Mirez

I'm more worried as to why you running the engine with the cap removed!? If its up to temperature then its reasonably normal to have vapour from both - it should look more like steam then anything else, like a 5 minute old cup of coffee in a room at normal temperature.

10.2V to be exaxt and 16.4V for the upper, but I think the point is not that the thresholds changed between the two - its that if you have a battery on the way out then a low voltage condition could impede the start of the heater. However In reality, 10.4V would probably struggle to turn a cold diesel engine over anyway so I doubt you be that concerned at that point! :) That said the most I've seen was a 1.2V loss between the battery and aux heater - its therefore conceivable that a battery at 11.4V could actually be at the threshold voltage of the heater although the loss is generally more like .4V Chris, waiting for you email address buddy :)

The Run on pump's not electrically linked to the aux heater on the Galaxy, ie, the vehicle controls it not the heater so having it removed sadly won't be the cause. They are very quiet when new but are still easily heard with the bonnet open just after switch off - if its not working then tap it and it then it may start up, a sure fire sign that the brushes have gone.

Yup just lever it out from the sides and back, the fronts is the "hinge" if you like with the longer plastic pieces. It should be that on the earlier (pre 03) cars then the clock was illuminated with a small dash lamp - post 03 then it changed to LED however in reality it seems to be a couple of years either side of this and more dependent on spec then anything else.

Batteries about

As I've mentioned before you could have both heated seats and multimedia system WITH swivel seats up until around the end of 2001 when they realised it wasn't such a good idea. From then, If you added the multimedia pack the swivel option was deleted, however you could still order heated seats with swivel option right up until the end of 2005

No, been a bit manic - using the RM website it should be

Sweet! How tempted are you to try position 2-9 though? :) B)

IF I've read how you have it wired up correctly then here: Make sure you use a switch that can handle the current, it'll also disable the blower everytime its turned off (so not just when the timers set) - the trouble you have is that unknown supply from 87a, else you could have switched the input to 87

What? I don't see what you are asking me? The normal way a relay is wired are: 30 is a + supply 87 is an input 87a is an output 85 is the coil's ground 86 is the coil's supply If you are trying to disable the vehicle blower when the timers working then it would appear to be as simple as removing both sides of the blower cable from the relay and connecting them back together, You could try just removing the 30A fuse from the supply you installed but it looks like that might also be a supply for the system. The red and blue thinner cables from 87 and 87a are also forming a switch which would suggest its either the water pump feed or the supply to the aux heater itself.

Nail and Head :rolleyes: The loading is never as even as the simple calculation, for example it will dramatically increase during braking and cornering. To illustrate this using your own figures and making some fairly broad assumptions as well : They are rated to carry a load of 650kg each or 1300KG per axel and making a total load rating of 2600kg. The maximum gross vehicle weight of this vehicle is 2450kg. During braking as much as 40% of the vehicle weight can transfer to the front; lets call it 30% which will give us a load change of 735KG. Therefore during a heavy brake the front axel is additionally loaded to 1960KG or 330KG outside of the rated value of these tyres - 125% of the individual tyres rated value. That's not supposed to alarm or condescend and its a VERY crude calculation based on lots of assumptions and over estimates. Its also not a true representation of the load idex but its a good way to illustrate how weight can shift about. Whilst not really related to the question If you have an hour (and want to get to sleep!) take a read of this article as its much better then me at explaining how forces are moving about: http://www.ozebiz.co...ry/wttrans.html

If its a case of needing to replace the cluster and you have a Mk2 one knocking about then no. If its a case of wanting the newer look then theoretically yes, the aperature is a different size though so the dash would need to be modified and a monumental amount of rewiring and jigging would be required but the signals are largely the same between Mk1 and Mk2 so it "should" be possible.

Bummer - to answer your question yes I did connector wiring into the blue connector. Be wary of comparing info from either me or chris on this though as mine is a OEM VAG part and I believe Chris's in OEM Mercedes so the connections will probably be different anyway. I presume you have a control unit somewhere? Could you send it back for programming?

Sotal, are you uk mainland? I'll price it tomorrow but can't see it being more then a few quid.

Must be one of the disadvantages of the ebay kit, my OEM kit only turns the blower on once the water temp hits a certain temperature - not exactly sure what temp this is but its normally around 15 minutes after the initial start up - during the -10*c period last winter it was just over 20 minutes before it came on.

The pulleys are all plastic which is why they should be renewed as a set when the cambelt is changed - sounds likes

Fold them flat using either the handle on the side (or the one on the rear of the seat) If you have the multimedia pack with DVD / Center Console then remove the middle headrest else on the back, underside of each seat you should have a red piece of material - tug firmly on this towards the back of the car and the seat should detach at the rear - lift it so its "standing" on the front of the seat - squeeze the metal handles together and lift it out at the same time.

Certainly, my only concern would be when as my weekends are busy at the moment and the evenings are dark but I'm sure we could work a time out :lol: If the motor and plug ane new then it suggests the fault is on the other side of that connector (which is the main ECU board if I've understood your description) - you could have anything from a controller issue to a dry joint. Dry joint's being the more likely but a quite a pain because the ECU is potted to make it waterproof. Do you have a soldering iron? You could heat each pin in turn on the connector - depending on the irons power then hold it there long enough to reflow the solder on that pin which will fix a joint issue. I wouldn't be worried about single clicking noises, thats just a relay either energising or deactivating - if its lots of clicking then be more concerned.

Pah, nothings impossible but it is tricky :lol: Unfortunately its not as simple as changing just the controller - A long time back I did a climate upgrade on a mondeo and there was a fair bit of additional stuff to do on that so I suspect the galaxy to be just slightly harder. If you are competent at wiring/electrics then you'll be fine providing you have a doner vehicle from which to rob the parts from but to be honest, the Galaxy climate system isn't that good at regulating the temperature anyway...

Its a potted PCB so you'll have to remove all the weatherproof gunge before you can properly test it.

Hi George, I wouldn't be that worried as the big numbers are just quick reference numbers for VW - ideally quote the long part number off it and I'll tell you what its for, but if it were me I'd simply remove it and cycle the ignition - if the pump is still working when the ignition's back off then its not the right one! If its not then its highly likely to be the one you want :unsure:

Interesting, my dealer-fit kit required removal of the CJB as well and only one wire connected at the back of the climatronic module - where did you get your kit chris?

Not really, the TDI is so efficient that pump issues only really surface during long idle periods or heavy workouts. Given the symptoms its the most likely culprit at this stage. You are correct that its timing belt driven, probably worth getting it changed at the same time.

Don't have a pic handy but its reasonably easy to find in the engine bay, personally I would go in from below but some say its easier from above as you don't need to remove the undershield. Either way, you are looking at the bulkhead inline with the coolent tank. You can't miss it as its a short 3cm stub of rubber coming out from the bulkhead - if you have some spare pipe then extend it whilst you're at it as the short stub is a bit of a design flaw which allows the drain water to soak the sound deadening.

Water pump impellor adrift would be the more likely cause - ie replace the water pump!