zorgman

got to be a ford unit obd reader the vw only reset the srs unit

motors burnt out caused by the shafts siezing have a read on the faqs tells u how to do it

hi its held in by a plug that uses a lever on it and works on a slide so u pull the lever the plug slides and u remove it by pulling the bit closest to u the unhooking the other end bit of a slaver on but u sharp see what i mean

can you tell me what the diference is on them please as they look the same

hi well my head has bent valves and ive been offered a head off a audi 80 eng code 1z my engine is a afn are they the same ive had a look at the head gaskets and they seem the same, can anyone confirm for me please.

totally agree its the turbo, went thru the lot on mine new pipes thruout even inside the ecu done all the valves the lot pulled off the turbo and the arm was sticking so the best way is take turbo off buy a tin of oven cleaner and spray it in the exhast part of turbo till it froths take the actuator link off and work the small arm it will be stiff but keep at it till its moves smooth, carefully rinse out with warm water and put some oil in give turbo a spin the repeat the cleaner then rerinse use a hair dryer or a hot air gun to warm it up and get oil into it again the arm should just flop now put arm back on refit to car job done instant power now and yo should here the turbo whistle in ehaust. hope the helps

the earth for the dash is in engine compartment on the multi way connector just to the left of battery nice big round connector, had same fault with mine and traced it to the plug i just chopped all wires that went to earth and remade them direct to earth not thru connector. worked first time

check the dimmer control on your light switch block

hmm ill check more into the timing but its rock solid just above the ctr line in vag com. Cars got masses of power due to 216 injectors i fitted hoping that would fix it but was exact same tho give it a healthy boost in power. im giving it major thought on selling it but its not a rust bucket and i would classify it from mint upwards

deffo not alt or flywheel, this noise ill describe as the combustion noise more the mechanical rattle etc only there when using throttle, i do know tdi's are noisey but mines in the extremes. gonna give another go at it if not is going journey, shame realy as its a fully loaded sharan

hi all. right then my 1.9tdi 110hp is still not right to the point i now hate driving it but cant afford a change of motor. have done the world to the engine but its still very high on noise levels and just isnt smooth, not able to check against another tdi i can only assume its got a fault, it sounds just like a tranny van and im not happy with that. ive rebuilt the whole top end with new parts, timing i spot on with vw tools then vag-com, all mounts are spot on, pistons have been checked inc bearings. so any one a suggestion to quiet the bugger down many thanks laurie

done mine last year, go to vw agent and ask to look at the heater on pc u can see the 2 gaskts, when u do gaskts clean the lot up. hard here to give lots of info as typing while flatt on hospital bed

vwdub dealer sells a kit i think its

hi all (99 1.9 tdi) just done my cyl head for second time and after all back together had no instrument panel, the rev,mph dead, fuel and water half gauge. so checking diagrams ive found that vw in thier wisdom have got the earth wire into that multi connector on rh side of block going in to that then earth. simple fix on it tho. locate the brown wire and splice onto it taking a new wire to the bolt that has the earth wires on it at front of mount, and thats it simple but a little fiddly due to lack of room, still got no speedo but its the same fault wire has broken/corroded in the big connector, just jump wires accross or cut them out and make off new ones. hope this helps someone

hi all valve snapped at the exact point where the collets go valve dropped in engine and wrecked the exhaust valve seat which is beyond repair. so what i need to know is A why did it happen B are all tdi heads inc valves the same as i can get a head which is off either the 1.9 1Z or ahu not sure of the exact engine but i do know its a 90hp head. dont want to put head on if theres a dramitic difference in them. as a bynote while heads off i cleaned the turbo it seemed fine on movement on the car but was sticking vanes once i removed the vac unit

no probs fitting switch its on here how to do it. methinks you dont have a pump i know mine hasnt

no special tools needed just normal belt system on it

easy fix do a search on here its been covered using brake cable off a pushbike

hi all reason head was rebuilt was due to cam belt problem and it bent the inlet valves but i changed the lot just in case. all valves were intact so nowt down exhaust. im going to pull the rocker box off sat as im convinced that something is amiss with n#1 cly as its a noisey engine, a test i done was coming down a bank i turned ign off in gear and still had the same rattle i had wether driving it or not. poking about with my stethoscope its got more rattle on 1 then gets softer as i go to 4. checked on the injectors and rocker cover same sounds. with regards to the fault 00575 i used my plug in tester for ease but will do it with vag com to get exact results.

hi all sharan 1.9tdi afn 110 engine 99 plate well its getting to the point that the vw afn engine is the worst in the world for faults so see if u can help me out. head completly rebuilt all new except cam. new belts. timed basic and with vag-com all vac pipes changed new pipe to ecu inc internal one new n75 diode mod to map sensor (4.3v zenner) so it cant go over 4.3v. tried diode mod on maf. new maf. i think ive covered everything here. the car is gutless and keeps going into limp mode throwing code 00575. whats left that can do this fault also noticed and a new problem is wehen cars hot ie a 30mile run i had to wind engine for at least 10secs before it started. when i rechecked belt timing it was 1 tooth out which retarted the pump but using vagcom ive got it spot on the centre line. instant start when cold and gutless but very little engine noise once warm tho it gets louder engine noise. im thinking that somewhere along the rebuild something has happened as when driving you can here what ill describe as diesel knock so coming down bank in 5th gear not as noisey so turned key off still in gear and its still there so can it be A the cam is useless as it was pitted. B has the new lifters failed. anything please as im now sick of motor just that ride outr and my right foot is tingling due to the vibration etc off engine

just checked and my grinder pin tool is the exact size to fit the holes so saves me making it up. thanks again

just the job ill set about making it up now many thanks

anyone got the dimesions of the brake rewind tool for the rear brakes so i can make one up. many thanks

i concur big ends. try find a hill and drive up it to put load on car if noise gets louder its big ends

retimed my sharan yesterday found pump and cam was 1 tooth out, cleared all fault codes and its ran great. i know my pump timing is still slighty retarted but ill get to that soon it takes yonks to get car upto temp. anyhow tonight it went into limp mode yet again my reader gives error 00519 MAP Sensor - Out of Range -G71. where is g71 as i cant find it anywhere. as a footnote ive changed nearly all the vac lines and the boost pipe that goes into ecu also new pipe in there as well. anyone help please