chrispb123456

Hi Seatkid Why not temporarily remove PAS belt and auxiliary drive belts then run engine, that will eliminate those if the noise is still there.

Vagcom can be very usefull and in many cases essential so yes get a cable and the free software from ross tech. Most problems have been covered before on here so do a search and look in the FAQ's for more info

Hi there You said you had the n/s floor trim removed iirc there's a bunch of them red/white wires there by the side of seat, other members have found these wires just twisted together and just needed soldering, they had got corroded from a probable wet footwell. Can confirm fuse 19 does cover the diagnostic socket aswell so when you find the fault it will probably fix both

You can replace a timing belt without any locking tools providing you mark the camshaft, and injection pump pulleys and flywheel with painted marks that accurately line up with a stationary point, and of course don't allow any movement while belt is removed. There is a TDC mark on the flywheel which lines up with the opening at the top of bell housing but is pretty much obscured to see, there is a slot in the back of the camshaft that would require removal of the cam cover, and injection pump has a hole for a pin through the gear when at TDC. But as long as your accurate with your marks then you wont have a problem

Mk1 booster heater doesn't kick in unless it's 5deg's C or lower, think I would still be inclined to change thermostat and seal first, it may be opening to early.

Have a feel around the tunnel carpet see if that's also wet, and as previously said check scuttle drains are clear. Or you may have heater matrix leaking coolant/antifreeze, this is what normally smells. If the matrix is leaking and can't be stopped by using K-Seal then removal of the heater unit is required which in turn means removing the whole dash/facia.

The MAP sensor on the MK1 is inside the engine ECU which is behind the instrument panel, it is connected with a small pipe running from the charge pressure hose (by fuel filter) and runs back into the car behind dash and connects to the ECU, check out this pipe. There is also a small section of pipe inside the ECU that connects to the MAP sensor this has been known to perish also but requires ECU removal and cover removal. Link to a how to http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22717-how-to-ecu-removal/page__p__164798#entry164798

Here's one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TECHNICAL-INFORMATION-SYSTEM-CD-A-MUST-LOOK-/120894631373?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item1c25e1adcd#ht_1069wt_1396

Dave if it's any help I have the number of a guy iv'e used for 8 years he's based in Maidstone but he's mobile so comes to you, tell him what you want to do he'll tell you whether that's feasible to test the rest of your system, or may have another way to do it. His name is Steve "Keep Kool" 07960 869688

Hi Dave Read this before thinking about joining with clips. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20060718155308AAjfrPU

Smoke as in burning or steam, are the windows steaming up if it's steam first check the air intake under wipers and make sure rain waters draining away, if that's OK have you lost coolant as you may have a leaking heater matrix.

I would be really surprised if there's no breaks in the door wiring, you need to peel the gaiter right back to expose the wiring, there is a how to in the FAQ's section

Mk2 range is from 2000 to 2006 Ghia/X TDI's 115ps 130ps most popular, Auto's can be troublesome on high mileage vehicles and DMF/clutches on a manual so give a good road test before parting with anything. Check coolant bottle for evidence of boiling up, brown rusty stains around that area also check level before and after a road test, disappearing coolant/excess pressure are signs of problems Also check central locking and electric windows for functionality and parking sensors for correct operation. Check passenger footwell in particular for wetness, the rear washer pipe has a joint under the carpet that can come apart in freezing weather then dumps the water under the carpet in extremes can flood under passenger seat where there are electrics relay etc. Think that covers the popular faults however don't be put off they are still good cars and a lot of info is available on these forums if you need help, and don't forget the VW Sharan and the Seat Alhambra are basically the same just minor cosmetic/trim variations so there's a lot to choose from

Here it is http://www.etis.ford.com/fordservice/serviceScheduleView.do?model=6&variant=52&interval=14&htmlOutput=Preview

If your changing oil and filter yes you can use it, not a good idea if your only topping up.

Check vacuum pipe connections at servo and vacuum pump

There's been a few cases on here where members complaining about delayed gear changes etc, would just say these boxes are a completely different operating design to conventional auto boxes, these are really a glorified manual box controlled electrically so you may need to adjust your driving style as I had a similar problem with our trucks which use a similar system. Although I know there little quirks now I still don't like them and for that reason I have a MK3 Titanium 163ps 6 speed manual box. If the dealer is saying it's behaving how it's suppose to get them to take you out and let them show you how to drive it, please don't be offended by that, I'm not saying your a bad driver you may just need to adapt to the new driving style.

All Mk2 diesels are PD (pumpe deuse) all 8 valve 90ANU.115AUY.130.ASZ.150BVK

More likely you now have head gasket gone.

VW 505.01 is specically for the PD engines which yours is not so a good quality 15W/40 is correct for your car

Had that problem with lower ball joints drying out, making creaking noises, try an oil can while gently levering open the top of boot with small driver.

The earthing problem does sound very likely, as you suggested earlier when you connected your jump lead to the engine and then to the battery, have a look around by the starter motor there should be an earth lead there also, it may be corroded or broken away.

Maybe broken wiring in door gaiters

Do you have sun roof's as the drains may be blocked or detached.

As for Vagcom not reading any modules, are you sure it's configured correctly, have you used it OK previously?