Mirez

The wiring is on the OUTSIDE not the inside, remove the rubber A pillar trims and you'll see the connectors.

Yup, they are a doddle to do on the PD engines - just pop off the plastic engine cover and there they are :) As seatkid says though the glowplug light doubles up as the MIL (Engine Warning light) - don't get consumed into thinking its a fault with the plugs, it could be any number of ECU codes that have put it on but again, the most common seems to be brake light lamps failed - get someone to check they are coming on when you brake!

It terms of service items the 130 and 150 are identical. :)

Good God man thats a shocking number of questions! :) It does not say flame out so I presume the glow plug is not at fault? -Correct, 01413 is nothing to do with the plug Which fuses should I check as there are a lot under there! -None, if you have communications to the heater and its attempting to fire then your done - the pumps not got its own fuse Which Relay controls the pump? -None, its a solenoid injection pump which simply requires a pulsed 12V supply to operate Can it be repaired and if so how? -29-00 is a shorted code, in other words the heater is trying to supply 12V but its taken direct to ground somewhere. Unplug the dosing pump and see if the code changes to 24-00 Open Circuit Suggestions I have read are the expensive control module that pulse feeds the solenoid in the dosing pump need replacing? -Quite possibly, 05>06 car's seem to be effected with dodgy control boards but its the heaters PCB - there isn't one in the pump. My hope is that there could be other shut down protection options that stop the pump working but does anyone know this? -Nope, each unexpected shut down reports a code. There are codes for all protection systems - you have a dosing pump shorted fault. Would any other pump and heater work if I found one at a scrap yard? -Theoretically yes, 01> pumps and heaters should work. Earlier ones (Mk1) won't, most other manufacturers won't as the aux water pump is controlled by the heater not the car Mine is a 55 plate so I suspect it will be the later 5KW heater and pump sadly with the dodgy control unit I'm told? - Sadly correct Anyone got the Beru Plug part number for the late heater as I've heard of Boaters buying them for around £20 rather than £60??? -You would need to double check but 7M3963319A for the earlier 8V one and 7D0963533A for the later 12V version Which wires could be bridged on the the Temp sensor safely? -Either - The temp sensor is just a thermal switch. Install in parallel to make an "ON" switch, install in series to make an "OFF" switch. Just a thought but if the mini water pump has packed up would the heater sense that then cut the fuel pump feed? -No. The D5WZ has no control over the water pump, it simply assumes its permanently running - if it was dead you'd get an overheat error The heater does not get warm or fire up but the AUX Heater fan does run at a low speed on start up? -Normal, the fan runs to purge the burning chamber with clean air prior to ignition I used to regularly here the Water swish when I turned on the ignition but just realised I've not noticed it for a while? -Then it may be dead which won't be helping the situation but certainly not the cause of the error you have. Its more likely to be the main engine's diesel fuel pump priming that system if you were hearing it just on igition on. Where is the W Pump on a late model Gal situated? -As chris says, at the back of the bulkhead - passenger side

Again you need to get under and have a rummage about. Read this as well: Splines Certainly becoming a common fail point and one of the potential causes of the noise.

Potentially it could be, it would be more likely the clockspring wiring rather the button itself though.

Glad its resolved, can you now measure the voltage on pin 5 - see if its still at 1.5v or is now at 12V :)

The programmable heater makes a big difference and not least because it heats for a constant 30mins! I'm monitoring mine now but 3 seasons for you is certainly good, from general posts most people seem to be suffering issues more often that that so it'll be interesting to keep an eye on our plugs life. Mike, Disconnecting the parking sensors one at a time will just put the module into error state each time - it needs to see all 4 or 8 live at the same time. You should probably start a seperate thread if you want to continue discussing this though, it's a little confusing being in with the aux heater problem :) On that note however, it sounds like your heater has now gone into lock out mode - a number of repeat flame out errors (ie non starts) will lock the unit to save further damage. You'll need vagcomnow to reset the memory is the only downside.

I'm not that clued up on the Mk3 but on mondeos and focus's (foc-i?) if the indicators don't flash on lock then it "thinks" a door is still open - including bonnet and boot. Worth checking each sensor is working correctly.

WJ, Smoke is poor combustion which would suggest a lack of diesel, air or ignition. The most common failure on these being glow plugs I would suggest its in need of replacement or cleaning. Short trips absolutely hammer the heater, its run cycle is quoted at 30minutes optimal but there is no automatic inhibit on the cars since it can't predict the journey time. Personally, I think a switch should have been fitted like most merc's - press it when its cold to warm the car up, simple. On a two minute journey the combusion process won't even be properly stable so shutting it down just to fire it up again 2 mins later will be creating a mountain of sooty oily residue inside which the plug will have to overcome. If its covered in this crud for a long enough period the plug itself can overheat, which is the given reason for the poor service life of the plug on the galaxy. The liquid you see/feel will almost certainly be unburt diesel - the noise will be the combustion motor "pre charging" the chamber ready for the next attempt at a start, if its soaked in diesel however the chances of a start are remote, if by some miricle you do get a start make sure you run it for a good 30/40 minutes - just let the car idle ideally and you might just burn off/out some of the crud. Adding an inhibit switch is quite easy though, and you simply add it in series with the external temperature sensor (clipped to the wiper mech) - that way even if the external temperature calls for booster heat the switch will block the signal and the heater can't fire. If you frequently do short start stop journeys - proper start/stop engine off ones not just M25 style ones! - then I would highly recommend adding a switch to protect the life of the plug. Mikef, Sorry missed your earlier reply. The wiring degrades typically just where it enters the connector on the back of the sensor. If you look underneath, you'll see each sensors wiring comes out of a plastic sleave and is then taped before entering the electrical connector - its that short 3cm where most seem to fail, but random "seen objects" are normally caused by a single sensor on the way out.

Only the ones in my head :) - Technically you wouldn't need to disable them but you should wire it up anyway - its all easy enough to do and then if you ever fix the sensors you won't need to do further wiring.

That'll be cruise, its not on the stalk if you have a multifunction wheel (any buttons other then the horn on the galaxy). To set you need to press on, then set. On an 03 you should get the light on in the cluster when you press on - seatkids advise about the switches is spot on but not quite sure where the 3rd gear info comes from :) CC will work in ANY gear providing the speed is 25mph or greater.

That would be me, I need to make the copyright info bolder evidently :) I'm actually going to ammend it soon with some more info on the pump and vagcom testing.

The part number they give "20 1819 99 16 00" isn't listed to fit any of the heaters so I'm not quite sure whats going on there "25 1864 99 15 00" is the number for the D3WZ and D5WZ, "25 1922 99 16 00" for the D5Ws. I can't advise on compatibility though as its a different number so somethings changed, it could indeed just be the cover, could be something more.

Well open circuits are never good, its basically saying the controller is suppling a voltage for the air-blower but its not taking it. For a new unit thats a little suprising, but none the less fixable with the two main reasons being the blower itself has gone defective or there's a fault with the internal wiring. Use Vagcom to initiate the output tests, from memory it'll do the dosing pump first and then the blower, as soon as you hear the dosing pump hit next to activate the blower - you don't want to flood the chamber with diesel :) If you hear the blower then its possibly more a wiring fault then anything else, typically when motors fail they die and thats it. If you hear it running well then its an indication of something else. I've seen a couple now where the wiring from the car into the heater is degrading (like the parking sensor wiring) causing shorts and open circuits. Whilst the blower isn't directly part of that wiring, I have seen blower, pump and heat errors all logged as a result. As regards to me fixing it, you'd be welcome any time :)

The "S" is the standalone version designed for retrofitting to vehicles without heaters from the factory. Its physically the same size and connection but the S is designed to control the run on pump itself and to meter the fuel differently. You'd need to replace the run-on pump with a "clocked" version and then rewire it back to the heater else you'll get pump errors and it'll lock out just like flame errors :)

You need "Output Tests" not measuring blocks to enable the pump and fan :)

Depends on Spec, for an 04 plate you got: LX : 6000N Zetec: 6000N Ghia: 5000N + CD Changer Elegence: 6006N The N basically denotes its got the special front bezel to fit the aperature. Non N's will fit but look just slighly out of place. The 5000 is a tape unit, the 6000 a single CD and the 6006 a 6 disc changer in one.

Not charging the battery, it can't drain the battery unless its internally shorted which is unlikely. Alternators generate AC current not DC current so 6 diodes are used to rectify the AC signal, as/when they fail the DC voltage produced will drop and the battery will be charged much slower. As said though that is easy enough to test for and scotts unfortunately already had his replaced without sucess

Its just over half a tonne heavier then the beemer! You can't carry that much weight economically and most MPV's of the age struggle to get anywhere near 42mpg, I can't imagine a remap will help get you much more then a 5mpg increase tops.

Get a cup of tea... ...read this: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=3623 To summarise, a lot of places will simply replace the assembly rather then strip down and replace the plug.

To go through that many plugs would indicate the heating cycle is running way more then it should do. So as chris says, the runon pump and motor should be checked but also the temperature sensors within the unit are reporting good readings. Lots of small journeys (less then 10 minutes) do seem to have a negative impact on the plugs life though. Generally, Eberspacher make good kit, and the aux heater is fully serviceable so replacing the whole unit is realy a last resort. If they want to replace the control unit then I would want to know exactly what they are making that call on.

There seem to be an increasing number of auto-electricians that basically have very little skills or simply can't be bothered to properly diagnose. A failing or failed alternator would have been easy to spot, but given your symptoms would have been unlikely anyway. A failing battery on the other hand would have been more probable but could have been easily diagnosed to avoid you having to buy an unnecessary replacement. So, I would now question how exactly they are testing "unusual drain"? Ask them how they measured, what results they got and what they expected. Ask over what time frame they tested the car. If they have little clue they'll simply be measuring voltage drop - that

Humm, well remember I'm a Ford man so accept the info may be wrong but here are the results you have against what I would expect: 1= 3v ign off; This is the GALA Signal (Ford VSS) - Basically a speed signal so suprised to see a voltage here with the ignition off 2= spare; Correct this is the Telephone Mute input on vehicles with telephone provisions. 2V+ will mute the radio. 3= 11v ign on: Interesting. This is the K-Line for diagnositcs, its a signal line and normally sits at about 5V so 11V isn't really expected. 4= 12v ign off Correct Memory feed from F31 5= 1.5v ign off Incorrect. This is the SAFE pin which the radio requires to know when its attached to a vehicle. 12V from F32 (5A) would be expected here at all times. 6= 8v with sidelights on Correct this is the illumination feed and the voltage will vary with the dimmer 7= 12v ign off; Correct. This is the primary power from F30 8= capacitive earth With the radio in or out of circuit? F32 also supplies a feed to the heater controller on the black connector Pin70 (Red/White) so its certainly worth rechecking F32 in the fuse box, it should be the 6th in horizontal fuse.

Only applies to the Mk1, we are discussing the Mk2 :(