zorgman

on the busbar you'll find 2 cables going into it so it splits the load you can cut the 2 wires then feed 2 plugs per wire using bullets asyou describe

good thought welcome to the forum but do it the correct way. you know the way car drives now so wait untill its got a bit heat in then turn engine off and unplug the multiplug on the maf its that wierd tube comung off the airfilter, now drive car see if theres any difference if it drives the same mafs dead if it drives worse mafs ok so replug in with ign off.

well ! since you ask, bearing in mind the car (diesel) has done in excess of 200,000 miles every now when going down the motorway 60/70 mph the engine loses power for a split second, a puff of smoke out the back and all again is smooth. My heart stops catches up , I breathe quickly for an instant and all is again is smooth ! CHECK CONNECTOR ON PUMP and the electric window don't work (passenger) POSS WIRE BREAK IN DOOR RUBBER and the central locking failed then the driver's door lock mechanism broke and fell inside the door ! SCREWS WERE SLACK AND POSS BLOWN FUSE and the stereo loses its settings everytime I turn the ignition off ! 2 FEEDS TO STEREO CONSTANT LIVE WHICH IS MISSING DID LOCK AND RADIO GO SAME TIME AS ABOVE but it is a (F)ix (O)r ®epair (D)aily lol And next please roll up roll up :ph34r:

go for ebay kits i swear by them the 4 sensor with full digital readout are mint used them now for 4 years and still work great vey accurate as well

cut off goeas to 12v when ign on pulling in soloniod so black lead to block red lead to valve, its the one on the pump on the right hand edge above the pipes going to injectors

well my vw/audi dealer walk round bent over backwards there that good, ford well i get more sense out of my dog never being to the seat dealer but ill try them as got a nasty click coming off the nearside engine/gearbox mount which is dealer part only, motor factors i only ever go to NPA great lads they know me and deliver to my door if need be. its the case of if i could afford it i would get my car done ad dealers that price is excellent for winder ass and as ever buyer beware when buying off ebay always check your prices first. Aux heater plugs come to mind all made by beru but very varying prices

bugger was hoping for a real head scratcher

test your valve has power by using a test lamp or meter as soon as ign is switched on it gets 12v for 3-5 secs then shuts off when u crank engine 12v comes back and will stay there if engine runs, no 12v then take off the wire and run 12v from battery u must remove the car wire off pump. if you have a start off engine its that stupid multiconnector at fault make sure that wire going in comes out at other side being known wires moved in plug or socket if need be what ive doneis cut wires one by one and remake off with proper terminals i always solder and shrink wrap

bet the same person said your maf was faulty as well the usual weekend mechanic. nah but serious its works the same as a soloniod on starter 12v in makes a magnectic field pulling the iron shaft in as theres one way valves it can only pump one way

oh yes it does the pipe from intercooler up to inlet manifold which is black was white off acid and a hole burnt into it i believe its polycarbonate ive got it somewhere ill foto it and upload to prove it

buy a gates belt kit better than genuine never ever had a problem and gates make the best belts in the world, look at any harley see whats on the back and thats a lot of power going thru it

you cant check timing on a pd engine with vagcom as no pump to move, if the car didnt have these faults before sounds like a timing issue but as yet not worked on a pump duese so only thing would be get the dynamic timing checked nie does all the marks line up as the cam "floats" and can be half tooth out which can cause the above fault,

ta mirez just the answer i wanted ill av dash out when this man flu goes had it a fortnight (sodding flu shot)and rip a dump out of it. its yonks since i had a play with dumps. my display has oil temp. can i use clip to read/write or is it chip off. off subject how do add intrests on left side i cant find

if battery has been leaking due to being knackered it drips acid onto boost pipe plastic and eats a hole into it worth a look

christ 10k in 6 years your engine must be mint, dont forget filters if there not changed also the 2 belts aux and pump belts will need doing if same age

what normally goes is the wire snaps wraps round a pulley and that keeps window up, cost me

blank egr off your car will thank you for it, doesnt affect emission or owt detrimental to engine but car can breath proper, easy way is a m6 bolt (10mm) in vac pipe and thats it but mines fully gone with blank plates

bet it cures the knock, while your waiting for links give the nuts top and bottom a spray of release fluid every day as 10 to 1 thier siezed. vagcom dead easy to use av a look at link below, give u a bit to read up on. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

just been in BM store they sell a cetane booster adds up to 4 cetanes for

deffo change pump for sake of

your spot on :) :) thats who im waiting for

quicky here and i reckon i know who'll answer. on the early mk1 fords with the memory's i sure it gave out miles left in tank can i put them clocks in my 99 sharan or to the point is it worth it, was it accurate as my son uses the car and 3 times ran out of derv ( he hates putting juice in thinks its great as its a free car) or better still anyone got an eeprom dump of control so i can dump it in mine after i correct the milage

had my sharan for 3 years and during summer decided to fix the sills where idiot had jacked up car but flattened the lip that sticks down. So out with mole grips hammers etc and found due to the way it had been crushed that water ahd sat there and rotted away some of the sill making it an mot fail, so mig in hand corrected the rot with new plate etc and job done but not the look as it was front and back both sides and looks crap, you can buy oversills to fix it from vw but cost approx

ooooooohhhhhhhhhhh i like this question now trying to think why its doing it ill get diagrams up see what i can find as youve ruled out switch and resistor pack plus motor, they use different fuses and i cant think of any wires going to heater near the brake pedal. if your near sunderland nd get stuck giz a shout be most happy to help you owt

i agree with above its a never ending stream of help but no thanks, my pet hate at mo is aux heaters and blame the maf. im a auto electrician, fully approved electrician and computer technician but retired now due getting cancer which has took out my bones and i havn't got strentgh to do out mechanical now but i do enjoy giving help when its needed but please always use the search button its all there just a bit reading needed