Mirez

You are extreamly welcome, its so nice to have someone who actually listens to the advice given and then comes back with further info and/or results! I can't give you the sensor measurements I'm afraid but they do sell for a fair bit so don't chuck them away! Good luck tomorrow, any basic voltmeter should do you - they are so cheap now its not worth not having one!

Hi Calvin and welcome to the forum... would it not be easier to obtain a second hand control module? If you really do want to install a whole new system then removing the old one should be quite easy, hopefully the holes will match on the rear and you can install the new sensors in them. Brown is the ground, reverse supply will be black with a blue trace. Not forgetting that the reverse lights are in the tailgate not the main cluster so you'll need to find the loom running up the near side D pillar and splice in there - you really REALLY need to use a suitable volt meter to locate the correct cable though - guess work isn't advisable on any electrical system.

If you have no jet engine sound then the aux heater probably isn't working - that alone will cause it to take forever to warm up although a thermostat fault will cause the same. The idle problem could be caused by ay one of countless sensors along with a few other bits and pieces - ideally you should look to get the fault cods read, cleared and the read again to see what needs inspection. Dead glow plugs will have an effect on idle when cold, fortunately they are a doddle to change on the galaxy. I would seriously consider buying or borrowing a VAG-Com cable and software - you'll be able to see what sensors are faulty on the engine (including the temp sender), interogate the ABS system to find whats putting that light on and and generally inspect the electrical circuits of the car. Fortunately nothing you've got sounds overly nasty, a bit of a pain true but you should be able to fix everything on that list as DIY for less then a couple of hundred in new parts.

Hi and Welcome! Don't be put off, they are cracking cars once you are on top of the faults! :) Welcome to the forum...

Not really, It'll show major electrical faults and thats about it, the secondary water pump is just a dumb 12V motor pump and isn't monitored so it won't show. It will show some faults with the heater flap motor, the ballest resistor and temperature sensors.

Happy new year yourself :) When you lock with the remote you should hear the normal lock noise followed by a quick, half second delay and then a much quieter secondary lock noise - that

Probably because most of us can't be bothered to reply to some lazy newbie who didn't use the search engine and thinks his issue is ultra unique and has never been asked and SOLVED before...

1.9 TDI with 115 is an AUY engine

Check very carefully the wiring connectors under the seats - you'll need to remove the seat ideally to get proper access to the connector and remove the tape around it. I've fixed countless ones now where the cable hasn't been clamped properly by the crimp, couple that with them wrapping the cabling excessively so the out side cables are over tight - they seem to come loose quite often. If you are handly with a soldering iron then replace the connector entirely, I use PC D-Sub ones so they can still be removed, can be bolted together and can be purchased gold plated if required.

Hi Gybe, you need the radio to be on for the system to work - if you turn the radio off then the MM system shuts down after roughly 10 minues - pulling F30 is the main supply for the radio which will self test when powers restored (and activate the MM timer again)

Year. Make and Varient would help!

Very few people carriers offer enough space to carry a full compliment of people and offer luggage space as well - full specs for the Galaxy here: http://www.ford.co.uk/cs/BlobServer?blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobcol=urldata&blobheadervalue1=attachment%3Bfilename%3D%22New+Galaxy+eBrochure.pdf%22&blobheadervalue2=abinary%3Bcharset%3DUTF-8&blobheadername1=Content-Disposition&blobheadername2=MDT-Type&blobheader=application%2Fpdf&blobwhere=1214378503730&blobkey=id

Hey Bryan and happy christmas to you as well Pin 1 - Permanent Supply (Memory) Pin 2 - Ignition Supply Pin 3 - Illlumination + Pin 4 - Ground Pin 5 - Not Used

Yes, removed the passenger seat, you need the replacement carcass unit in the correct color - if you don't have the battery then its essentially the plastic surround the seat sits on - with the battery it continues in to make a battery compartment which houses the battery and charger (well the OEM kit does) you need to relocate the parking sensor controller slightly as the bolt studs are used to hold the carcass down but you can see when its fitted exactly where it should be.

Well sorted, sorry dim moment I actually thought it was the "passenger side light bulb" that had failed and not the passenger side, light bulb. lol Removal of the battery is the easier way of doing the N/S headlamp, but as above, removing the assembly is by far the easiest way of doing the side light. There is an "access flap" in both front wheel arches to get to both the sidelight and the indicator lamps, though quite who the access was designed for remains a mystery as it certainly wasn't a human arm!

Weight distribution is probably the second biggest influencing factor, with the first being the tyres. If you have ESP then its possibly worth turning it off as well, the VW system is stupidly aggressive and both the golf and galaxy suck in this weather when its on - it acts very digitally in that the brake it either on or off for the wheel thats slipping, ie its not smoothly applied. In normal conditions that works quite well but on snow/ice with little traction the wheel just locks, ESP detects that, releases the brake fully and, if you still have your foot on the accelerator, the wheel then gets a surge of speed and hence spins up again. Of course ESP detects that, brakes the wheel, locks it up again and the cycle repeats until you either stall because both front brakes are being applied at the same time or have lost all the momentum and just spin out.

For some insane reason there are 3 joins in that pipe! 1) N/S/F Footwell 2) NS/R D Pillar (Some don't seem to have this for whatever reason) 3) N/S of Tailgate - roughly in line with the mid point of the screen Plus of course the two ends where it exits the bottle and enters the motor assembly. A common fault from Mk4 Golf's where the pipe either falls off or the plastic breaks at the motor - and guess what? Its the same motor assembly used on the galaxy...

Yes, but its SOOO much easier! However if you park up somewhere so the front faces a wall with about 4 or 5 feet gap then turn the lights on and chalk out where the passenger side headlight is alligned on the wall, you can then safely remove the assembly, change the lamp and refit using the chalk points for reference to align it all back up again :lol:

Correct, Mk1's dont have the pump, the only exception being the "cold climate" regions where the auxillary heater has the timer function where a small plastic pump is fitted down next to it...

Hi and welcome to the forum, it is indeed normal for most diesel engines to produce little waste heat on idle - the aux heater is there to overcome this issue but with it not working, ambient temperatures below 6 and a high heat requirement by the user then its not that strange to see the temperture starting to drop when idling only.

Been up to the shed.. damn its cold! -3 in there, but found it... well found 2 actually :16: There are no lamps in it though so you'll have to swap those over prior to fitting. £25 posted, well assuming the royal mail calculator is correct and its £4.41 to post :16:

Gents, do a search for "door wiring" - your problems are almost certainly a breakdown of the insulation on the wiring between the car and door.

505.01 is the important figure, so yes that should be fine as it meets the specification. TBH, thats one of the cheapest prices I've seen - my only concern would be the manufacturer but thats purely because I've never heard of them - I'm sure plenty have. Camskill is normally where I buy my stuff from, at the moment they have Coma 505.01 at

Think I have an offside headlight assembly knocking about in the shed - will take a look for you.