zorgman

sorted it myself. read loadsa instructions on changing belt and the 6mm locking pin is only used on pumps that have a sliding cam belt wheel ie slacken 3 bolds and the wheel will move on eccentric holes. on the afn engine its a fixed wheel so its a 13mm pin that locks the pump and a large C type shape for the camlock, so there you go the tis instructions and whats in the faqs only refer to sliding wheel.

making a cam locking plate and have 2 types of locking plate diagrams with the pin size. one is shaped like a letter E the other like a big C one uses a 6mm pin other aprox 13mm. so which one do i make please as im stuck and cant get at car till mon morn when its free. many thanks

take out the complete ashtray as its in 2 parts inner and outer and look towards the front thats where it is

do a search for 3mm rubber tube, guy has a big page then just click on the braided tube

same place under ashtray in middle

there not vac lines, the ones you need to change are the cotton braided rubber tube 3mm id, guy on ebay sells it in 3m lenghts. dont forget the one that comes off the boost pipe next to battery that goes into car and connects to the ecu which you get at by removing the clocks. i found by using normal tubing it flops all over and for the cost its well worth it

you need scantool and the ford plug in unit all on ebay. the vag unit will only reset airbags

mine does that as well dont know why i even replaced tensioner and pulley, read somewher its play in the bushes that the bar runs thru all part of alt bracketry. taking mine off when bit better weather to check

wrong sensor. its clipped onto the wipers stabiliser bar to the left of the hinge should be a silver disk shape approx 15-20mm thick

the ford 2l is a old scorpio or transit 8v. the sharan uses a different vw lump not sure what it is. the gearbox is a vxt75 whereas the ford is a mtx75. i had the same idea when i bought a 2l gaxy and went into it in depth and the answer your looking for is no you cant as its all different wiring, ecu, engine mounts, gbox, the lot infact i sold the ga 2l and got a sharan tdi.

its behind the window wiper mech in the middle thats where mine is on a 99 sharan

i think its behind the battery and water bottle if i think on

just had air box off and found that the gasket on filter wasnt sealing proper due to warpage on the plastic, sorted that out and its muc better. the deisel noise on mine as been narrowed down to the injectors needing cleaned up thats getting done wed ill report back

ere you go locate te sensor on te passenger side wiper arms just look in above battery and its there. i took off te big plastic plate only 3 bolts and much easier to work on. theres 2 wires on sensor just get a length of 2 core wire (i used speaker wire as i had some) connect onto the 2 wires any way round i solder but scotchlocks will do. route the wire into cabin to a location you want and simply connect it to a switch, any switch will do as it carrys no amperage. hey viola you now control the heater.

already done mine and works a treat just unplug te sensor and take 2 wires to a switch, now i tell it when to come on and off with the eater still aving its own internal sensor i leave it on untill the warmer weather comes

doing more checks on my car. te intake noise ive narrowed down to the airbox, brand new filter but using a tube i listned round the airbox seal and tats where the noise is from. too cold to do it today so bit luck migt be warmer morrow and let you know how i get on

""hi looking for help took a chance and bought a galaxy 2001 1.9 diesel with 210000 miles and a timming belt that had slipped 4 teeth. striped it down replased 8 hydralic tappets inspected all other parts on sign of any other damage rebuilt with new timming belt+tentsoner+waterpump .starts and runs ok plenty power (now hears the but) still have noise like tappets from top end of engine and on acceleration a roar like intake noise.checked oil pressure ok 5.5bar at 3000rpm hot flushed eng oil three times using 5w40 any ideas"" snap ive got same problems here but i replaced all 8 valves. not sure on your motor if it runs a pump like mine but had to retime it using vag-com as it was way far too advanced. the intake roar ive got as well, have had every pipe off and checked using a high pressure airline on them and no leaks or cracks. what im looking into now is the air box as it seems all the noise comes from there so its coming off morrow see if it has any faults on it. when you drive it it'll sound like a old ldv post office van or old transit. the "top end noise wont be the tappets as you would here that as a mettalic "ting" wheras we've got a hard harsh coase noise. if i get any where ill post it here as it makes the car horrible to drive and your just waiting for it to go bang, thats how i feel anyhow

hi there do what i do, pop onto ebay and see what people are prepared to pay for a car similar to yours. being a petrol it'll be a lot less than derv motors. just put the cars into your watch list as into days money climate what you want and what you'll get are 2 completly different things. as an example i sold my p reg gall 2l for

oh yes as the dog wud say im getting a grip of all the old units to do with as i wish

at long last ive got the aux heater working on my 99 sharan. now if yours is not working dont jump in like i did and change the plug, first check that the small pump at drivers side just in front of tank is ok mine had a corroded wire on it but you can solder a new wire on and remake the connection. the system then tried to wind up so i knew that the plug was ok pump ok then into the heater itself. my plug was working as connect up to a 12v battery for a few seconds (no longer as its 8v and will burn out). if it glows red hot it may be ok but i changed mine put it all back together and still just a bit of smoke then shuts down. Off it came again and off to the vw agents and ordered the gasket set 7D0-898-003 cost

the diesel has the same heater blower system in the rear as petrol, but under the car connected to the water pipes is a water heater that helps heat the water up hence petrol has to wait for the engine to supply heat in the front and rear wereas the diesel uses the enging and the aux heater to give warm toes ie 2-3 mins to full temp as opposed to 10 mins upwards on petrol. the aux heater is there as the engine is far far more effiecient than converting fuel to power

So back to my original question, is your tdi noisey as in like a harsh heavy sound or a light sound and can you hear the intake roar

nowt wrong with crossing wire over as long as you do the cut wire trick, done it loadsa times and it works. the problem comes up if you have the bulb out warning lamps on dash that will cause it to show a bulb out

hi dont bother with wire to rear, simply cut wire feeding the bulb then take wire from otherside light and connect to where u cut it to bulb. job done should take 20 mins tops, the placcy floor plate lifts up when u take screws out

cant explain how to do it as youve got to get the cable wound up right but i went to a local cycle shop and bought 4m of brake cable inner, took off the offending cable that was frayed and made my own up total cost was