chrispb123456

Hiya Not actually tried this but read this link, you may be able to test your sensor/s with a voltmeter, although I'm sure looking through measuring blocks on VCDS you can see the timing, iirc 004. http://www.virtualmechanix.co.uk/sensors/88-crankshaft-sensor.html

Aah ha your on here as well, just to confirm then G28 is to the right of the oil filter housing

If the lights flashing but the temp gauge is showing normal 90 deg this indicates the level is low, however if the level is correct then the sensor is faulty or connections to the sensor, if there's no loss of coolant then carry on with your journey but proceed with caution and check temp gauge for any sudden rise in temperature

The variant is the clue VW codes ASZ=130 AUY=115

Maximum vacuum is created on tick over and overun, on acceleration there is very little so I would say your stored vacuum is leaking away when you accelerate, firstly check the servo pipe connections at the servo and at the inlet manifold, look for splits in the rubber connector. This could also be the non return valve stuck open on the servo pipe connector or worst case servo diaphragm which would require replacement servo

Possibly it's not the original radio, there are members on here who have the software to get your code from the radio's serial no. Or go to http://www.radio-code.co.uk/ pay a small fee and get your code online. If the radio is secondhand the code may be written on the back of the case, either way you need to remove the radio.

Looking at Vagcat your original colour springs are sports suspension, the new ones are heavy duty suspension, this could be your problem as sports would usually be lower.

Are you talking about compressed or uncompressed size

You cannot reset the warning light, it will go off automatically when you locate the break in the circuit, this is a simple loop circuit. Look carefully at the N/S/Front wheel follow the lead to the back of the wheel arch you will find a multiplug there the wiring can break at the plug

As long as you mark the pulleys before you remove the old belt you wont go wrong, http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/6705-cam-belt-or-timing-chain/page__st__30

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/23956-adding-your-vehicle-details-to-your-signature/

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/11296-mark1-door-card-removal/page__p__92295#entry92295 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5150-door-card-removal/page__p__35344#entry35344

As already said on the Mk1 there's nothing to reset, once you cured the problem it will work. If your going to short out the thermo switch immediately you start the engine you should hear the combustion fan spin up, after a few seconds you should hear a ticking from the fuel pump which is directly beneath the drivers seat under the car in front of fuel tank. If you hear these two things and then goes quiet then it hasn't fired up. If it doesn't go quiet and starts making a noise like a jet engine and maybe a small amount of smoke from the heater exhaust pipe, then your heaters working. When you short out the switch, which is clipped to the wiper linkage behind battery, you will need to remove the scuttle tray (3 bolts) to give you access to that area. Let us know how you get on.

Scan with Vagcom first you may have some fault codes to give us a clue other wise were just guessing.

Happened to me a few years ago now, I had them welded only to break next to the weld a few months later, bought a new seat base in the end.

With the MK2 you can link to the heater and it does store fault codes, some codes would need clearing to enable the heater to start after a repair, you can also check the heat output in measuring blocks. There's lots of info already documented on the site try the search box (above right) and also look in the FAQ's in the technical section (do not use internet explorer though it wont work there) :rolleyes:

Hi and welcome to the forum The Mk1 Tdi's will only have a run on pump and second battery if the car had the independent heating option. and are not accessible to Vagcom The heater is initiated by a thermo switch clipped to the wiper linkage which operates at 5 deg c or lower approximately. If your having problems with it e.g bad smoking or simply not working then the heater will need removing and stripping down, common fault is the glow plug is open circuit so replacing the plug will normally cure the problem, and as no fault codes can be stored on this model as soon as the fault is rectified the heater will work if of course the air temperature is below 5 deg's. Fuse 24=25amp fuse 3 =5amp these are the fuses for the heater on the Mk1

Don't hold yer breath waiting for a reply though :rolleyes:

Had you actually seen this module working yourself? reason I ask is they are prone to getting wet under the seat when the rear washer pipe comes apart and floods the module. U/S is short for unserviceable, which could also be said to be knackered, broken, or f******.

You will most certainly have broken/shorting wiring in the door/pillar gaiter look in this link for help http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/10371-galaxy-door-boot-wiring-inspection-repair/page__p__82231#entry82231

Are you using explorer? if you are try using firefox or chrome.

Here here don't waste your time or money they cause more problems than there worth.

You really need to scan with vagcom as this will pinpoint the problem, was this a new module or a secondhand one. My guess is you got a secondhand one that is U/S. The flashing light is telling you there's a fault on the parking sensor circuit which could be a simple wiring fault at one of the bumper sensors or one or more faulty bumper sensors.

Hi there The two bonded rubber mounts for the Mk1 TDI are 191201256 (VW numbers) they are not push fit they have a nut securing mount to the engine then a nut securing the cover to the mount.

You can't use explorer now use firefox or chrome