marinabrid

i doubt if the power steering is anything to do with a starter problem, have you had a new starter fitted ? why and what did they do to the air con system to make that responsible for the starter problem ? sounds a bit odd to me, hope you are not being taken for a ride by this garage if the starter was changed and it was a recon unit there are some very dodgy ones out there but all should come with a 12 month warranty

the pipes seem to be complete with fittings on each end thanks

Hi all Have got new servo pipe to fit due to old ones cracking up, can someone tell me if they are just a push on fit at either end i don't want to damage anything when fitting, does it just prise out of the servo unit and pull of the other end where it fits on the engine. Thanks

mmm thats what i though, does the pipe simply push fit at both ends, it seems to be a shrunk on fitting , how do you remove or refit it that case ? looks like you need rubber hands and elbows to access it !

have looked on here and seems a common problem, i got a split where the pipe from the servo joins the little valve, one chap on here has repaired with self amalgamating tape, what is this and who sells it, or is it wise to spend the

Hi all Hope someone can shed some light on this, Went for drive yesterday and had to pull up sharply, i noticed the pedal seemed to go down further than normal and took longer to stop, mind i did have 4 kids and wife on board, then the brakes seemed normal until i reused them a few times, whats happening is if i drive say 1/2 mile and use brakes normally its stops fine but then if i need to reuse the brakes very shortly after the pedal is going hard very hard like there is no servo help, theres no hissing or anything, no lost fluid, just a very hard pedal, the servo was replaced a few years ago and only done a few thousand miles since. left overnight and same thing this morning, use pedal once and is fine car stops as normal but then if i want to stop again the pedal keeps going very hard until i drive a bit longer that seems to put the brakes back to normal till i use them again and then another hard pedal. Any ideas welcomed.

as far as i remember its on the bulkhead there are 2 small plastic cylinder type things with air pipes in and a multi plug its one of those. there may only be one though !

if you are trying to override it so you can have a warm car before driving off i think thats a whole new subject, I'm sure some clever bods on here have done it though i think its a costly and complex matter with new wiring and relays time switch clock and a small battery that has to be fitted under the seat. why didn't someone who designed these motors simply arrange it like that in the first place, it would be great to simply programme it to come on 1/2 hour before you want to drive off in a warm car.

i fitted one to our mk1. i simply ran a wire from each of the temp sensor pins located under the wiper scuttle, ran them to a used heated rear window switch i got off ebay, so now i decide when to use the heater, mine never seemed to come on when it was cold even though i put a new sensor on, so as long as the water temp isn't up to normal i can switch on the heater and switch off when i like.

ok thanks very much

Hi all Does the vagcom system work on the 2.8 petrol engine mk2 galaxy ? Thanks

I've used 10/40 semi synthetic for 9 years in our AFN engine i think thats the correct grade, never had any problems in 150,000 miles.

you don't need to wait for cold weather, just bridge the terminals on the sensor clipped to the wiper linkage, use a mini fuse and if working the heater will fire up with a cold engine. there are lots of threads about this on the forum.

whats the best way to "accidentally" damage it so it needs changing ?

thanks seatkid didn't fancy trying to take it apart i will try some silicon on the felts.

Hi all i have the stiff passenger electric window had to free it off by pulling on it as the wife pressed the button, got it free but it seems stiff, is it possible to remove the door card and oil the mechanism without taking it all apart can you reach the parts that move in there thanks

i put some in a mk 1 glx model and the wiring loom and relays were all in place just bought a dash switch and job done.

this is going to turn into a competition to find the oldest charger !

many thanks, i got one of the old 4 amp type from the 1980s!

Afternoon all, Need to charge up the battery due to short journey syndrome, its so long since i did this i can't remember if you have to unbolt any of the battery leads while its in the car getting charged or can i just clip on the charger and leave it to charge. its a sealed battery if that makes a difference. Thanks

l i did was look up an eberspacher dealer i phoned them in the parts dept and they have the correct screws and gaskets and whatever other bits you may need and usually they will post them out to you.

thanks. will have to have another look around or put some radweld in.

i think its them little clips that stop it vibrating and moving even a tiny bit, i would make sure they are all done up as this is what caused my pipe to fail after repair. i

ours went a few years ago, as long as you can get under it it was a easy job, i watched my pal do it but he has a ramp as he works in a bus depo so can use the equipment, make sure you secure it as he didnt do this for ours and 2 weeks later it broke again, i wasnt happy he forgot to fasten it down, i think there is a bracket on it, the pipe was £45 so i had to buy 2 !

Hi all The old gal seems to be using a fair bit of coolant lately a 100 mile round trip used 2 pint , more or less the top level of the bottle to the bottom car not overheating, no water in the oil, no obvious leaks, no puddles, no steam from rad cap or exhaust, on thinking , its always used a bit over the years more than the old 90hp we had. should there be a hissing when i unscrew the rad cap when hot, i forgot ! i dont do much milage these days so its not a great problem unless i was going a long way. car runs perfectly . cant see any antifreeze stains anywhere, the booster heater isnt leaking as i can see. very puzzling. could it be head gasket problem ? ive ordered a new rad cap to start with as the cheapest option. thanks