Mirez

Do you really think he's been waiting 8 years for your solution? :D

Full set of Mk2 External door handles in Spruce Green Full set of Mk2 Doorcards in Kenzo Beige Full set of Mk2 Electric Window switches Offers taken on any item before ebay...

No, different coding entirely.

Hi Rick, it seems to be a common misconception on here that the sensors ticking indicates nothing wrong with them. Thats unfortunately not the case, it simply indicates the sensor has power. Listening for the ticking noise is really the very minimum check that can be done, indeed I've seen multiple sensors that have failed in the past which will tick merrily away so you really can't use it to confirm the sensors working. If the modules never been wet then its highly unlikely to have failed, which is a good thing given the cost of the replacement unit is around

Professional tuning boxes work fine, its the sub

Yes it'll still start the car, but you still can't add keys yourself and if the ecu decides not to accept the code for whatever reason then thats both keys gone.

Or, if like me you are paranoid about it happening again, all three :)

Yes, everything is programmed to the immobiliser - even the stupid plastic little "Emergency Key" you got from factory were (or rather they could be if the dealer could be bothered) You'll need TWO individual keys to add a third to the immobiliser system, there is no way around it other then going to a dealer if you don't have the two keys. The cheaper option is to get the existing key cloned but then you still won't have two individual keys allowing you to add more, but at least you will have two independent keys.

lol, just don't ask me how I know all this crap! :angry:

I would have thought so, its held be fixing holes that should be present on all the bonnets but I would imagine you'll also need the scuttle and wiper spindle surrounds.

I really doubt you have an alternator problem with the issues you describe. The fact it got better when you removed the fusebox panel would suggest the fault is in that area, possibly with a relay and/or the wiring around that area - its very hard to diagnose electrical faults over the internet but I would take the unit apart again and remove and clean the contact of the relays and fuses. Are any fault codes being registered?

Alternator problems can present themselves as a flickering or pulsing of the dashboard lights - it's unlikely to be intermittent though and unless your battery isn't being charge then I wouldn't be suspecting it at the moment Its Relay 30 (Sometimes badged 27) you need to be looking for not 20 :angry:

Its a sharan/alhambra thing - the galaxy has a different scuttle cover and panels so the extender thats attached to the bonnet isn't needed. Its only the late 05> (IIRC) gal's that have this style.

Press the screen button until number 1 or 2 lights up on the control panel (whichever screen you need to control, left is 1, right is 2) then press the Media button - the OSD should come up with VCR or AUX press the media button again until VHS is highlighted then you should have both screens up.

Grr I did have a nice big reply ready for you but this forum sucks so I've had to retype the whole thing - instead, here's the highlights: Controller should be powered at all times, receives an "on" signal from the dash radio in the form of 12V from the "power antenna" pin. Is the radio stock? Do you have 12V at that pin and more importantly is it still 12V when it arrives at the media controller? <10V isn't acceptable. Controller checks all attached devices at start up and won't if anything is faulty. Wiring issues under the seat are common, have you checked the connectors here? The system will function with one screen detatched. Disconnect the wiring plug at the control module for each monitor in turn and try again to rule out a wiring/screen fault prohibiting operation. The DVD player has phono outs on the back of it, most house TV's have a composite video in - a long cable between the two should rule out if the DVD player has stopped producing video (unlikely) similarly after that a shortish cable from the DVD player to the Aux in socket should confirm if the controllers accepting video from a different source. Aftermarket systems very hard to wire into the factory system in a neat way - not least because you need a controller to talk to the screens. From what you've described it sounds like the you've simply fooled the DVD player into firing up. The controller appears to still be in a sleep state hence you have no video and no IR as neither of these circuits are active at all times. I would concentrate my efforts here looking at the permanent 12V, the ground and the Signal On from the radio being ok and then check the screen wiring. It certainly sounds like the DVD player is ok and its a controller issue at the moment.

You don't need the control panel just use the remote! If you dont have the remote then you'll need a new panel (or repair yours) - you can wire a DVD playing into the underside of the VHS player using the "Line In" sockets.

I would suggest you look for a blown fuse and also then remove and check the wiring in the drivers door - you probably have one or more broken wires in there but the short circuit in the tailgate wiring allowed the circuit to complete. Now you've repaired that its not working. Personally I would cancel the diagnostic with Ford, in my experience they won't tell you what the wiring issue is just on the initial instpection but simply tell you you have a general wiring fault which will require more extensive diagnostics.

Coupled with the wrong manufacturer's alloys for the car, you only need an inspector who knows his stuff and they'll invalidate the policy and not pay out. (FYI these days you are also then likely to be prosecuted as if you had no insurance!)

I would agree with that, nothing in the door wiring should effect the remote operation if it works fine with manual C/L. Key fob fail seems to be quite common but again for no apparent reason - I had the PCB under a scope and tested, there is no clear reason why they fail. :5:

Probably not although its a bit hit and miss as to what was fitted at the factory but most Galaxy's/Sharan's/Alhambra's with 15 inch steel wheels come with the smaller brake discs whereas your one with 16's should have the regular discs - net result is that the 15's won't sit over the caliper on your car.

lol "S" will be Mk1. Mk2 starts on X plate and go's to 06 with the odd 56 knocking about :wacko:

Its not difficult just time consuming. The carpet is in two pieces on a Galaxy with a joint in line with the back of the front seats, the rear requries the removal of all seats, plastic anchor point covers, boot panels and door scuff plate. Front requires the removal of front seats, under trays, hanbrake surround, gearshift surround and door scuff plates again.

Hi, standard CV joint grease is all thats needed. I dont recall ever finding a torque figure for the allen bolt but the half shaft bolts are torqued to 80Nm

A flickering of the electrics with the engine running is nearly allways down to a rectification problem within the alternator, you should check the wiring to and from the alternator for signs of damage or looseness and then replace the alternator - don't leave it and longer then you have to as there is a risk of damage to the electrical systems and battery.