zorgman

yes thats the one looking at engine its a round multiplug to right on engine in a metal bracket. took me ages to fathom this fault when i done my cyl head good job i had tis for circuit diagram, no idea why it takes its earth from there but i think theres a 10mm bolt (m6) where the loop is fitted to

its the earths on the multi connector on engine chop all browns join together and earth em out for domr reason earth for clocks comes from there

yup one or both outer sheaths have wore thru happened to mine no point trying to fix them as the waters in now so inner cable is corroded leading to it siezing up, happened to both of mine

check the earth on the multi plug traced mine to a faulty earth there when my speedo went off go for the brown ones give a tug to check

hope you get somewhere and dont let them win

wrong clocks have been fitted to car by sounds your car is romping if i was you go back to stealers park car right in front of garage or entrance get manager out and blast him tell him u being stopped by police for speeding and its thier fault lay it on thick, the romping is caused by ecu not set up proper mine done it when i fitted bigger injectors in engine and i had to mess with ecu to stop it. did they fit new injectors if so 110hp into 90hp would cause the fault. at end of day the stealers have got your shirt off and sniffing your trousers (got your shirt off back and your pants down) i would really get on to them sending a car out in that state its illigal as your only allowed a max 10% of speed deviation on clocks so your car is in fact dangerous, cant see it passing emmisions either if its romping u need a diagnostics check on it. if you lived near sunderland id do it for you free as i hate main dealers, the only people ive met that know what you talking about is the old bloke that works in parts at both ford and vw as when i got started on gals/shazzas i had some odds and nds to sort and old bloke new more than "" vehicle technician""

your right sher nicked the thread 2 questions at same time ah well never mind, still reckon im right bout oil seals

agree with miraz you deffo need the aux heater on to get the cabin warm and the first heater the aux heats up is the rear heater, even in summer i struggle to get my car up to 80deg to do timing check so have to use aux booster heater to get temp up, less heat in cooling system means that the engine is working proper as the heat made by combustion is getting turned into power not waste heat

Thanks Zorgman, reason for inquiry was related to earlier post regarding speedo readings etc. It would appear that my clocks have been replaced without my knowledge,found out whilst re checking and then relpacing all vac hose :o after having a full engine (new) fitted from stealers!. Have also just found out that all 4 wheel sensors say 255kph, clear fault and drive vehicle and all 4 sensors say 0 kph, actual speedo reading still wayout ;) Could all be linked?, apart from letting stealers touch the car! I know, bit late now :o . Stealer unhelpful, theres a shock!,all uphill legally now! Did not say clearly in post vehicle is 1.9 TDI Se Auto Alhambra Sorry!, Could it be possible that they (stealers) did not assign/link clocks to vehicle???. I am mistified to what they did to warrant changing the clocks, I know there is going to be more to find :o Any more thoughts guy's? makes no odds on car but diesel and petrol cars read diff mph as i found this out when i did mine so u gotta have correct clock bank, sure the speedo is picked up from g/box, wouldnt worry bout speed sensors on wheels there for the abs/traction control so dont affect clocks. get a satnav to see how far your clocks are out. norm cars are approx 4mph fast now ive fitted 17in wheels my speedo is spot on. if i remember 2000 rpm is about 50mph never took alot of notice but in 5th im sure its about 25mph per 1k revs or near it some reasoni thk its 29mph to 1krpm hope this helps u out

ah well the decription below u describe is not a glow plug fault if it starts first time your describing oil seepage as excess fuel is white. glow plugs deffo dont affect mpg but temp does which you describe in second lot and also affects bad starting so thats what threw us off scent. its very hard to give a diagnostic of faults via net as unburnt fuel is white burnt oil is blue, long as your sorted out when starting car in the morning (starts first time) it starts to chug and give off lots of blueish black smoke for 2-3 min, but if i turn it off and start it back it runs alot smoother. it is only on the first starty of the day i get this problem, What can be the cause, Could it be temp sensor/glowplugs or timing problem !! also it is only giving me 360 miles to 55 litres of deisel.. (city miles) was giving me 440 miles In the recent cold weather, (I normally miss this as I am usually in Spain caravanning at this time of year) not only has the car been difficult to start but also would not pull below 2000 revs for some time whilst cold. The temperature up here on the Pennines has not been above 2-3C degrees recently.

the 99 tdi uses a d3wz heater and is auto resetting the diagnostics wire isnt connected up to main cor diagnostics, so just turning ign off resets it. its the mk2 from aug2000 that uses the d5wz which has to be reset. theres masses of info on here bout them ive even posted the instructions from erbspacher about these heaters, whats going on with it as ive got right into these an been buying them at scrappys to refurb and flog on ebay

ere u go done this thread yonks ago it should help you out http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=15193&st=0&p=123476&hl=7d0963319&fromsearch=1entry123476

no no dont buy a new starter its the bendix thats dry its doing no harm making the noise just take it off give it a good brush and a squirt of wd40 or sim never use oil tho its too thick and all the clutch dust clags to it, my mates gal being doing it for 2 years mines never done it but wont pay that much for one

also when taking car to back st garage ask if they know how to do dynamic timing if its a tdi upto aug2000 not needed after then as its a pd engine (no injector pump to time up)

not sure if you know but the heater has 3 12v feeds going to it, 12v constant, switched 12v from the alt and 12v off the temp sensor not sure how youve wired it up also is the electric water pump wired to run with the heater as if not itll cut out as water is not circulating

its an easy job tho fiddly u have to take off the door trim, the 2 torx screws on window clamp and full rubber trim/window guides take the glass bar off thats left then reassemble

id go for valve stem oil seals not plugs. a test is to get to 70 say take foot off accelerator for say 5 or so secs then back on watch mirror watch for big puff of blue smoke thats oil burning if its there not diesel as injectors are switched off on overrun. just watch your oil level as above

itll need bleeding, big fault on these motors as no prime bulb fitted so crack off the pipe on injectors one by one while cranking if all goes well itll only take a couple of injectors cracked open

before blaming relay do a check see if voltage is getting to plugs a simple bulb will do job, being an auto electrician when mine went i got a relaywith built in timer off a scrap xantia there a butch relay and run for 15 secs every start up, it doesnt affect the plugs still using same set i fitted 3 yrs ago, if you want to have glow plug light on longer it can be changed with vag-com

dont bother fitting pipe just blank it off and let the engine breathe itll thank you for it

Simples No just plug them in tho your miles will be incorrect and vagtacho dont do sharan/galaxy/alahmbra clocks

well u need battery that will fit under seat a split charging sytem if u only want to power heater or i would guess about 16mm cable to go to main battery rubber grommets a wacking big fuse personnaly i think its a waste of time just get a bigger ampearge main battery i use a 80a main and never a problem in the 3 years ive had car. also when choosing a bat look at the cca ive got 920amps. cca = cold cranking amps

have a look at this if you want info for pinouts etc same info for all years of car but one is 5kw other 3kw. No copyright infringment as its there for anyone to download and use tho you need adobe to read itHydronic D5WZ 25_2216 TD 06 2003 JE.pdf

dont even bother with dealers find a local erbaspacher dealer as they know what there talking about plus they sell/keep the parts in stock. the galaxy is a derivitive from the sharan so you need 2 types of reader vw for airbags, heater and abs, ford for the 2L and 2.3L engine otherwise use vw for other cars inc the alhambra. had a talk to vw dealer and all they do is swop whole unit over even tho they can get the parts. At moim talking to them to try to buy the pile of heaters they've got so i can refurb them and sell them on make a few bob for crimble

many thanks for replys, got one tracked down in a local scrappy that doesnt know what it is so only