zorgman

just found out that when im in cruise control mode if i press button it speeds up by 1mph if i keep it pressed in the car accelerates like mad till i leave go. so av look in your handbook see if this is documented please as ive never had one to look at

take pipe off underneath at the T joint where the aux heater pump is. out of daftness get a tin of easystart and run motor with that to get things going, got a niggle in back of head that this is not fuel related but timing problem just doesnt make sense that it just cut out as tank would be warm off returned fuel so not a gelling problem. symptoms you describe is fuel but if its smoking means fuel is getting there but at wrong time. id not do nowt untill you check your timing as if its out its a head off job. btw pug/cit engines of the direct injection type will run on owt, brill engines xud is engine code if i think on

double post

there ain;t any its a pin goes thru pully into back plate, theres 2 types both time the same way tho

id go for flywheel dmf unit as you think, is it only at pull away or say accelerating in 3rd or something when clurch is fully locked

take unit out and on side theres a number starting with m i think look about the net and theres loads of free radio decode software if not post the details direct to me and ill give you the code

dont bother if you do the odd high speed runs itll not need it as gets engine upto temp and blows cobwebs away. if you want to try it go to a local b&m store they sell the stuff for

Simples Yes both same size fitting

so thats what its made of, fish oil. never had any joy using any penetrating fluid on market so i stick with my 15p bottle of asda vinegar works a treat acetic acid works mint. whatever you do dont try to adjust the internal bolt stroke length as its factory set

hold the bit before it goes into the balancer with mole grips, handbrake should be fully on with 6 clicks

dont use it even the aux heater wont work proper

what hp is it 90 or 110, sound about right your turbo aint working, get a diagnostic on it and go from there

forget about noise perfectly normal on any pump when at max load, your mechanic was telling you the truth

dont buy one they strip down and clean up dead easy. remowve switch by turning it and pull out, little clips hold it in you'll find its two switches in one, one for brake lights one for cruise control. should take about 15mins to do job

needs adjusting as its too slack if that dont work get a new one

your going into limp mode av a look in the stickeys tells you how to clean turbo

you need to get head off to check for damage first, bit silly buying 8 valves when umay only need 3, npa motor factors keep everything in bar hydraulic tappets which company on ebay beat prices. you also need cam and pump lock tool and a torque wrench, stupid silly price there giving you to do a simple job. sorry i cant help u out more but bit of a distance tween us

deffo mot fail, you need it read to find which sensor is acting itself. funny tho mine comes on when its wet all down to the airgap on my offside rear wheel but abs still works when lights on as tried it in last lot of snow

oops mk1's use a d3wz the mk2 use d5wz but the d5 wont work 100% on d3 fuel pump. Never ever run a tdi with bio diesel if you run the aux heater as it screws it up and thats direct from erbaspacher heres a link have a read up on them tho d5z doesnt shoiw up http://www.espar.com/www/espar.com/tech_manuals/Hydronic%204-5/Hydronic%20D5Z/Hydronic%20D5WZ%2025_2216%20TD%2006%202003%20JE.pdf

only works from his garage in sunderland so its gonna av to be someone local with a bit savvey on tdi's. when you do your garage checking out ask if they know how to time engine dynamical and what they use as its only vagcom that will do it. If they dont know walk away and try again

i would think rear loom be the same or easy to mod but deffo not front loom if in doubt give it a go. how come your loom needs changing normally only the door links cause problems

yes its a vw tdi engine. head job off im afraid, the hydraulic tappet is punctured so new set of them

yup 120amp with heated seats etc

i reckon if noise is from nearside its the gearbox mount mine clicks and clacks on accelerate and slow down. its the one under the battery tray, haven't done mine yet as far too cold to muck about with car

nope not your maf its going into limp mode if you switch off and restart does power come back, maf is blamed for all sorts of faults even down to non starting the poor thing, engine codes will be ahu or afn or 1z, on the tdi badge has it got a red i ie TDII, norm its the afn 110 engine that does the limp mode due to varible vanes wheras the 90hp uses a waste gate and dont suffer limp mode good way to find its power is go onto a insurance quote site and itll tell u its power when it asks for the reg number