Mirez

Well your suspention setup is lower then mine which could account for some deviation - I don't drive it daily and I've only just realised she's taken all the rear seats out for some reason so those figures will again be slightly different as its unladen! If ADP (Adaption) is coming back as OK then yours is reporting its happy but I find it quite weird that both our readings are 80% though...<BR><BR>I'm not 100% sure what adjusting the lights manually achieves, I believe when you do it the motors set the headlights to the default (or central) position and you then manually adjust them to suit - all further adjustments are done by the motors based on the sensors. To that effect if the default load position isn't setup correctly they'll never level correctly!

2.34V and 2.62V are mine... might need to look into that as its reading an 80% load...

I used KYB ones, seemed to be ok - certainly rides fine now - tbh, I spent a good couple of hours looking into what to buy - it seems to all be down to personal preference in the end with any shock up to about

I wil do tonight, how much did you lower it by then? Not had anny issues after my drop albeit it was only a 30

Also running with Kumho Ecsta Sports, 225/50/17's - been fine so far in 12K, a good midrange tyre.

Ahh, the 4 pin version is the manual version not the climate - haynes seem to concentrate on the lower, I guess more commonly fitted stuff.

I assume this is for a climate version not a manual dial version? Pin 1 - White/Blue - Control Pin 2 - Black/Red - To Motor Pin 3 - Brown - To Ground

The sound deadening is like house underlay - its a mixture of felt, wool and general fluff compacted down to make the material and it lives under the carpet. <BR><BR>You need to remove as much as needed to find the water - given its the passenger footwell then thats all you need to start with. Remove the kick trim that runs along the bottom of the door opening (3 or 4 screws under covers). That should be enough to lift the carpet up and get your hand inbetween to feel if the felt is dry or not. <BR><BR>

It'll have gone back into the chassis side of the vehicle, you'll need to remove the D pillar cover from the near side and you'll find the wiring loom running up there - It should be easy enough to find - has the fuse not popped? Suprised if its not shorting out back there!

100% you have a leak, there is no way thats from breathing - unless you are all living in it? I remain convinced that pipe can't be making a suitable seal. Since there is now a further question about its integrity just replace it... its gonna be a lot less then a tenner from a scapyard. I'm not reffering to the carpet as being wet but the sound deadening below it, the carpets plastic backed so you won't feel it on-top - you have to remove the trims around the doors and lift it up to see whats happening with the deadening material

Have a searh about, there is plenty of info about which lead to buy. For cheapness its a knocked off ebay lead and download the software from the ross-tech site and no, it won't give you the radio code,

Hi There, Thanks for the advice , is a VAGCOM the diagnostic tool that resets the ABS lights etc? If so the garage tried to reset my ABS light after a lot of Brake work , and found they couldn't as it had an after market radio for all reasons? Something to do with ICE installers liking to use the live feed that usually powers the Diagnostics tools. :-/ What I'm also looking for is a ford DVD that covers the engine ,you know the sort of thing they use in the dealerships that give an exploded view of the lump and all the auxiliaries along with part numbers etc? Does such a beast exist? Many thanks again for your help. Kindest regards, Alex. Think you are looking for the Ford TIS CD, its not as detailed as a haynes manual but covers most things well. With regard to the diagnostic issue, did they actually try or did they simply not bother because it had the aftermarket radio? The basic principle is there is a single wire connecting all the modules in the car together, this lives at a signal voltage of about 10V for most of its life and is only taken to ground by a diagnosic tool to start communications. Aftermarket radios tend to be wired to put 12V on the diagnostic pin, a hangup from old electric aerials - because its a feed 12V with a high current capacity it tends to blow older diagnostic kit up which isn't expecting it to be there - as a result a lot of garages simply refuse to connect with aftermarket radios in place. If the garage is good though they can easily check, and the modern diag kit should also be fully protected.

The green/black being the supply, the black/yellow being the trigger. Point to note is that the wiring colours change at the plug to the motor so make sure you use the chassis side if you are continuity testing!

I would agree, any turbo shut down should be triggering a fault code so get someone to read the codes. Ideally, get someone local with vagcom to do it for you and reset the codes at the same time - you can then get it scanned a couple of days later to work out which codes are new and which ones were old before you start chasing a fault from 2006 :rolleyes: With regards to MAF, MAS, Turbo Vanes, you could do them all if you really wanted to - it all depends on how confident a DIY'er you are. MAF is certainly one you shouldn't be taking to a dealer for, its extreamly easy to change - same for the MAP sensor. The vanes themselves are a pain to get at, the actuator itself much easier. VagCom should help identify the best route to take with regards replacement/repair - given the symptoms MAF is unlikely, MAP more likely and Vanes/actuator highest on the list.

It could easily, you'll be suprised (well maybe not!) at how little an amount of water can condensate greatly when the outside temperature is so cold and the cabins heated. Nobody seems to have noticed though: http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7988/p1020261l.jpg That pipe (is it copper?) is NOT standard fitment! The white/black pipes should go to the four plastic drain connectors of the sunroof directly - that extra bits ringing major alarm bells for me. Even from a basic plumbing point of view, the pipe the water is being transfered in to ALWAYS go's on the outside of the adjoining piece - unless there is some sort of rubber seal or something wedged in between the copper and inside of the sunroofs plug then there is no way a water tight seal is being created there and thats 100% where the waters coming from! The question you need to ask now is why that white/black pipe is 8 or so inches short... wheres the rest of it gone? All I can think of is that its become disconnected at some point at dropped down in between the inner and outter wing - hopefully you'll be able to recover it back up from the wing and its not been chopped off at the other end by whoever bodged it in the first place. The next concern is where that water is currently sitting, for the amount of condensation you have, something will be wet somewhere - my guess would be the sound deadening under the front carpet in that corner - as gregers has said you need to get some heat in her quickly, dry everything with paper towels / kitchen roll and heat it all up - use a hairdrier for the hard to reach bits. Left like that you'll start to get corrosion in the wiring connectors and that'll be a major headache to sort.

Hi Oiehere, welcome to the site! The FAQ is here: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=7886 it covers the common issues for both Mk1 and 2 so you'll have to search specifically for the problem rather then the model. The Galaxy is a joint venture between Ford, VW and another manufacturer called SEAT. VW and SEAT are part of the same group known as VAG (VwAudiGroup) so the parts on the car will either be VAG or Ford. Sinec the engine in yours (the 2.3) is the Ford designed one then the dealer most prepared for your car will probably be a Ford dealer. There is a large german forum for the Galaxy / Sharan hence why there arn't many German chaps on here so I think you might struggle to find someone with local dealer knowledge. Good luck!

Well Daz can't know everything ;) As I said though you can only fit what you believe to be the best, but I still think you can't make any comparisons - there are just way too many variables to draw anything conclusive, you don't know why the plugs failed to start with nor the number of short journeys the cars doing, nor the age of the heater, the condition of the battery, the start temperature (outside/garage), the hours of use, the time its been down due to the failure, the type and cleanliness of the diesel, the condition of the air blower, the condition of the aux pump etc, etc.. all things that will have an effect on temperature and therefore the reliability of the plug. I'm not saying you shouldn't fit the newer plug, I just can't see the logic in trying to convince people to spend twice as much on something thats not confirmed to be a "better" replacement and something thats not designed for use with the heater. :)

Just to pick up on your additional point, Unfortunately nearly all parts advisors go purely off the date stamps listed on Microcat, which simply lists the year builds the plug fits not the heater model the vehicle actually had fitted at production.

Unfortunately I hold nearly all main dealers with the same regard, money grabbing liars, so I don't really trust the opinion of your "Vag master technician", however I'm not disbelieving that you've been told it, I'm simply stating the official stance from the manufacturer, Eberspacher (Espar), that the primary cause for glowplug failure is the way the heater was implemented by the VAG group. The trouble with your assumption about complaints and proof is that the D5WZ-F didn't go into production until 2004, but wasn't fitted to Gal's until 2005. its impossible to get a clear result as to the life of the plugs vs age vs volume. The Z was fitted to X>54 plates, where the F was only fitted for a two year (05/55) production window. Couple that with the dwindling sales for 05/55 galaxy's vs the strong early Mk2 sales, factor in the failures due to age and you're bound to have substantially more complaints about the older, more common fitted plug. My final point would be, given the extra revenue to espar, why this new miricle plug wouldn't be listed as being compatible with the Z and/or why a wiring harness adaptor isn't available? Its most likely that they, like me, don't believe there is a benefit to the end consumer. However at the end of the day its individual opinion, you have to fit what you believe to be the best value for money / most reliable, but please don't state it as being the "correct" plug for the heater when its actually a non approved plug from a different model. ;)

Sotal, I'm sorry but you have been misled. The flying lead version is for the later D5WZ-F heater and the bolt on version is for the D5W-Z. Whilst the flying lead version can be made to fit the Z, its not designed for use with it and is not shown as being compatible. The official reason the plugs only last a short period of time is due to the implementation in the 7M platform without provision for heater run-on or quick stop conditions. Nothing at all to do with plug design! The flying lead version lasts longer in the Z-F model purely because the ECU controls it differently, fitting it to the earlier model is highly unlikely to have any benefit.

No idea, never had the V6. It looks to be bolted just under the chain cover but I don't know how easy that is to remove - lots and lots of references about to wiring damage around the thermostat area.

P0346 is an adaption limit error for the camshaft sensor so either: your sensors knackered the wirings damaged the chains slipped (unlikely unless its been fiddled with recently) Its quite unlikely to be a coil/plug issue - if its receiving a dodgy camshaft signal then it won't be able to time the ignition sequence correctly and hence the misfire codes. Its not a coincidence that 1,3 and 5 are the three cylinders on the rear (bank2) side - I would say you almost certainly have a sensor fault with the rear shaft sensor.

The sizes relate to the capacity, the larger capactity the larger the battery. 340Amp is fine for the Galaxy but there is nothing wrong with going higher, just not lower. The Gal also has a gigantic battery area so should accomodate pretty much any battery they do - when I got mine (from halfords as mine also died overnight) it was the largest silver one they do (about £110 iirc) and fits the whole tray perfectly. You'll need the M number and model off the side of the radio for "someone" to give you the code :lol:

Yup, negative off, positive off, one bolt to remove the front clamp and lift it out. Ensure you have your radio code first as once you disconnect the battery it'll ask for code entry next time (though some people on here can help you out if you don't :lol: ) The one you need from halfords its one of the largest ones they do, there have been a few reports on here of people asking the staff and getting the wrong size one so its best to just pick your own. Silver is certainly the way to go,

038906019NB relates to the ASZ engine code, which is the 130bhp version :lol: