Mirez

Well in interesting thing I've learned recently is to ignore conventional wisdom when driving the Galaxy! The norm is to change up as quickly as possible but I've found recently that letting it rev a little higher and keeping it lower gears when the speeds not as high has had a massive improvement. Ie, at 50mph I used to be in 6th, whereas now I'm still in 4th or just in 5th and I'm now getting it much higher then before.

Lol how? It's probably the biggest post I've done :D Yes nothing out of the ordinary to report its still attached, not knocking and feeling good. When (if) summer rolls around then I might strip it back and do a preliminary inspection but its only done 5K since so I would be danm miffed if there is any wear going on! Phil, it effects all Mk2's be it a Galaxy, Sharan or Alhambra - the only one I believe is different is the 4-Motion Sharan. I've yet to see a Mk1 with this issue but I believe they do have a similar joint so I wouldn't be suprised...

Its an oil TEMP gauge, I;m not aware of any VAG cluster that has a pressure gauge. It won't need programming though - the features will already be enabled on the cluster and the oil temperature sender is direct to the cluster so again it will just work. The auto cluster will NOT work though, well not without some fairly in-depth recoding - the speed sensor is different for the auto to the manual so the cluster's reading will be well out but thats not the main problem - the cluster is also responsible for creating the speed pulses that the rest of the car use so if its not seeing the correct signal itself then you'll also effect ESP, ABS, Park Assist and the Radio.

Any vehicle with a high windscreen rake will suffer stone chipping more easily, that's just simple physics. My only concern with repairing the screen is that's its a big old safety screen at the end of the day, they don't repair big cracks/chips purely because the screen will have a substantially lower impact resistance as a result - a screen shattering at 70mph+ is no laughing matter so you really need to think twice before attempting a repair yourself. If replacement isn't an option why not look to get a second hand screen? They are surprisingly easy to remove from a scrapped car...

Yes and No, they'll fit fine and providing you get the cluster from the same year you shouldn't have any real problems. The voltmeter will just work, there is no "signal" for this, it simply looks at the supply for the cluster, which or course they all have. The oil temperature gauge requires a sender in the bottom of the sump though, the only way to check that is to look at the sump from below and see if you have a big black sender screwed into the bottom or a circular blank where it would be fitted. If you don't have the sender then you'll need to swap the sumps with one that has got it (which isn't that tricky) before it will work.

I take it this is Halogen and not Xenon lighting? (Ie, you have the thumbwheel in the car?) If so pop that out and measure voltage here - a low/lack of voltage will make the motors think you are at the max setting and adjust to the bottom to compensate.

Hi Andy, you'll be using a USB cable I take it? VAG-Com is quite old now and was written back in the day when USB didn't exist - over the years its been tweaked so it can work but its designed for serial communications which is WAY slower then USB. Most report using VCDS (the new name for VagCom) works much better with USB cables. The problems you are experiencing are almost certainly down to communication errors with the computer trying to communicate too quickly with the car. There are a number of tweaks you can make to the software to attempt to correct the issue and you'll find a quite in depth thread on here regarding it if you search for VAGCOM issues.

You don't say what car? Mk1 or Mk2? The retaining bolts are behind the plastic body colored trim piece on the Mk2

You need to strip the assembly down before using anything like WD40 (which isn't really ideal anyway) however as long as the mechanism is working, ie it is actually retracting then its not an MOT failure, The speed isn't a factor. However if you're concerned then simply either remove the rear seats or leave them in the closed position - they can't test whats not there (again not a failure) and if the seats are stowed then they arn't allowed to "unstow" them so again it can't be tested.

Yes, the seatbelt buckles bolt hole (try saying that quickly!) is present on both sides so you can swap it around no problems. Obviously you'll need to swap the trim over from the other seat but other then that its an easy 15min job.

SSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :blush:

P reg will be under the ashtray in the center console. You need to remove not the whole assembly not just the insert and it'll be there - normally purple in color for some reason!

You need to adjust Channel 2 in the engine controller, there isn't a lot of "play" there though - about 75 up or down.

Well spotted :) Minor typo...

No, Early Mk1's use the D5W-Z heater, I believe they are interchangeable though...

It is the same :) Depending on the year of your own galaxy then it could be a different model however.

Not fitted mine yet, its next weekends task! Its only held with a circlip so should be easy to swap, getting to it might be another issue but again I'll have to let you know!

Temperature sensor failing - reasonably common but getting the right ones a bit tricky!

It never fails to amaze me that people actually fall for this, its not the first story I've heard about autoquake, we-buy-any-car and most of the others and you'll also find that nearly all of their own vehicles are ex-lease cars which have been ranted daily - so do youself a favour and avoid! Did they say what the "serious faults" were? To be fair though I don't know why you even bothered going down there for a measly

it sits down to the side of the front seat. You'll need to remove the plastic trim along the door opening and lift the carpet to get to the bolts

What was the sub-code? 00652 P0730 Transmission Shift-Range Controller - Signal - Incorrect Gear Ratio 00652 P0731 Transmission Shift-Range Controller - Gear #1 - Incorrect Ratio 00652 P0732 Transmission Shift-Range Controller - Gear #2 - Incorrect Ratio 00652 P0733 Transmission Shift-Range Controller - Gear #3 - Incorrect Ratio 00652 P0734 Transmission Shift-Range Controller - Gear #4 - Incorrect Ratio

Hi Simon, sounds like the common inner stub axel failure http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21141&st=0&p=156786&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=156786

There's no easy way to do this...no. You need the correct frequency and the correct manufacturer, you'll never get the hella one to work :unsure:

You don't - its all one assembly and must be renewed as one. If your new one hasn't got it then you've been sold a rear belt rather then a front belt (or an early Mk1 version which didn't have the pre-tensioner).

Is that a rubber hose or metal pipe? Any good motor factors should be able to supply hose, failing that a hydraulics company will also do. There is one near here called "Pirtek" who I've used a number of times for automotive pipe, when I replaced my pipe to the aux heater it was nearly