marinabrid

the sender is a combined sensor that serves the ecu with info as well , if you remove the plastic engine cover if you still have one fitted more or less in the centre in front of the rocker cover a water hose comes out and you will see the sensor in there usually has a 4 wire push on connector on it, be carefull taking it off as the wires get very brittle and are a sod to fix back in you can swop it by removing a circlip that holds it in have the new one ready and do a quick swop over and you only lose a bit of water. if your getting hot air the thermo must be ok, its well under the engine, tricky to get to without a lot of stripping down.

sounds like you need a new glow plug and maybe the fault codes clearing

id try changing the thermostat to start with

many thanks i am always happy to go with seatkids advice dont think the wife drag races to tescos i will ask her though :blink:

Evening all, 98 S reg TDI 110 AFN 150,000 miles, just passed mot, i looked and was shocked we had car for 6 years this week. i know when we bought it i had the timing belt and pullys done. since then we have only done about 15,000 miles, was used as 2nd car by the wife. for the last 2 years its only done 500 miles a year and these are short journeys. should i get the belt changed again with the pullys or not or is it ok to do some more miles. Thanks

you can fit the mk2 5kw model if you cant or dont want a 3kw. i got one a few years ago 2nd hand and even though i think the 5kw has a different metering pump to supply it i have had no problems at all, it works as it should, the wiring plug was the same as well, just a swop.

it cost me

we had this trouble a few years ago on our 90hp model, are you still getting the same fault code now you have swopped the n75 and pipes ? also have you made sure the pipes are not crossed in any way i has one on the wrong way round which cured it . there was a vacum pipe diagram for the mk1 90hp on here but it seems to have gone now, or out of curiosity try swopping the pipes over that go to the turbo.

Thanks for that, would the stop solenoid not show up as a fault code if it was causing the problem ?

shut off sems fine,i had to move car other day was only running about 30 secs, left it overnight, what a sod to start cranked for around 40 secs but as usual fired up and runs no problem, then next day started perfect from cold , there must be some great brain out there to help with this, ive asked the same question a few times over a couple of years in the hope a new member may shed light onto this odd starting.. anyone ????

thanks for that pic, so if the solenoid is not getting a live supply does it shut off the fuel ? is that the way i test it, ? or how do i test it for a fault ? thanks

i was wondering about that but where is the stop solenoid fitted and how do i check it ? have done all the filter relays etc checks and replaced ,every so called professional i known over the years have no idea at all,

has no one else ever had this kind of problem with a afn 110 engine ?

indeed sir a good answer. i thought i read that the cheaper ones were a bit more flimsey, as the last 3 mann ones i fitted have all cracked on the frame surrounding the paper filter material as ive been fitting it, i thought maybe the ford vw ones may be a bit stronger, i wonder how many others have broken one as they try to fit it

im about to swop the pollen filter this year, are the genuine ford brand any better or fit easier then the aftermarket ones, theres a fair price difference, a mann hummel one is around

hi all galaxy 1.9tdi mk 1 afn code, if i go to start after overnight, the car usually fires up quickly, today i had to move the car about 10 yards up the road, from cold it started up as normal, then a few hours later i went to go out, it just cranked and cranked for a very very long time, it did start up and off i went. this has happend before, if i start from cold and go for a drive then i dont have a problem starting form cold again, just if i rstart and then run the engine for only a few seconds do i get this problem, could it be fuel running back, is there a soenoid fitted to stop this ? ive had this problem before the car always starts in the end but takes loads of turning over. it has anew battery and a new bosch starter and glow plugs, although these turn it over much faster it still dont cure the problem, there is nothing showing on the vagcom fault codes. there dont seem to be air in the clear fuel pipe, no leaks just odd starting.

when i did ours, every torx screw rounded off due to rust, you can get them seperate from vw dealers or i got a set from a eberspacher dealer along with a gasket set. they are very long screws if i remember, if i was doing another i would def get the 4 main screws to before i started. supose it depends how old the heater is and the weather its been exposed to.

on the matter of replacing the sensor with a switch, where is the best place to feed the wires through the bulkhead ? ive had a look but dont seem to see anywhere easy .

though i read on here years ago that some models had the sensor located near the front bumper area have a look under there and you may see something.

Hi all, just a thought, to all those with the lovely aux booster heater, i run mine in winter with a micro fuse bridging the terminals so i runs all the time , however a few years ago when cold weather came it wouldnt start up i got it going by belting it with a rubber mallet. anyway now, in the middle of August i replace the mini fuse and see see if it starts up, i run it to give it a good blow out, then when winter comes hoepfully it will start. Main reason i do it is if it is faulty you can fix it in the good weather and light nights rather than on your knees in the freezing cold and rain.

you cant get that part of the linkage alone the robdogs make you buy a new assembly, most folk tend to do a makeshift repair, i did same drilled a hole through, i simply used some heavy duty wire twisted through the hole, done the job now for 2 years and snapped once, i keep a bit of wie and a pair of mini cutters on board for a roadside repair.

you need vagom to check for faults get a lead from ebay and download the free software or depening where you are there are some very friendly members who will come and read it for you

does it not flash at all when you start up, on warm days the light will only bome on from cold for a millisecond as the glow plugs are hardly or not used i think they are linked to a sensor to tell it the temp.

i used a similar product forgot what its called but cost

get a vagcom lead and download the free software if you not done this already it a common thing on these 110 tdi we had ours 5 years now and get odd starting isssues but they always fire up in the end ours shows no faults, i have swopped all the sensors and still no cure, from what i read its a thing common to this enigne type and most people live with it howevr the engine holdiong back felling needs checking could be the dreaded sticky turbo vanes or egr valve, someone earlier mentioned wynns egr valve cleaner which may be worth a try the vagcom lead and software though will help you sort out any failed sensors and the leads are about