zorgman

you can check the maf by having a little drive then unplug the maf (its onn the intake big pipe just unplugs) do a bit more driving and if its got more power your maf is dead if its worse your mafs ok. trouble with fords is that vagcom cant be used on them to check sensors out, im sure somewhere on here thers a guide to checking your maf. theres no tuning can be done by a garage unless you get a full remap on a rolling road about

right hand side rear of engine, just blank it off does no harm to engine will still pass mot and you wont get inlet full of carbon, mines being done 2.5 years, big mod this in states

yes fixed my problem on car but a sod to get ecu out but well worth it, month later got limp mode again ripped turbo out and gave it agood clean with oven cleaner cars never flackered since

ecu is behind the clocks as far as i know on facelift, deffo vagcom or run a diagnostics first doubt your ecu is fauty ive got a spare one with 2 keys if u get stuck or if you were closer to sunderland would run my tester on car for yo

thought the vanes are on the exhaust side so its burnt chemicals going into turbo trying to clean the carbon off the vanes, so redex is probs the same and much cheaper, always worth the try tho saves a lot of work and skin, but at end of day itll never do the sme job as stripping it off. do a check on the actuator make sure that it'll go thru the full stroke to check operation

ill check circuit diagrams for u itll be the wire coming off the switch that you need which will end up at comfort control under passenger seat, thats best place to mount unit as everything you want is there but make sure that its mounted high up or on top of unit incase it gets wet

if your carefull using short bared wire no problems have used flash test process for years when ive forgot my avo

if yo have hiss at dash the ecu is begind clocks chances are its not connected but also theres a vac pipe goes to the heater speed switch for air recirculate. inside the ecu is a small link pipe that connects to the map sensor, this goes all gooey soft and the vac can suck it in and it clags together so stopping the vacuem getting in. i changed every pipe on mine used 15foot of pipe to find out about ecu internal pipe had gone

not your maf its the turbo giving you the grief, always when testing erase codes then do a run then retest as you dont know which is new or old

no meter then spark test them. get at plug tops by pulling off the covers to each one, get a wire from battery positive them touch top of each one, good ones spark dead ones dont, are you waiting till light goes out. if you have a meter also check that the relay is working by testing if supply is going to the plugs, i wouldnt worry myself mines done that for 2yrs in all temps

seem to remember its not a singke wire on them unless you have global closing unit, check by locking door and keep it in lock position should put window up also puts on double locking, if it has global ill get you the wire code what year petrol diesel etc needed

swap the handles over from side to side, easy job one torx screw and push handle forward then pull outwards. got no locks at all on mine put rear handles on front doors took me all of 10 mins

cruise control pull clutch pedal up with foot when u try it mine was out of aliginment simple fix

no mod kit needed just blank pipework work off i made a tin plate to blank it 2 years ago and car is no problem passed mot with lower emmisions

the tdi's have a clutch on them. to check put small screwdriver to hold te fan then see if one way you can turn the pulley other way you cant, thats the clutch. something to do with a mod that was done years ago for the bottom pulley on crank, ill find out for you. check this out its with all tdi's from 90hp up including yours http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=95499 think link will work but its in the faq's at top about it

totaly removed my egr all blanked off, check actuator is free and working, its at back of engine all the vac pipes are black cotton covered so easy to spot

i put a 120a on my sharan it looks identical except for sticker info stating 120a. check the free clutch before fitting

can this be done with a mk1 tdi ive got vag tacho lead and vag com lead

just for knowledge the ecu is behind the clocks, sod of a job to get out if you dont have the knack of it, seems funny your vagcom is not picking car up have you got the ign turned on with lights shown on dash ie alt light

hi it should run without the box on the door there is a led does it flash at you when you turn ign on (not sure if it will do owt without box). i would go thru checking all plugs under the bonnet, what engine is in it as im still non the wiser without knowing that

just buy a seat off a galshazbra all seats are same clip in with no mods

exact a mundo its a torch

right then, the relay controls the rear hatch door nothing else, the inertia switch has a button on top press it in to check it infact you can short it out to test it, theres 2 types of units fitted called comfort control a 2 plug and 3 plug the 2 plug has no alarm the 3 plug has an alarm. you need to check the basic items first have you a spark (only petrol models have the cut off switch) have you got petrol flowing by memory theres a valve like a tyre valve you can press in to check this

hi live with it as these engines are noisey, itll be induction noise off air box you can hear. im just about to spend next few days adding more sound proofing to mine to make it a bit better

runs down from right to left looking at engine ecu behind clocks goes to big pipe just left of battery