chrispb123456

I don't have a Haynes manual but follow this link to get to the relays, the black relays are the older more troublesome one's http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/page__p__68423&do=findComment&comment=68423

Replacing relay 109 is a good place to start, or if your handy with a soldering iron you could re solder the joints on the relay.

On the MK 2 there is a pressure switch in the brake pipe line near the centre exhaust, not sure if the MK 1 has this, may be worth a look

Bugger you beat me to it Seatkid

The five speed auto box in the MK2's is actually Japanese. Jatco JF506E is used on a variety of today's vehicles see link below. http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/jf506e.pdf

Check for broken chafed or shorting wiring in tailgate gaiter and all other door gaiters but more so drivers door. The limp mode problem you need to scan with vagcom to see if you have over or under boost, the symptoms are the same but cure different. The small speaker in the rear is for the rear sensors, you will find another for the front under the front passenger seat, also the control module, check for water damage here caused by the rear washer pipe becoming detached under the front footwell

Looking at your pic I can see the air outlet is different from the garrett, can't see your exhaust outlet flange or the oil pipe connections, bound to be different. What's more important why did that happen, could something have been sucked in through the air intake?

You may well be right but the fact the turbo is spinning freely I would have looked at the easier options first, the noise may simply be down to restricted airflow.

I would agree something is restricting the air flow badly, the intercooler pipes should be pressurised as the turbo spins up. Collapsing pipe work indicates a heavy vacuum. Start from the air filter intake and inspect pipe work down to intake side of turbo. What is your year and engine code?

I would agree something is restricting the air flow badly, the intercooler pipes should be pressurised as the turbo spins up. Collapsing pipe work indicates a heavy vacuum. Start from the air filter intake and inspect pipe work down to intake side of turbo.

I think the general consensus is that all automatics give problems with age no matter which make box or make of car it is. We see a lot of members with problems with their auto box or the electrics that go with it on here, but if you look in on other forums E.G different make/model you will see they are not without their problems. I recently had my box overhauled, and in their car park was a whole range of different makes and models waiting for repair.

Yes there are a few problems with this forum that need sorting and it needs monitoring in case things go wrong, you also very rarely answer PM's if someone wants to contact you for what ever reason, it doesn't instil confidence in the forum, however rant over <_< there's a lot of helpful members still on here and vast amounts of info stored here so is it time for a facelift again?

First of all welcome to the forum. This is a very common problem, you will have broken/chafed wiring in the rubber gaiter to the tailgate door. You will need to cut out the bad parts and solder in new lengths of suitable sized cable. You may also experience problems at some point with other doors but more so the drivers door with central locking and electric window problems, again usually down to broken wiring.

If it's dripping from the gearbox bell housing then it's most likely the slave cylinder leaking which requires removal of gearbox. Other than that you need to be more precise about where it's dripping from.

Am really surprised your not doing this yourself and save even more money? <_<

Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir as the clutch also gets it's fluid from here. If the level was low to start with air may have found it's way into the system which will require bleeding out.

Thanks Greg, was working last night so will make up for it today hopefully :D

Doesn't seem to be available on this model, mines the same and there's no reference to it (scrolling info) in the handbook.

Hi Baz Can agree with what you have said, I did a post about a year ago comparing the powershift to our MAN and Mercedes trucks and that annoying delay or hesitation when pulling out of junctions and roundabouts, and giving you the feeling your not fully in control of the vehicle. The blipping of the throttle to get the box into the right gear when approaching roundabouts and junctions where you know you wont come to a complete stop is the way to go. The boxes are a completely different design to the traditional automatic and therefore a new driving style needs to be adapted. The vehicle rolling back on hills when going from the brake pedal to the throttle won't happen if you use the handbrake like your supposed to when you come to rest. I didn't get much response from my post before, perhaps we may get some replies from other members who have now got used to the new driving style

Hi and welcome Are you sure you need to change the top mounts? there will still be a lot of play (lift) when new ones are fitted. The drop links are the most common part to change, however I did remove my struts by removing the pinch bolt and knocking the hub downwards and also levering down on the wishbone arm then finally remove the strut top nut. As for the drive shafts failing it's the o/s intermediate shaft splines that usually fail, look for the tell tale red dust around the joint, it's a good idea to take off that shaft and repack with grease, this will add years to the life of that joint. Of course if there's any signs of damage or perishing to the joint gaiters then replacement is certainly worth considering.

Check the multi plug connector on injector pump for corrosion, also that connector on number 3 injector

Just a thought phil you haven't left off any vacuum pipes or sensor plugs on the inlet manifold area.

Well done mate, makes it all worth while when you find the fault with the split pipe.

also make sure interior lights work when opening drivers door and off when closing.

EP80 is completely wrong it should be fully synthetic 75W/90 but would recommend the proper ford spec oil which is not available elsewhere.