chrispb123456

Dont forget in the powershift model, theres no clutch, so driving as a "manual" car, really is dead easy Actually there are two, it's really a glorified manual transmission with electronic gadgetry, becoming more popular than the old auto with torque converter

You said the head gasket was definitely gone when you removed it, at the point where the gasket had blown look at the head carefully, you should see tell tale marks this can be pitted marks or even eaten away. As it was OK for a short while after replacing gasket would suggest heads not cracked, just not making a good seal.

Are you sure it's not just the head needing refacing (skimming), did you check the surface of the head with a straight edge and feelers.

Is it manual or auto, this would help

You mean like this, excuse the dust on the dash :lol: So many things influence this, I live pretty close to motorway and don't do a lot of town driving, having said that I do struggle to get it past the 40 MPG where on the MK2 it was fairly easy.

Hi Zorgman Am trying to PM you but you don't appear to have messaging switched on.

Yep if the glow plug light is flashing a fault code will be logged, scan with Vagcom.

The dash clocks are removable once the trim surround is removed, there are 4 capless bulbs the same ones as used in front side lights.

As far as I know a how to on engine removal has not been done as it's not something that comes up that often. There will be a haynes manual available in May for the MK2 currently there's only the MK1 available which doesn't include PD engines, other than that you can get the TIS disc from ebay. As for replacing the 115 with 130, there are other differences beside the ECU certainly radiator and mounting and fan control electronics may cause problems after install.

Harpster Am not an expert in these graphs, looks to me like only a few seconds of graph which is not conclusive although EGR in the first looks like it's working correctly. I will PM you.

Hi Steve That's bad luck with the engine, think about this before you strip this engine, why did it run out of oil? is it because it's using/burning oil, not been serviced oil/filters changed etc, is there evidence of oil leakage, leaking turbo seals can leak causing the engine to rev uncontrollably, usually ending in a loud bang, also consider the turbo bearings would also have suffered damage through no oil pressure. I would seriously consider a good secondhand complete engine with turbo and seen/heard running before you buy if possible.

Appreciate you may be busy with other interests Glen but it can be very frustrating and even annoying to the more senior members of the forum when you don't reply to messages sent, you still have a lot of loyal members out there from the early days of the forum. Communication is the key!!

Javivi Welcome to the forum :46:

Hi and welcome to the forum. When you say non runner is there something specific or just a flat battery? The buzzing noise behind the battery is the electric run on pump, it runs all the time engines running and three minutes after switch off so that is normal You will need a fully charged battery to start/run otherwise you will get all sorts of weird things happening (beeping from dash and clicking from relays) DMF can be troublesome and some members have replaced with solid without problem, others say no causes other problems, I'm sure some others members will give you more info as I have the Automatic.

Can you do a log containing 003, 010, 011 and save then into an excel document then post

Best keep a note of that Greg case he pops up somewhere else :46:

Sounds like your booster heater is trying to fire up but fumes are coming back through air inlet. To disable heater remove fuse 12 if the problem goes away then heater needs attention.

Cant answer your question although would think doubtful What I would say is check the tyres as they need to be the reinforced or extra load type.

They may well have cleaned the interior but more likely rain water is entering the cabin, there is a thick sound deadening mat under the carpet this absorbs the water and will at least need lifting or removing to dry properly. The passenger side footwell contains the washer supply to the tailgate, there is a joint in the pipe that disconnects itself if the pipe freezes from then on the washer bottle just empties itself into the footwell Flashing display panel briefly when starting means a fault been stored in HVAC this is most commonly low refrigerant in the aircon. Dash lights on in reverse is broken/chaffed wiring in tailgate gaiter. There are a few other reasons for wet passenger floor the most common is the washer pipe Other less common are; Sunroof drains (if fitted) Scuttle drains Heater matrix windscreen

Just had my box overhauled for the jolt/delay pulling away more so when cold, there is a piston inside that gets a hairline crack, pressure is lost through here. Also had slight slipping in fifth. May be part of your problems.

The alternator clutch pulley is becoming a standard fit on all cars now and can cause shrieking and squealing. Testing clutch pulley, remove drive belt, locate alternator fan blade through opening, hold a screwdriver against fan blade while turning pulley anticlockwise, the pulley should turn smoothly without turning the fan. When you try turning clockwise the pulley will be locked to the shaft there by turning the fan. If the pulley turns the fan in both directions it needs changing.

It's worth a check in there, I know it can cause the instruments to light up when not switched on, may also be a fault in the main lighting switch.

It's so good to have some positive feedback :D there's a lot come on here get the info then disappear without any thanks or follow up.

http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/SHA/2003/406/56/4042407/

Just to add my bit I also changed fluid and was initially good after but then gradually slipped back to how it was, just had the box rebuilt, total cost