chrispb123456

Just repeating again for the benefit of newer and some older members :lol: about adding your vehicle details to your signature so you don't have to remember and we don't have to guess it every time you post. How to do it, for those that don't know :rolleyes: Click on your name Click my profile then edit my profile Then look under your options you will see change signature click on this The signature text box appears, type in your vehicle details and what else you want to appear then click save profile. Job done :)

No problem. That's the main reason why we say put all your model details into your signature then you don't have to remember it every time you post

7M3133990C

So there's a good chance it's only been working intermittently? could explain the hot and cold heater then. I know you said you had it pressure tested and nothing showed, thinking of all that alloy tubing under the car especially near the rear wheel arch before disappearing into car, a pin hole there may have gone unnoticed especially if it's only when hot and on the move

Yes the small pipe sticking out is the condensate drain tube, and you would expect to see water dripping from this if you have been using the aircon, coolant could find it's way here if matrix is leaking badly Are you also getting steamed up windows and a wet dog smell in the car?

What do you mean by "heater overflow"

how could this be diagnosed ? Remove cooler from car and have it tested off the car. Or the hoses could be disconnected and linked together temporarily, like when you bypass a heater matrix it's not common for the cooler to leak but any small leak from it could be passed through the exhaust unnoticed. Internal leaks in oil cooler would force oil into cooling system, same with auto trans cooler if you have auto.

That is correct this pipe leads to the MAP sensor inside the ECU, definitely check the small hose while you have access to it. No 1 pipe that goes to air filter housing goes to atmosphere, on Mk2's there is a separate inline filter fitted on the inner wing. The wires cut off maybe result of some after market gadget that's been removed, can you see where the other end of the cable goes to? As you have no difference with or without the MAF connected then its very likely to be faulty, MAF don't usually throw up a fault code but recording some live data with Vagcom will confirm if it's not performing.

You may want to check hoses are connected right you may find these helpful Scroll down there's some pics from the archive :) http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22568-maiden-voyage-after-engine-swap/page__p__164068#entry164068

U/S means unserviceable knackered no good, think that covers it :)

No only good for the MK1 & 2 as they are basically VW's with a Ford badge the MK 3 is all Ford.

Link to the lead then download VCDS lite from the rosstech website http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6#ht_3833wt_1163

You need to scan with Vagcom see if you have any boost issues, if you don't then the MAF is probably at fault

Assuming you have got climate control and set on auto the cooling fans should be running all the time engines running, you may have a problem with the sensor but would be worth scanning with Vagcom and see if any faults stored

Not heard of the pump interfering with the fan but would suggest fixing the pump and go from there.

The electric pump is powered from the fan control relay (430) R5

Was the fluid drained or changed as the first possible cause on rosstech site is fluid level?

Yes you can and using a pipe wrench (swan neck type) to turn the piston, it is fiddly and you need to be careful not to tear the rubber boot, much easier with the correct tool.

Well done :)

There's loads of info for all the subjects your wanting, use the search box above to the right and the FAQ's in the main menu have most of the common faults listed. Tip, you cannot use internet explorer with all sections of the site, best to use Mozilla firefox or google chrome.

Yep same for the 1999 Mk1.

If you still have your old alternator you can test the clutch by placing a screwdriver in the fan blades the pulley should turn easily anticlockwise but should be locked in the clockwise direction.

When you say alternator swapped is this a new alternator with a new pulley on it or is it secondhand, as the seized clutch pulley is quite a common fault and is what usually causes this problem, if the drive belt has been contaminated with oil you may also need to change it.

Only other thing I can think of for disappearing coolant could EGR cooler, this gets extremely hot with the exhaust gas passing through, this may only show up at high temperature with any coolant being ejected through the exhaust.