zorgman

cars going into limp mode, if this never happened before doing the starting fault go thru all the pipes. new one on the pipe tho is thermostat ok does the car overheat as in the best temp i get in this weather is just under the first mark

pull the vac pipe off and block it up or put a blanking plate on valve unit, never have that fault again

your alternator can cause this fault had it loads of times even tho its charging the diodes internal can leak putting load on the battery, try disconnecting it overnight, doubt its moble phone as it should be ign switched,

all of them, may be even the ecu internal hose feeding the map sensor as that goes all sticky and gooey, what hp us it as cant comment about turbos etc

what year car is it on?

deffo change the top bearing rubber bush unit and do springs as pairs give the nut agood dousing with plus gas or vinegar i dont rate wd40 far far too overrated

itll be a pwm unit you need pity your not in north east i could av cleared codes for you, always a major rule clear codes as you dont know what is new or old, i always clear codes and get them to come back next day so i can recheck them

the lambda could be starting to fail but there a heavy bus and 2.3 not the best on petrol just lift foot a bit off pedal, best tip is try not to let car tickover ie put seatbelt on and wait till everyone is in car then start and pull away

ask one question, would i do a constant 70mph with a diy repair bung in as opposed to a proper inserted from inside glued bung. i carry the instant fix as i cant change tyre but my tyre place say no probs just supply them with some petrol to clean inside when i get it fixed proper

be carefull as a mk1 gal 2.0l and 2.3l is not obd compliant you need a dedicated adapter to fit the ford to read the engine,on 1.9tdi's its pur vw. the handhelds dont do ford by memory u need a pwm or vpw unit, for engine and kkl for airbags and brakes, vag com the software will only work with vag vw aud group. which use kkl. for reading the engine the software is called scantool which is free. hope this saves you a load of grief

Total con its just a resistor ive got 10,000 of them could do with selling them even a tenner each what a scam that would be, ive even wrote a review on ebay about these rubbish "tuning chips/boxs

no his display must be working if he can see door open and temp so its down to the car electronics,

your cars going into limp mode do a search on here for it thers a guide on how to go on checking if i think on

the vac pipes are easy to spot their black cotton covered runner, . what hp is car 90 or 110

answer the sump seal its silocone or rtv (room temp vulcanizeing) i use clear silocone

had a good think about this and its got me puzzeled so first thoughts were motor wires wrong way round or the wires have been repaired incorrectly in door boots as windows are controlled by central unit with global closing. my simple fix would be pull motor out and switch the 2 wires on the windor motor but thats cheating my concern is the boot wiring id go there first and av a good look at it as ive seen many a bodge done with sellotape, masking tape etc. do the job proper as the wire is brittle where it snaps so chop back a bit either side use shrink wrap and solder joints

not your maf temp sensor can cause problem but its norm got code 575 for turbo

had a check on autodata, tis, handbook and haynes no mention of reinforced tyres ive got 225/50/17 on mine goodyears off a audi 2.7 twin turbo, its something to do with load capabilities of the tyre not the speed tho. 4 ply and 6 ply spring to mind, be cheeky go to frauds or somewhere av a look at tryes on a new motor

youv'e double posted and writing in red wont get answers any faster, ive gave you some tips in technical about fault

try this. over 30mph on a nice road put your foot under the clutch and lift it up then try cruise control see if it works done a few of these faults now. to fix it get a bit of plastic etc about 5mm thick put some super glue or similar on placcy bit clag it to the clutch pedal where the switch hits it, saves money and takes a few mins to fix. if not it needs to go on vag com so the sensors can be checked binary bits are 1 = on 0=off thatll pinpoint it, these main dealers are getting worse at thinking what the fault is rather than knowing what the fault is and its at your expense

hi, ill have the motor please if he dont want it as mines packed in cant find one anywhere for it, believe the d3 and d5 are same motor. to knock it out just unplug the fuse or the sensor on the wiper brace

i concour his having your pants down and under kegs and shirt off your back. millers do a good one also has a cetane booster in seen it at halfrauds and read very good article about it

check gap on your plugs

methinks that the egr valve is used only on over run cant fully remember but yes its called a smoke test on mot, yes just blank it off your engine will thank you for it and saves having to do a decoke on the inlet manifold. When i ported my heads and manifolds i blanked off both side and threw it in the bin, but just taking off the rubber pipe and putting a bolt in pipe to blank it will do, we should think our selves lucky that we have a vacuem egr not them horrible electric ones that renaults use poor bugger biggest rubbish on market the dci/hdi/jtd the amount of faults ive had to fix on them i would say 1 vag engine to 10 french etc always costs a fortune, guy ran out of diesel cost him 260 for pump and 4 recon injectors.