zorgman

yes fuses do wear out, i know it sounds daft but try going up one fuse step ie if its 10a go to 15a

lift sensor is on injector 2 from gearbox side, engines like approx 250rpm to start, have a look at rev ctr see what its cranking at, if it dont start recharge bat see what happens

lets get this right first. on pump theres 2 bolts that fasten from pulley side to pump, then on pump side one at lower rear and one at front so thats 4 in total, are we talking about the bolt that you can see at front of pump. the 2 bolts coming from pulley side into pump go into a metal bracket so if only the front one has gone i wouldn't worry about it, if there's any part of the flange left a chunk of 3mm bar with bolt would keep it in place the pump timing cant move due to other bolts and pumps deffo not going anywhere. ive got a pump off a 1z 90hp engine if your totally stuck and need one its no use to me as ive got a afn 110 lump. the pipe you refer to is that the plastic see thru pipe coming from the filter. get a bar see if the pump moves mark position first just in case. where did the pipe break as if pump was moving in any direction you need to tighten bolts up. i doubt that that the pump is moving at all otherwise your timing would move and engine would be knocking brains out if advanced or poor starting if retarded. thinking as i type and if that was my car i wouldnt give it 2 thoughts about 1 bolt as theres your 3 others keeping it in place and its rotary load placed on pump not shear load

do you get a buzz from dash when trying to start car, when u crank it have a look at rev counter as tdis like to crank approx 250rpm to fire, also check your glowplugs for supply and see if they work. check under passenger seat see if its wet and have a check for a black box as that controls the windows if it has 3 plugs its also the alarm unit which could stop it starting

my tdi is 25mph

what your talking about is oil emulsification caused by short runs and lack of heat to evaporate water vapour that occurs naturaly in engine, first off check your pipe work for engine breathing goes from engine block to rocker box to air filter, egr valve has nowt to do with it as it only allows exhaust gas into intake manifold for emissions blank it off your engine will thank you for it. years ago the hillman hunter had major problems with this fault the trick was to stick under carpet felt on rocker box cover to help heat it up which stopped it

well crossed wires here so gi a clue or is it a secret engine type which pump im going to guess that now its a petrol and the pump your on about is the secondry air injection pump that feeds the cat to help it warm up. at end of day forget about it it wont affect the car as it only runs for first 2 mins of startup, it may flag up up a fault but dont worry about fault as it wont flag up the ecu and its mainly used for emmissions but only on a stone cold engine. my mates ran one for 4 years without pump and no problems with car

blank it or plug it ive ran mine for 3 yrs no problems at all, giz your

check the seals on top of pump as its vacuum so leaks there will stop it grafting,

take a guess its your droplinks need changing dead common fault

engine mout under battery tray wishbone rubbers is it when you accelerate then brake

you have checked by aligning the engine correctly by the crank timing marks etc

its on the gearbox, you could try putting a new earth on the clocks multiplugs see if it works that the brown ones, plenty of metal behind clocks to get at for gnd

right then get some vinegar and put that round the glow plug itll help to move it im thinking here as i ran a montego years ago with a snapped off glow plug and it never caused any probs the motor will start on 3 plugs, av a check see if its leaking by starting engine and using a some oil or something see if it leaks if not your fine

The N108 is responsible for advancing the fuel injection pump thats why ford dont know it as its on the pump itself, my thoughts is that you need to get vagcom onto it with engine running and check the timing, i think you;; find your pump timing way out, this is caused by the belt jumping or the crank sprocket moved or at worst the pump is on its last legs at end of day DO NOT drive it as if the belt has slipped itll take out your valves which is more money

yes they do my mates running some on his galaxy, and good thinking with the spigot bushes as not many people know about that

It's a big ''thanks'' from me zorgman for your help (in someone else's post) regarding ''knocking metallic noise from front of car"...garage initially couldn't source it...you suggested ant-roll bar at wheel...you were quite correct! Garage now replaced it and infernal knocking and my sanity are cured! THANKS :rolleyes: Your very welcome, i love helping out and them 2 little words mean a lot

im still putting switch in thats no problem as dont want it used during summer as shorted out sensor, just going to put switch onto main feed off fusebox as cant be bothered to run cables thru bulkhead, using timer as son borrows car and not bothered about derv so auto switch will sort it out. keeps me thinking what else can i next

i take it that its a usb interface so have you installed the ftdi drivers that came with it if not download them if your stuck ill hunt them down and post a link

i use a evry mod on my 99 tdi makes one hellava difference in power also chokes them behind me with a blake smoke screen but mine a homemade switchable, gleamed all the info off tdi forums where peops are getting 200bhp+ outa golf tdis (rabbits in states i think) it works by overfueling the pump and consists of a 0.005p resistor which is connected in pump delivery ecu, im not saying to do it but ill post the info here from site if you wanna play at your own risk as it can take your clutch out due to extra power or flange engine if not in good state of service etc.

out of intrest im getting some run on pups and heaters outa some merc sprinters so will av a play fitting one to mine see if it makes any difference, alsonext job is using a slightly modded rear screen heater relay timer to shut off aux heater after 10mins as iv noticed that after 10mins driving cars hot enough for engine to do its own heating also will save some derv. spec reckons 0.65L per hour which all adds up now its hit

the ecu cuts off supply to stop sol after 5 secs after ign switch on but puts supply back on soon as you crank or the ecu senses that the engine is turning if it didnt no bump starts. bit awkward to solder the female bullets on unless you can remove some of the insulation but males no prob always better to use a correct size crimp tool

same as mine up the door seal then little panel on right off and tucked wire in small gap at windscreen/dash so display is smack in centre of window on dash

since going from the nor 165/65/15 tyres upto 235/45/17 my speedo is now deadly accurate by gps, better handling and no increase in road noise, never bothered with tyre loading as tyres go up to 186mph off an 2.7 twin turbo. im trying to find my handbook see what it says about load rating

vagcom cant do timing on a pd engine but it can check maf, by sounds the maf is dead as its no better/worse when plugged in, cheap ones work but better to get a bosch unit but not off ebay as lots of copies on there. Go to a motor factor at lease youll have a g/tee