zorgman

hi glad it helped. could you do me a favour please and have a look at the maf and tell me what the number is please, theres a big long number then a number underneath that as well. i got loads of mafs but got mine mixed up when i was playing with them and doing a diagnostic at same time just to see what difference it made to flow rate

i would go for your spark plugs, try the new ones by champion number EON1 fixed all my probs but whatever yo do dont go for cheap leads as i found out, what happens you do the plugs and push on the new leads and all is well but what happens is that the connector isnt locked onto spark plug terminal. it all works great then the intermittant misfire when on load starts (1000 miles with me) and slowly progresses to running on 2 or 3 cyls. when i removed mine the spark plug nipple was coroded as was the lead hence the misfire. i still changed plugs as a matter of course and used genuine leads which quality wise is major. hope it helps u out

is it me or is there no place to download the disk files

anyone had this fault before. starting up makes a wierd sort of farting blowing noise, when driving noise is there with normal throttle posiion but lift foot off and it goes. went right thru exhaust system and no leaks, have changed the cat to try it out same noise etc. sounds as tho its coming off exhaust but im unsure

hi my lamda reads 0.2 -0.8v fluctuating between the 2 having put my scope on it theres a nice rise and fall pattern to it. with regards now to engine noise its not there as the revs go up its from tickover to 2000rpm approx. the noise doesnt sound like a tappet as that should give off a ring sorta noise this is a deeper noise muffeld infact only thing i can think of is the oil pressure is low at tickover. now then ive had 5-30w oil in it ran it for a day and the noise was noiser, dropped that oil and put 15-40w oil in the noise is still there put not as bad. can you do the washer behind the pressure relief valve on these engines and if so where is it located to get at it

can you tell me what the lambda sensor reading should be on the diagnostics im sure last time i checked it, it was going up and down as it should be from memory approx .8 down to .1 or thereabouts the maf reading 4 gals sec

update on chain. so got it all pulled to bits and found the the chain tensionor guide had cracked the plastic guide on there also so to hell with it ive replaced all the bits apart from the chains, wacked it back together and chain noise now gone but still sounds as tho ive go noisey tappets even tho on inspection they seem to be ok, lad that helped me with job suggests that its a worn out injectors as it still has the flat spot that ive had since day one and lack of real grunt pulling power, i know its a 2l but it should have more grunt than its got.

just had a good poke about my engine and found that the tensioner blade was snapped, having spoke to a mate that worked on the 2.0l lump said that must change the tensioner unit as well. total cost to me from dealer

hi it still may be the controller, try this method which is proven to work on circuit boards. take unit out of car and remove the circuit board from the plastic box, give the board a rinse under warm water to remove the white fur that you get off rain water. now give it a good shake and blow off the excess water that is there (i use my compressor for this) now get a hair dryer without wife/girlfriend seeing and on the low setting warm/blow the moisture off untill its dry (this is a must) the board will be warm now so get hair spray from same room as dryer and give it a light spray. put back together and give it a try works nearly everytime i use this method for taxi radios that lie under seats that get wet

well i had a overheat on sat gauge went up to the m on norm and steam appeared from car had a look and felt top hose it was cold so ran both my heaters on full belt and down the temp came, got a new thermostat and wipped the old one out. first thing spotted was the stat was fitted wrong way round, second test at 100deg c it was still shut wereas new one wide open, now the car runs with needle on the N. now ive thought on that since i got the car last december its ran with the stat fault all the time and was purely the heaters keeping car cool

you dont say what year or type of galaxy. the box is under the "hidden" place under the front pass seat just lift up the panel and there it is held in by 2 10mm nuts

yes it works and ive got that control unit on bench. av alook for scootalarm listing as thats me if it dont work i give money back g/tee

ford scorpio 5 stud fit, audi 80 as well

hi well i know theres no air in system and the pedal is rock hard without engine. it concerns me that the servo is pulling the pedal way down to the point i can touch the floor. the brakes work fine and flew thru the mot its just i want the starting point of braking to be higher on pedal. ive not played yet but there is an adjuster on the pedal rod and no mention on the tis cdrom, anyone know what will happen if its adjusted please

i agree with the above as the engine has to be at operating temp 80deg c when they do the test thats why they have it ticking over, mine has never worked i took it off and binned it

yes i totally aggre and giving some major thought into it, i may try the lpg route as iv tracked one down at a scrappy for

the gearbox by what ive learnt is a vw unit called vtx75, via tis there all the same the engine is a modified ford lump to fit the box out of a scorpio. but non are interchangabe. im looking into the box see if a golf box is same

hi well thats answered the question thanks guys it must just be be as andrew t has the same exactly new master cyl. ive pressure bled them 3 times the ford way as in tis but still lots of travel. suppose ive been spoilt for last 7 years ive been driving diesel xantias, oh if that engine and brakes where in a galaxy it would be heaven. anyhow had a look at the brake pedel and noticed that there is a adjusting bar so methinks ill mark its length and play with it see if i can get the pedel higher when the brakes start to work.

heres the test with my brakes. no engine on and pump pedal it goes rock hard as it should with pedal at top engine on the pedel seems to travel 2/3 its full travel so its right down. my brakes are spot on but dont like all this travel ive got, any thoughts are is this just the way gals are

thought that one as well but the petrol lump has 180k on her tappts are noisey so thought it would be cheaper the diesel route

hi all cant afford to run my 2l gal so its a derv engine going in. ive ruled out the ford lumps as they use a mtx75 box shafts etc are all different. now the looking at a gal in a showroom its a vedub unit i suspect out of a golf etc which happens to use the vtx box, my question is what golf or other vw is the lump out of as im trying to find one that doesnt use a ecu just a normal mechanical pump etc would save me hours of time doing all the wire work. yes i hear you all say buy a diesel gal well i cant afford to. i need a mpv so im stuck with petrol at mo

hi gauys just looked at that picture and lo and behold ive got that box here in my workshop it was the writing on box that gave it away (bab). ive checked out this mod and what it does is gives out the lock pulse to the door only. small world eh i got it out of a galaxy 2.8 at my local scrappy

many thanks for answers never thought of the hatch part but ill check out clearance with my sony units see how the measure up

got my gal sorted at long last now its time to fit my 1000w amp but wheres best place for my 6x9's any body fitted a set please

mines (2.0L) got 175k on clock with noisey tappets but i just live with it. it may be down to the oil type used, what has happened is that in th tappet there are small holes which have got blocked. dont believe ive found anyone that has had success with these treatments. dont no what that means high on lambda surly if the car is low on emmisions thats right, did you not get the printout for the test.