chrispb123456

Has oil and filter been changed regularly? if it has check oil pressure with a gauge if possible if that's not possible just fit a new switch. Does the engine sound smooth when revved up from tickover? no rattly tapping noise.

is the smoke from the exhaust at rear of car, or look under the passenger back door----is it from a small,straight exhaust pipe??? if so its the auxilary heater doing its thing !! you would see it do it if its a cold day and the heater switches itself on to help warm up the car for you. As said booster heater usually a new glow plug will cure the problem, lots of help and advice about this on the forum.

Try running Vagcom while someone drives car for you, have a look at engine readings, you may have one cylinder out of spec. Has it already left any fault codes for engine?

Hi there If you say the level had been OK and no pressure in the system when cold, and now over the last few months is showing signs of losing water and still under pressure when cold I would say you have early signs of gasket failure, or cylinder head has cracks. The rise in pressure when the engines hot will return to zero when cold there should be no gurgling or hissing when cold.

Problem is when you drain the fluid you will only get out about half the fluid as you cant drain the torque converter, so in order to get clean looking fluid in the box you need to drain and refill it three times (with a drive in between) you cannot change the filter on the five speed without stripping box. I used Mercon V fluid at a cost of

Hi A cable tie works for me across the middle of the joint, you could also try super glue, or amalgamation tape.

Nearly forgot what me right hands for :wacko:

Yep that sounds exactly right, the set and resume buttons double as + and - when in cc so every press of the button will increase or decrease by 1MPH or as you said when you keep it pressed will rise or fall rapidly, just for your info most trucks when stationary with handbrake on and in neutral the + button will also raise the engine tickover.

Here's a photo out of the manual for the AFN, AHU engine Timing for the cam is from the flywheel end of camshaft, pump sprocket is by pin through sprocket and backplate, crank by notch on flywheel, Don't forget there's no keyway on cam and pump sprockets so you need to check pump timing dynamically as Zorgman has mentioned, I believe it can be done with Vagcom but not done it myself

Have a nice one :)

Hi and welcome to the forum. Have a look at the wiring on the drivers door gaiter the wires can get frayed and bare causes all sorts of problems. Here's a link to detailed repair. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=10371&view=findpost&p=82231

IIRC fuse 32 causes them problems

Wouldn't think MAF if it's worse when disconnected, sounds like turbo is overboosting which could be sticking turbo vanes, you need to get under the engine see if you can move the turbo actuator rod the limit of it's travel, it's a tough spring on it so be prepared with a peice of rag to avoid sore fingers. Also check inside EGR valve as this gets clogged up with soot.

IIRC yours is a MK1 that means you don't have a pump in the tank, the fuel injection pump draws the fuel from the tank.

Hi Tim and welcome to the forum :) straight in with a signature thats what we like to see B)

Hi Jim I think you would probably struggle to get the pipes on wrong, there is an arrow on the plastic valve that fits in the top of the filter this should face the rear of the car. Have sent pic of mine so you can compare.

Hi Jim Just to confirm pump not working take fuel filter inlet pipe off then switch on ignition, you should get a momentary squirt of fuel from the pipe, if you don't then the pumps not working. This may be caused by faulty relay 109 in the third layer of the fuse box, try giving it a tap, or may be the pump itself.

Hi Jim The MK 2 has an electric lift pump in the tank as well as the the mechanical pump, can you hear the squelch type noise when you first turn the ignition on?

The door gaiters are the rubber trunking that carries all the wiring from the car body to each individual door and tailgate, the wires break and chafe with the constant opening and closing.

Think I would start with cleaning or replacing plugs and make sure all plugs are giving a good spark wouldn't think you have a relay problem if its turning over, you can smell petrol and have a spark? Is the battery fully charged?

Crankshaft sensor is located to the right of the oil filter.

In that case check for spark at the plugs as you may have a dodgy coil pack

Hi welcome to the forum Check all your vacuum pipes for splits/perishing you might also find this link useful http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089

Oh dear you don't make it easy :5: am going to guess and say faulty relay 30 as thats quite common. Could you not get someone with an ounce of knowledge to confirm whether the starter is operating or not :)

Hi and welcome to the forum So are you saying the starter is turning the engine over but it's not firing or just nothing happens (no starter noise) I take it this is a 2.3 petrol model