Mirez

FYI, APD have now moved: Unit 2A, Handlemaker Road Frome, Somerset BA11 4RM Tel: 01373 456 100 Fax: 01373 465 591

I did :lol: Posted 16 May 2008 - 03:55 PM: http://www.fordgalax...showtopic=16425 I should clarify that I wasn't suggesting your price was excessive, just making a few points with regards to price and operation. I fully encourage anyone who can help out fellow members and a £30 saving will still be worth it to a fair few people I'm sure.

You can buy new pumps direct from Bosch for

Sadly not mate, I have one of the plastic ones and its just as crud as the Ford original - possibly even worse as the plastic prevents it being bent adjusted to fit. :lol:

One and the same :lol:

The 2.3 is chain driven not belt and has no scheduled replacement interval.

<P>I *think* thats the official version (which is wrong!) I believe the 2nd pulley up on the right, instead of coming back inside that one it should just follow the route around the outside.</P>

Which diagram are you following? IIRC the official TIS one is actually wrong!

Remove them, its easier (and warmer) then faffing about with them in situ if they are that grubby. Slide the seat all the way to the front, remove the two 13mm bolts at the back of the tracks. Slide the seat all the way to the back, remove the two bolts at the front of the tracks - lift the front so the seat pivots on the rear (preferably get some help here so it won't come down on your head!). Open the yellow clasp and undo the connector - remove the seat from the car. <br><br>Re fittings the same, just grease the threads of the bolts prior to fitting and get all 4 in before tightening them up.<br><br><br>

The rapid tick-tick noise is the dosing pump, its controlled by the heater itself though so a lack of noise won't necessarily indicate the pumps dead but it does mean that, as suspected, the heaters not firing. The problem with taking it to a Ford dealer is that as I've mentioned on other threads, the heater speaks VW and not Ford, so they can't communicate with it. That not only makes diagnostics much harder but also means they can't clear a lockout error (multiple re-occurrences of the same fault which shuts the heater off and won't reset when the faults corrected) To half defend Ford - with regard the sensor bridging, they would more likely have fed a direct 12V feed into the connector down at the heater itself - it would be much easier then shorting out the sensor itself. The cost of the exhaust cost is also extremely steep but again you've not gone direct - Eberspacher (the manufacturer) will add their mark-up then sell the part to the VW group, who will have added their mark-up and then sold it to Ford, who will have added their mark-up and sold it to you and hence the cost. Personally I wouldn't bother taking it back again, they are far too limited by communications and parts availability to fix it without ordering it as an assembly. A VW, Audi or Seat dealer would be a much better bet or any independent VAG specialist. Given the fact you've taken the scuttle panel off and got involved, I think you would be better advised to tackle the fault yourself - find someone local who had VAG-Com and can read the fault for you and clear any lingering errors - its one of the easier parts to get out and fiddle with :P

<P>Easy, bumper off, rear support bar off, slide tow bar assembly in, bolt to existing holes, wirein using pre-existing grommet - throw away support bar, bumper back on. Took me 3 hours the first time, 40 minutes last time :P</P>

5 Years or 60K is the normal timing belt interval for a 55 plate but if its free then woohoo! Turbo whistling on hard overrun is no real problem, its simply venting the pressure - you possibly have a slight air leak but nothing to worry about. The noise you describe could possibly be the start of DMF failure, they make a metallic whirring sound to start and then turn more into a chatter....

Officially, the 130 and 150 models are MORE economical then the 115. Certainly our 130 is a good couple of MPG higher then our previous 115 over the same journey.

Is it dissapearing when you press the brake pedel? Its supposed to stay on from ignition until the brake's have been used...

Use the search function, its not exactly an uncommon fault :18: The wiring between the tailgate and body fraying witll be the most likely cause.

The problem is that the Mk2 Galaxy isn't a Ford, its a VW. The eberspacher heater speaks pure VW, not Ford so communications isn't great. The dealers also don't have the full range of parts available to them like VW - if you look up the heater on Ford's part system its a complete assembly, not seperate components. U2B51 is the Ford Code for "PCM Controller Failure", which is basically the same as what VAG-Com told you.

I would be wary, when I changed mine (to add the quality sensor) I found that the variations can be minor but cause a lot of problems! I sourced a later sharan 2.0 PD version to start with which looked identical but when offering it up I found that actually one of the bolt holes had been moved about 4mm to the right. The second one I gof from a passat and that had additional holes in the side where a support braket sits for something else. Best to get one thats for the purpose, whilst its actually very easy to swap the sump on the galaxy, you don't want to be having to put the old one back on again because of some minor variation. In the end I sent all the sellers on ebay who were breaking a galaxy a message, got one delivered with engine loom for

Thats correct, the control module is bolted to the side of the heater and makes up the case. 65535 is an internal memory error, reset the code and see what happens. Generally on non critical kit (such as the heater) then if its still working then ignore it, else replace. I see no reason why those with the later Z-F models couldn't swap them for the previous Z varients, the revisions seem to be largely internal.

The pipe coming adrift at the motor is nothing that new, its basically a VW Mk4 Golf motor unit and these are very well know for the issue! The only difference is the galaxy has an even worse connection in the passenger footwell which breaks first :( You can adjust the angle (and therefore height) of the rear jet using a needle - the jet itself is in an eyeball style socket that allows quite a lot of adjustment,.

Hi Torq, the quality/level sensor feeds into the cluster directly and will put a message on the LCD panel if it detects a dry sump - I'm not sure the exact requirement but it appears to need the engine running as mines been on (ultra steep down hill stretch) whilst driving yet if I try and get it to come on like you did it won't. If you have the FIS (full screen LCD -which you should do if you have oil temp guage) then the oil pressure warning is again built into the LCD display, its only on the half FIS screen that you have an LED in the lower section to indicate low pressure.

Garage prices, probably

Kev its one and the same, the only difference is the sounder for the rears is mounted behind the nearside trim panel in the boot and the front sounders down there with the control unit.

Ahh ok, then no you don't :) There is nothing more to be gained by removing the cover. With the bonnet open you'll see a rubber seal between the cover and the extension panel - pull that off. You may also have a small foam cushion on either end of the rubber seal which should also be removed. Next, you'll find one bolt in the center from the engine side which needs to removed and another two at each end, next to the bonnet hinges and these are acessed from the other side. Once the three bolts are out then the extension panel pulls out forward. I normally remove the airbox (one allen bolt) which makes it easier to slide it out away from the coolent bottle. You should then be able to change the pump :) Good luck!!

Why do you want to? Unless you are planning to remove the wiper linkage there isn't much to be gained from removing it - the scuttle itself is 3 bolts and it slides out leaving the plastic grills behind.

Hi Darren, a ticking sound from the sensor is only a basic indication that its working so you can't rule them out based just on that. The front parking loom runs in a channel on the front bumper and around to the nearside wing, its unlikely you've managed to disturb it as its not readily accessible without removing bits of bumper.