marinabrid

the aux heater is a fully automatic unit with no controls, it starts when the weather reaches a low temp around 5 degrees i think, this triggers the unit to trigger a small dosing pump light the glowplug and it then heats the water that goes through it. thats basically it. when its going you can hear a whooshing noise from it, or have a look under the car in front of the passenger side rear wheel you will see a little exhaust pipe and feel the hot exhaust coming from it. if its ot working or your getting smoke but no noise then most liely the glow plug has failed. search this forum for more info

if you are going to change the glowplug, when you drop the heater down you will see a sticket on the end plate if its still intact then it will tell you the heater type that fitted, the glowplug is the most common thing to fail so if your handy have a go repair it, watch out though for those corroded bolts that hold the heater together.The only ones that have a seperate battery which is under the passenger seat are the top models where you can programme the heater to come on at any time of day, there is also extra buttons on your overhead clock module to set the time.

the stiffness is in nuetral moving it from side to side am going to do it this weekend hopefully it is the cold and rust thats causing it.

i would be back to the garage that charged me

the injector start valve , i may be wrong but it rings a bell about a similar thing i had a few years ago, look at the 4 injectors and you will see one off them looks different to the others, like a things on top of it with a wire connector on it, check the wiring and plug, if you disconnect it, it will run extremely poorly, i think its also called the needle lift sensor, i may have them muddled up but its worth a try. it will show on the injector section on the ford parts diagram or vw which may be cheaper.

i wouldnt worry about glow plugs, these engines usually start without them unless its very very cold, i would certainly put a few gallons of fuel in, also the red light saying its over hot, this could be the sensor it feeds the gauge but also tells the ecu weather to put on glow plugs and other things, could be the problem its worth swopping for a few quid. have you drained the fuel filter from underneathe to drain the water out ?

:) yes, i read that thread, its a common thing with these, i coudnt work out why though it was just when it was very cold weather and the car been stood, i just been out now and driven 5 miles and its back to nice and easy to shift. i bet in morning it will stiff again ( i wish ) says the wife !

ive noticed when the weather is very cold and the car has stood a few days the gear stick is very very stif to move didnt notice it last winter, coldest we had all week been -1 went out tonight and really had to force it. moving side to side its nearly stuck, after driving a few mins and warming it up it goes back to easy to change gears , im dreading something popping off or breaking its done 150000 on original gear cables wonder if spraying wd40 over the ball joints on the gearbox top would help, any suggestions gratefully recieved Thanks 1998 tdi 110 afn

hi all, just a question for a friend with an alhambra 03 115tdi on turning right there is a strange noise sounds like a muffled marble in a can ! he has already changed the cv joint and what he called a little bar ! couldnt work that one out. its quiet loud , i think also his drop links have gone as they are knocking like mad on the straight when you hit even a slight bump in the road., any ideas gratefully recieved thanks

i put a small on off flick switch in to turn off the aux heater as well, hid it away just under ashtray, i just ran 2 wires through the bulkhead to the sensor terminal. when you remove the lower dash under the steering wheel area you can see a really big thick lot of wires taped up they go through a giant bung, i made a small hole in and passed the wire through. easier than lifting the bonnet to decide if i want it on or off.

thats what i thought after reading that most mk2 seem to warm up pretty soon i was left with only just warm air after 20 mins, i looked into it and found the mk1 has a pump rated up to 3kw and the mk2 up to 5kw so my mk2 heater was not going balls out, so i got this later model pump and put it on and there is a big big difference on warm up time.

just thought i would let folk know, i highly recommend fitting the correct metering pump for the mk 2 d5wz heater rather than leaving the older 3kw from the mk1 to do the job. have fitted it tis morning and the difference is amazing, the thing was up to temp within a few mins rather than the 20 mins before. so if swopping a mk 1 d3w for a mk2 d5w swop the pump as well. many thanks to all who helped with the wiring of the pump, it doesnt matter which way round you attach the wires it works either way.

well the bloke was a electrician who said it would pump in reverse , not a auto one though a house one maybe 240v pumps work different, i shall as always take the free advice from those who know, thats some great brains on here.

ok thanks for that, some one told me that if you connect it the wrong way it makes the pump work in reverse but wouldnt pump the fuel. have you heard that one ?

hi all have just a used metering pump for the 5kw heater, its come from a newer model and has a push on block connecter rather than the 2 spades the old one has, does anyone know how i can identify the pos and neg ?? thanks

thanks for advice,, am changing the belt on a time basis 6 years rather than milage, seems to be the favored option as its now done 6 years but only about 10, miles since change

any chance of a close up photo of this repair, it will be uesfull for us all to see where to drill and fasten. thanks

forgot to add, do the pullys want changing at smae time even though they only done 10k since last belt change ? thanks

hi all, am going to get timing belt changed soon, does the mk1 tdi AFN suffer from the impeller coming off like the mk2 just wondering if i should swop that as well 150,000 miles on original thanks

have you checked the fuse for the heater ?

mmm wondering now if i fit the 5kw metering pump to my 5kw heater will it suffer any over heat problems as the mk1 doesnt have the after run pump, i suppose if the heater had actually shut down due to the water temp bieng hot enough then it wouldnt matter but if it was on full bore during shut down it may suffer, i suppose i could put a switch to the heater and turn if off if it was running before i stopped the engine. or then again it may work fine :blink:

well chaps, has this one baffled us all ? apart from one who suggested it was because the D5W ran hotter than the mk1 D3W , i did stumble on another website that the PD engine was prone to hotspots after shutdown so the pump was actually for this purpose, never having a mk2 as yet , does this make any sense ?

there are 2 different plugs on the ford as well as the vw, i think they came in around 05/06 the other plug has 2 wires attached to it whereas the original is a standard nut on top type.

thats an interesting point, ive run D5WZ for 2 years with no apparent problems execpt take a fair while to heat up, im now putting a 5kw dosing pump on to replace the old original 3kw so the heater will run a full power, im now wondering if i should put a recirculating pump in the line on a switch. however from reading the posts on the german site sgaf.de the people who have upgraded to the 5kw from the 3kw report only need to change the dosing pump, they never mentioned having to put in a recirc pump as well. the gasket sets are around

what do you mean by cabin heater, do you mean the heater fan inside ? or the booster heater outside ?