insider

You say that you've checked the fluid level but is at the maximum or minimum level? If it's at minimum the fluid in the master cylinder will reduce further under heavy braking, perhaps enough to trigger the low fluid warning. (I guess the beeps are just there in addition to the light to alert you to a potentially dangerous fault). Are the brakes working OK besides or is the brake pedal a bit spongy? If there's air in the system the fluid level could drop even further under heavy braking, even though it looks full with the vehicle stopped.

You could try VW or Seat dealers too - it's the same as the Sharan and Alhambra. They might be a bit cheaper? Also, don't be afraid to ask for a discount!

The brake fluid is recommended to be renewed every 2 years, regardless of mileage. Do you know when it was last done?

Reminds me of a question I asked earlier this year - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...&pid=131379.

There should be a big label on the inside of the fuse box cover.

Just realised why - the MAF sensor measures the air flow before it reaches the turbo. The T-MAP sensor measures air pressure and temperature after the turbo to enable boost pressure and fueling to be accurately determined. So, it won't be measuring the true ambient air temperature, perhaps this is just VAG-COMs definition of ambient temperature?

The T-MAP sensor measures the intake air temperature, i.e. ambient air temperature. On other cars a T-MAP (Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor replaces both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensors. However, for some reason the VW diesel engine has both a MAF and a T-MAP.

I think it's probably the T-MAP sensor you want (item 6), on the opposite side of the engine to the MAF sensor (item 10).

The ESP light coming on suggests a different problem to this, along with the fact that your's is a Mk2 (PD engine) and Scorpiorefugee has a Mk1. When active, the ESP can cut engine power and brake any or all of the wheels which would certainly explain your sudden lack of power. I'd suggest getting it diagnosed with VAG-COM.

On the opposite face to the buttons there is a small slot above the Ford logo. Insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot and twist it. This should detach the key from the fob without much effort. You can then open the fob itself by releasing the plastic clips on either side to reveal the battery. Be careful that nothing falls out, especially your PATS chip (if you lose this your car will be immobilised).

The centre brake light has a direct feed from the brake pedal switch so this all appears to be working OK. The left and right stop lamps are fed via the central junction box which also controls the tail and rear indicator lamps. Are your tail and rear indicator lamps working correctly? If not, then the problem lies in the central junction box. Otherwise, it's probably a wiring fault between there and the rear lamp units, most likely in the tailgate rubber gaiter.

The o-ring material won't really matter. The blue one was probably fluorosilicon but even the usual nitrile o-rings are OK for diesel and certainly wouldn't have degraded in this short a time anyway. It's more likely to be the fit. Are you certain your o-rings were exactly the same size as the originals?

Check the fuel system. When was the fuel filter last changed? Under load the engine demands more fuel, if it's not getting it then you will lose power.

Probably best to drive carefully and try not to crash at all then!

No, don't believe it - the top picture's a LHD car, the bottom is RHD! :o (I guess you mirror-imaged the top photo so they're both pointing the same way? The absence of the fuel filler flap gave it away!) :o

Engine speed sensor could cause the problem. The ECU needs to see a minimum engine cranking speed before the engine will start.

They didn't need to take the engine and subframe out to do it but apparently that's how they decided to do it. If, by the subframe, they mean the front crossmember (i.e. what attaches the suspension to the body) then it's always recommended to check the tracking after re-fitting it because it's unlikely to go back in exactly the same position.

Transit minibus? At the rate you're going you'll soon need even more than 8 seats! :rolleyes:

Perhaps it's worth checking the glow plugs yourself? - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=46206.

I'm not sure whether vehicles with climate control have a resistor pack but this might help - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=133196.

First, check the power steering fluid level. If the garage had followed the correct procedure for removing and installing the gearbox they would not have had to touch any part of the steering system. However, as the steering wheel is now off-centre and wasn't previously they must have done something to it. The "steering angle sensor" is included in the air bag sliding contact ("clock spring") located behind the steering wheel. If this was removed and re-fitted for any reason then the ESP module needs to be re-configured. Quote from TIS: "WARNING:The electronic stability program must be re-configured. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. Configure the electronic stability program using WDS." (WDS is Ford's version of VAG-COM) Regarding the grating noise, if it is the driveshafts then it's possible these were damaged whilst the gearbox was being removed. Again from TIS: "CAUTION:Support the halfshaft. The inner joint must not be bent more than 20 degrees. The outer joint must not be bent more than 50 degrees." Hope this helps and good luck in tackling the garage with these issues.

I agree that investing in VAG-COM would be a good idea. However, as Jazzman has a PD engine (115bhp) this will not be a timing problem. The timing on PD engines is set when the timing belt is locked in position and then controlled by the ECU. It cannot "drift" in the same way as a TDI since there is no needle lift sensor. Incorrect timing on a PD engine would be a constant problem, not intermittent.

If you're suggesting the vanes have more room to move because they contract when it's cold, then surely the surrounding metalwork of the turbo would contract by a similar amount, rendering the clearance the same?

Possibly because cold air is denser, less turbo boost is required so you are less likely to over-boost and go into limp mode. However, this doesn't solve the obvious fault you have with the turbo, etc.!

The symptoms sound like it's going into "limp home" mode for which there are numerous posts on the forum. It's basically due to the variable nozzle mechanism not working properly which could be because of blocked or leaking vacuum pipes, faulty actuators or just a sticky mechanism. Search the forum and you'll probably find the answer.