MAF sensor, just unplugged it. The engine won't work perfectly with the MAF sensor disconnected but the fact that you noticed a difference suggests that the sensor is faulty. Put a new MAF sensor in and see what happens. If you still have the problem at idle you can then start looking elsewhere.

Looks like you might have answered your own question! Spend your money on changing the MAF sensor.

The key phrase here is "clutch wear". Although unusual at such a low mileage it is always possible due to different driving styles and usage conditions so this would not be covered by warranty. However, if a manufacturing defect or other fault is found then they would have to honour the warranty. Has this happened suddenly (possible fault) or has it gradually got worse (wear)? The clutch plate could be getting contaminated by oil leaking from elsewhere, causing it to slip. At the end of the day you need to get it fixed anyway and you might be lucky and get it done under warranty.