Mirez

30mpg is certainly low for a diesel, even the auto's should be getting 40+ with normal driving so check the key things as Chris mentions above. Driving style certainly has a lot to do with it though - I drive the galaxy the say way I drive the golf and normally see between 35 and 40mpg, If Steph drives then its always above 40 and normally on the good side, edging towards 50mpg. I still haven't fathomed out the difference as we take almost exactly the same time to do the same journey and even if I'm consciously trying I still can't get it that high. Then again flip that and the same is true of the Golf, I can get 70mpg (just) out of that where she struggles to get above 50 - I don't really know where I'm going with this post, normally I have a conclusion to make but on the subject of MPG? Phhh! :lol:

I believe it became part of the CJB so it'll be one of the multifunction relays rather then a seperate controller.

WTF? How has the rusted from the inside out?

Highly likely, there is 12V there most of the time even with the ignition off - I would suspect the central locking circuits been shorting to the electric window motor which will draw a good couple of amps (and flatten a battery overnight) but could also have drastically reduced the life of the motor and hence why you now have window trouble :( (although that could also be down to the wiring shorting out)

Blimey, how's an aluminum sump rust! Can't help on the actual sourcing of the replacement, but the 2.3 is a Ford engine that's also fitted to the Scorpio and Transit which might help you broaden the search!

Great price! The Galaxy is one of those cars which has a giant gap in prices - there are a mountain of poorly maintained, mis-treated examples out there which sell for little and bring the average down and then there are the odd excellent condition ones about that people will pay top money for as they are few and far between, its all about pricing it to reflect its condition.

07 Plate will be Mk3 - none of the above are "common" faults on the Mk3 and generally Mk3's seem to be reasonably reliable with the biggest issues being rogue system messages and trouble with the Converse+ system if its fitted.

Code 16 is "communications fault between PATS module and ECU"

Sorry mate I don't follow that logic! You wont put a new, warrented part in just because its not OEM put you'll put someones second hand crud in just because its stamped as OEM? There isn't much to go wrong with a glow plug so assuming its the life you are worried about of the non-oem one's, there is still no knowing how long/old the ones in the scrapped car are? If you must go OEM then try here: http://www.vwspares...._electrical.php or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-VW-SKODA-SEAT-BERU-GN855-GLOW-PLUGS-x4-(180VG0030)_W0QQitemZ300518857907QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=206287681712&rvr_id=206287681712&cguid=52448cc012d0a47a2eb72877fee5e1f4

Your consumer rights when you buy a used vehicle from a dealer If you bought the vehicle from a dealer, you will have certain rights under consumer law. A secondhand vehicle must match its description, be fit for its purpose, and be of satisfactory quality. However, the standard for meeting the requirement that the vehicle is of satisfactory quality will be lower because it is secondhand. A secondhand vehicle should be in reasonable condition and work properly. When deciding whether a secondhand vehicle is in reasonable condition it is important to consider the vehicle

Oh dear thats a bad way to jump to Mk2 ownership! I don't believe they have a responsibility to recover the vehicle but certainly "fit for purpose" applies here so you can get a full refund at the moment. That said any decent dealer will go out of their way given the issues you've had. Has it had a full service prior to purchase? Sounds certainly like it needs one, the 2,3 is actually a good solid engine and from what you describe it could potentially be a number of things but all minor in the great scheme of things. Possible fuel filter and/or spark plugs but possibly more likely is Relay 30 breaking up,

As above, perfect symptoms of water pump failure. Cracked head is unlikely but make sure you don't let it heat up to 130 again, ideally drive it as little as possible until its been diagnosed and fixed.

Ok well the first thing you need to do it get an idea of what current is being drawn, since you are disconnecting the battery already then its easy to do :) We are going to measure current here not voltage so you'll need to change the probes so the black is in the COM socket of the tester and the red is in the 10ADC socket (name changes but most testers will have 10A Max on that socket). Put the meter in the "current" mode, again it normally says 10A. 10Amp isn't that much so keep the doors closed and dont use any electrical circuit while you do this. You now need to connect the meter in series with the battery so put the black probe on the batteries + terminal and the red probe on the disconnected clamp - you basically want to complete the circuit using the volt meter and because of this you may get a little spark as you connect it.. The reading you get here will be the current draw, let it settle for a few minutes so you get a non fluctuating reading and then write this value down. Typically in an "off" state you would expect a current draw of less then 200ma and that's an upper limit - I suspect its gonna be higher then that given its flattening the battery overnight. You now need to find where that draw is going. If you have a Mk2 then you'll have the mini fuse box infront of the battery - undo the bolt for the first 100A fuse and connect the meter in series again here - reconnect the main battery clamp and check what you have here, from memory the 1st is the alternator and the second is the main feed to the cabin. Go through them all and hopefully you'll find one that matches the draw - what you don't want here is for the current to be splitting as it indicates you have more then one problem. I would suspect that you'll find the draw is being passed into the cabin as thats got the most number of individual circuits connected to it. If you've followed to this point then you've worked out which section of car is drawing the current. We can now narrow down further. You'll need to open the door now so disconnect again and turn off all the interior lights - you want the door open but the car to be "as off" so ideally remove the lamps you can't turn off such as footwell and tailgate ones. If you can't do that you'll need to calculate the additional current draw and subtract that from our figure. Now reconnect the meter in series (between the battery and clamp) and get someone to monitor the reading - you now need to disconnect and reconnect each fuse in turn whilst watching for significant change - when the reading significantly lowers you'll know which circuit is drawing the current. Remember as you reinsert the fuse that circuit will go live again and may draw some current so you'll have to wait for the reading to settle down again. Post back the result and we can help diagnose where the most likely cause will be. Finally remember to put the probes back into the Vma socket else you'll get a nasty suprise when you next try and read a voltage :)

Terminal 30 is Bosch speak for "Line from battery positive terminal (direct)" or the Positive for everyone else :) If its at lower level exceeded then you have a flat or extreamly low battery which would also account for your starting problems.

And once you've done that don't be that suprised if it still won't work. The 2.3's vacuum system isn't the most reliable in the world - but it is normally cheap to fix :)

The problem you have it that there are hundreds of wiring systems on a modern car that could be the cause. You need to identify which circuit is draining the current to start with, do you have a volt meter? I can guide you through the basics of current checking if you have a basic knowledge of electrical stuff. Dont leave it long, car batteries arn't designed to be run flat and it won't take that many of them to ruin your battery.

Its common-ish, but not for the problem you describe. My first thought was also "alternator fault" as when they begin to fail they don't rectify the voltage correctly and you end up with a pulsed output but reading more of your post it physically can't be as you state it happens when the engines off.

Not seen anything other then Ford's own IDS system. Its friggin expensive though!

Dosn't exist, wen't to online format around 03/04 time. Now called E-Tis which requires login.

Sorry, I didn't see the MP3 bit - no idea on the connects2 adapter. Ford do do a 6000 MP3 version of your current head unit though so might be worth investigating that option as presumably its CD changer can handle MP3's...

Not without an adapter, you need something like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-MONDEO-MK2-6-CD-AUTO-CHANGER-/160537897216?pt=UK_Audio_TV_Electronics_In_Car_Entertainment_GPS_In_Car_Audio_Players_PP&hash=item2560cde900

The square one with the fuse on it is deffinately the CD changer cable, you may have had one in the past and someones removed it. Check in the storage compartment in the rear (drivers side) and see if there is a grommet in the bottom. If there is then the cable would have been there (check under that its not been pulled out). The yellow plug carries remote control, telephone controls and VSS. On the Galaxy only the VSS cable is used (hence the one wire) and it basically tells the radio how fast you are going. As you increase speed the radio's volume slowly turns up to compensate for the increase in road noise - if its set correctly (option in level 2 menu) then you shouldn't detect it unless rapidly accelerating/braking.

Did they change the spark plugs on the service? Along with many other things that can cause low MPG the plug gap is extreamly important - if its not set then MPG can be down (sometimes dramatically depending on the gap the plug comes with as standard)

That's gonna be one fat mechanic!

Humm.. I see both points here, yes they are only human and mistakes happen and had it been on the first test then I would have agreed. The re-test is all about checking the repair or replacement of the items picked up on the first test though so a mistake here isn't really excusable. VOSA won't do anything other then log it, they dont go forward unless they have a number of complaints about the same garage so unless the garage is truely dodgy then they won't be that phased by a threat to notify them. If it were me I would take it back, get the ball joint done and tell them you intend to get another MoT done at their expense as you have lost faith in this garage.