chrispb123456

Most likely turbo vanes sticking or faulty (N75)control valve, from under the car can you move the turbo actuator rod its full extent? Also remove the air charge pipe from the EGR valve see how badly clogged up as this wont help either You need to give it a good thrashing every now and then, this is known as the Italian tune up. Get some weight in the car and with engine up to normal operating temperature drive car at 4000 rpm in third gear (uphill preferably) and hold it at that as long as possible, repeating it a few times.

You should have your hand primer pump connected to the supply from the tank not the return pipe, in other words remove the pipe from the tank on the fuel filter connect that pipe to the inlet on your primer then the outlet of primer onto filter then pump away.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Sounds like seized linkages read this link. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=7338&view=findpost&p=82520

Hi and welcome to the forum These wiper motors will stop to avoid damage when a heavy load is put upon it, linkage seizing is a common problem. Spindles need to be removed and cleaned up and regreased. can either be done in situ or take the whole wiper linkage off complete. I prefer to take whole thing off and change pollen filter at same time which is a bugger to do otherwise. Do a search on here it's all been covered before with some good pics.

Hope it works for you, personally I would still be wary of any engine that's been constantly overheating, give it some hard motorway driving to make sure before the weather gets to hot.

Yes the plastic around the sensor is coloured you may have to clean it off to see it.

Hi there You haven't mentioned anything about coolant loss or overheating so hopefully no other damage has been done. The water pump comes as a complete unit which will require removal of timing belt which should also be replaced. Temp sensor should have come up on diagnostics but not the pump, the sensor is easy to change (remove clip and pull out) although access is awkward (behind engine under fuel pump) they are colour coded make sure you get the same. You also have an electric water pump (run on pump) also check this is working, it's located on the bulkhead behind the fuel filter and you should hear it humming for about 3 minutes after switching off engine, it's job is to prevent hot spots and to aid circulation through rear compartment heater and allow booster heater to operate without overheating. When you say sluggish to start are you saying the starter is turning the engine over slower than usual, or is the engine turning over normally but not firing/starting? Rear screen heater is probably broken wiring in the gaiter from the body to the tailgate (common fault) Very rough guide from factors Water pump

Check the senders to see whether they go to earth or not when engines running, and when not running.

Check out engine mountings and stabiliser and while underneath have a look at driveshafts and joints.

Has yours got a throttle position sensor, not fitted to all engines, if it has you will find it on the opposite side of the throttle housing where the throttle cable is attached if it has check out the wiring multiplug for dodgy wiring and connectors. This may be the problem with the high revving.

If your not topping up the coolant then it cant be a leaking matrix, Windscreen wash smell can be drawn in usually after using W/washers then goes after a few minutes, you could try one of those aircon cleaner aerosols you set off in the car, you set heater controls onto recirculation and place can in front footwell, the cleaner is drawn into the heater unit and out through the vents removing any bacteria smells. As for removing the dash to change the pollen filter, dont think so, it's accessed from engine compartment after removing bulkhead extension (3 bolts)

In that case this is what you need

Hi and welcome to the forum I noticed you referred to the galaxy as a van is that normal in the states? there was a new member on here a few months back in America with a galaxy van, not having seen a van version of a galaxy thought it may have been converted, in the UK a vehicle with no side windows and no rear seats is called a van solely for transport of goods. We call the galaxy an MPV, multi purpose vehicle. Any way there is a lot of knowledge and help on the forum look in the FAQ's in technical section most common problems have been covered before. Chris.

Hi and welcome to the forum Can you give us your engine code, if this is a 2004 car then it's a TDI. codes will be like AUY. ASZ. ARL which is it?

Thats for a MK1

Hi there Take plugs out have a look at colour of them, they should have a light brown colour, if you can give it a compression test while there out, should all be about 150 to 180 psi if the plugs are dirty oily colour then your burning the oil.

Hi again One of these will do. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6

Hi and welcome to the forum Would be useful to see if any faults are logged, sounds like you may have a faulty temperature sensor this sends signals to the engine ECU and also works the temperature gauge this can cause the high tickover when cold. Slow warm up in winter may be due to booster heater not working (commom problem) As for the MAF that may also be faulty as you have said it dont make any difference if connected or not. So to summarise get youself a VAGcom lead + software or maybe a member near you will do a scan for you see what comes up, there's lots help on here or you can do a search or look in the FAQ's

Hi There You could just change compressor and not re gas, the clutch will not engage without gas pressure in the system although not recommended if you decided at a later date to re gas.

Hi there Am not saying all the garage gauges are showing incorrect readings, but they are open to abuse from the general public, if you keep a small hand held pressure gauge in the car at all times just as a back up/double check. Also remember you should only check your pressures when tyres are cold, as pressures will rise automatically after a run.

Hi again Will need to know your engine code eg, ANU, AUY, ASZ, ARL. and do you have the digital display panel or the three knobs controling heating. You will need to PM me your email address to send it.

Hi The MK1 & 2 are Volkswagen Audi Group,except the 2.0 and 2.3 engines as they are Ford engines. The MK3 is all Ford

Hi and welcome to the forum Start off by checking for broken/chaffed/shorting wiring in drivers door gaiter. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=8401&view=findpost&p=64104 Also check for any blown fuses.

Hi there and welcome to the forum I can send you a diagram of relay 430, but am curious as to why you would want/need to do that. This is not a straight forward system for controlling the fans a lot of other circuits are wired through this relay (has about 12 terminals on it) and rely on it to work correctly.

Maybe previous owner has snapped something off in there, so you might just get radio out using three, you may have to bend one.