Mirez

You must have the front radio on for the system to work, although there is no other connection between the media center and radio, the MC uses the radio's power output to know when to turn on/off.

Correct :) You can have any combination of DVD, VHS or AUX on the screens.

About

Nope petrols are measured at idle and fast idle, the "red line" test as its known to most MOT people is an incredibly stupid test IMO and relies entirely on the owner having looked after the car - I would be highly suprised if you have any course for compensation should it get damaged during the test... The official wording is that its taken to the govener, there is no mention of a minimum or maximum rev value so there is nothing to stop you adjusting the redline down a bit before taking it :rolleyes: The last 4 new cars (all less then 2 years old) have had an inbuilt neutral redline at about 3K, ie if you are idling and put your foot to the floor it will only get to 3K - wonder what happens there?

The Ford (Visteon) DVD player will plug in, there is a control module under the center armrest (not the panel with the buttons on, its behind that) which will have the correct input for the DVD player so you could go for that. If you want a stand alone DVD player then you'll either have to plug it into the AUX sockets in the center panel or into the AUX input on the bottom of the VHS player - both will work. You can watch two different sources on each screen, but you are limited to the system's 3, being AUX, VHS and DVD. If you plug an aftermarket DVD player into the VHS player then you won't get the DVD option so can only select between AUX and VHS.

F28 is the fuse for the number plate lamps and also the dash illumination, since F32 has no feed to that circuit then then that would be my guess as well :18:

It can be yes but because the intercooler is so far down on the galaxy then it tends to collect normal oil vapour and if theres a dodgy seal then it leaks out. If there is a concern that the turbo may be failing then pop one of the intercooler pipes off and inspect - the pipe will have a covering of oil on the inside and possibly a minute amout of "standing" oil - if there is more then that or if it runs out then there is a potential oil seal failure,,, Its quite normal for the vapour to be there in any turbo diesel engine and the EGR system doesn't help matters so don't be that alarmed!

It should go off at 15mph... as long as you stay below this then it should stay on once activated either by reverse or manually.

Door wirings unlikely, the transceiver is down in the footwell and not in the door so even if the wiring was degraded or brokwn then communications between the remote and base wouldn't be effected.

Common fails are the pipe perishing on the off side, and both seals degrading between plastic and ally on both sides. If its around the pipework rather then on the ally then it could be as simple as the pipe being loose or the clip having lost its omph!

Prone to loosing the seal between the plastic and aluminium but guess what? It can't be bought seperately so its a new intercooler or a flexible sealent fix.

If its working but only short range then its highly likely to be as simple as the battery going flat - should be a nice easy fix!

Not seen a manual for vagcom, the output test button is a simple to follow thing - just click and follow it though, you ahould complete all the steps to get back to the normal menu. Deffinately check the other modules for fault codes though. F34 is Fuse 34 - from memory its the bottom right one in the fuse box. Ground resistance would, in a perfect world, be 0ohm's however thats unlikely so the closest to 0 the better- set your meter to the lowest resistance setting and post back the findings...

Gauge sweep only applies to the Mk1 cluster on start up, the Mk2 does nothing. You can use the "Output Test" button in Vagcom to sweep each guage in turn though but I would suspect a wiring fault rather then a cluster issue. Have you scanned the central electrical and engine modules for fault codes as well? Both of these can report faults with the circuits you have problems with and I'd also check F34 is intact as thats a primary feed for the speed generator and also has a part role in the fuel side of things. When you say you've checked ground is present, did you measure continuity or resistance? You need to be measuring resistance as a high value can also cause these types of problem, report back with the reading.

Likewise, when they are working its an awesome vehicle and to be fair what generally fails is the irritaing stuff rather then the "thats you stopped at the side of the road" stuff! Had someone stick a note on mine asking if I'd like to sell tonight, first car I've owned that's managed that :huh: As for your other issues Simon, the CC on the petrol is stupidly overcomplicated! When I had mine the pump was fine, there is a vac pipe that runs around the side and back of the engine bay that was perished in about 5 places on mine - chop a bit off and take it to a local motor factor's and they matched the diameter up to fuel line which is significantly stronger and more durable, the whole piece cost about £10 as opposed to Fords £100+. The washer jet will be blocked or covered in limescale, pop it out disconnect the pipe and soak it in anti-scale. Its a shared water supply - there is a T under the bonnet insulation and the electrical supply is purely for the heating :lol:

Removing the grill wont help, you'll need to remove the bumper entirely as thats the only other way to access the sensors. The trim pieces do pop out though and yes they are designed to simply clip into place. You'll need a couple of midsize flatblades, wrap the ends in insulating tape to help protect the paintwork and remember that the bumper will deform permanently (and worst case paint flake off) if you apply too much backwords pressure against it trying to lever it out - I normally use a piece of insulation tape wraped wood to provide something else to lever against. Its also worth remembering that warm plastic bends, cold plastic breaks so ideally warm the area a little first if you intend to do it with the temperature hovering below 10. I've taken a few off now and not had any break or caused any damage - its a bit scary first time around as theres a constant nagging that somethings going to get damaged but it will pop out, start at the end closest the wheel and work around, once the first ones gone the others pop out without much force. Refitting is just a case of lining up the end with the center piece and then pushing it all back into position. Good luck!

What colour is the non photoshopped version? :huh:

Its interesting how service varies so widely around the country - my local SEAT dealer (40 miles away!) is excellent, my Ford dealer is awesome and the local VW dealer is shocking! Very valid point on costs and its always worth checking SEAT prices- a good 90% of the components on a Galaxy are VAG so Ford will normally always be more expensive then VW but generally, dispite SEAT being part of the VAG group, SEAT are nearly always cheaper.

Thats because you are scanning the wrong controller :ph34r: Xenon range was only really used for about 3 years when there was a seperate module specifically for the levelling operation - on modern (all galaxys) its accessed by module 29 - Left Light. I would say at some point you have had the battery replaced/disconnected and the system has lost the home position - a simple reset is required and If you serach my posts you'll find a reference on exactly how to do that. I'd also suggest that someones tried to wash the lights when the tanks been empty/frozen and as such F11 (20amp) will be blown, hence to wash function. Welcome to the forum!

Yes, the outside air sensor is shared between the clusters display and the climate system. Its important that its working as the climate panel uses it to disable the compressor at threshold value (4*c) and to know what temperature the outside air is that its drawing in and subsequently what level of cooling/heating is required. The cluster is purely sampling the resistance of the sender to show the temperature but if its not reading accurately then its worth swapping it out (check for corrosion in the wiring first) - also check the senders in position, with higher readings its quite possible its been dislodged and is living in next to the warm air circulating the radiator.

As Chris says its an easy one to test, just listen for it - the only thing I would point out is that there is a delay of about 10 seconds from ignition switch on to pump start (if its working) so give it a little while!

If they thought it was a regular motor pump then they would have been semi-right - the impellor would rotate the wrong way but it seldom pumps anything when connected the wrong way as they are designed to push fluid in one direction not the other! However again, we are dealing with a solonoid pump not a motor pump so just plug it in!

Correct its a dumb solonoid pump - ie its just a coil so it makes no odds which way around you connect it.

Hi Rob, yes there is a metal cup plate in which the top nut sits - normally its the the nut and strut that have corroded and the plate can be cleaned out - I doubt anywhere other then a main dealer will be able to source them for you though.

Hello! Better late then never eh! I've not fiddled enough with the Mk1 clocks to give you a deffinate answer but the early ones did indeed have miles to emply and also a digital read out of the oil temperature... I've not got an early eeprom to give you but since the clocks were made by VDO then it probably can be enabled with a simple hex change - the clocks are normally fully equiped and the MFD section basically looks at aa small hex number (that converts to binary) to tell it what it can or cant display - the 1's and 0's are simply used as dip switches for whats enabled and whats not.