Mirez

Why have you left it so long? There is indeed a high chance that significant damage may be underway now. Overheating can be caused by a number of things, the fans won't be helping the situation but won't be the cause of it either, Around town you arn't stressing the engine and its not until you start going quicker that you load the engine - hence the increase in heat. It centainly would point towards a main water pump failure.

Well to update: The main part is in, there are some benefits to this upgrade apparent already. Firstly the old version is made up of 3 pieces, on both my Mk2's these have rattled about over uneaven roads and the center panel squeeks against the glass. The new version is one long piece that's clamped down by the wiper arms, the weather seal on either side and by a clever U shape piece of plastic that cups the bottom of the windscreen itself - the whole thing in rock solid when refitted. Secondly, the way water is collected and dispursed seems to be greatly improved with it being clearly directed down towards the scuttle drains rather then being allowed to splash down and soak everything including the pollen filter! Finally, on the old one the center section is held in place with a big metal panel and theres a fair bit of weight to this - its no longer required with the new version and the more sloped profile has reduced wind noise rather more noticeably then I was expecting :) The strip that fixes to the top of the bonnet was sadly been broken in transit so I'm now on the scrounge for another but its looks to fit just fine and its not unsightly without it. I'm not convinced that the bulkhead divider and seal havn't been revised either for the newer version so I'll have to take a look at the parts catalogues when I'm back from the pub!

Not a chance, the 3-button flip key is completely different to the Ford system - you've been reading too many mondeo forums :) The only flip key you'll get working is a very specific VW one and even then it requires modification to work properly.

Following on from this thread: Trip Computer I thought it would be best to generate a new topic for cable rental. So this is to enable the distance to empty feature on the Mk2 Galaxy: Total cost will be

No worries. Generally, if a modules been under water then it'll be unrepairable but fortunately you can pick them up on ebay for

Clock spring units will be dealer only, and are normally upwards of

Hummmm, if the senders in place then it'll be wired and since it only go's to the cluster then it should have just worked so I would suggest its unlikely you have the sensor. On the plus the sump is a doddle to change on these :D Where abouts in the SW are you?

Ahhh join the club, what did you have to code for the oil temperature gauge? It should just work with the right sender... There isn't that much else in the eeprom of use, VIN is only stored in VW/Seat versions but only because the cluster is also the immobilisers on those so the key transponder codes are also in there. Mileage and other variable data for the MFD's in there and finally gauge configuration, ie where to point at what reading and thats about it.

Its all LED so won't be blown and the TDI uses the glowplug light instead of the MIL light... however, remove the top cowel of the steering column and look in - there are two bolts that you remove and then it clips out from the top.

What are you trying to do with it? Vag-tacho and a hex editor are what you need, take a read here: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=20063&st=30

You can with the old DOS based VCDS but not the newer version.

But its those 4 contact points that hold that extreamly heavy vehicle in place and help stop it quickly when needed, it makes no odds what condition the rest of the car's in if the things that keep it on the road are crap - 2 miles, 5000 miles, 100,000 miles - you can't predict when somethings going to happen and you'll need the difference between a budget and quality tyre. Indeed for me, if I were only doing 5K, then the ONLY option I'd be considering is a quality tyre, its potentially 3 to 4 years before you change them again.

Good work :angry2: Just to clarify though, that's the passenger side Middle row seat and not the actual passenger seat isn't it?

This is the complicated bit I was referring to earlier, the ABS system creates VAG pulses and since the instrument cluster is a VAG part then it probably has no bearing on your actual fault - have you cleared this code? Comms errors can be generated for a number of reasons, not least a flat battery so reset it, drive it and then check if its come back. In Measuring blocks the ABS controller should be able to give you the vehicle speed.

Its a screenshot from VW's ETKA thats all, I could have shown it to you using Ford's Mircrocat instead :angry2:

Connect to the ABS controller and see what that reports...

Correct part number :angry2:

The run on pump contributes to the heating system but its primary role is to prevent hotspots forming after the engine is turned off and to circulate heat to the rear heater. If it was failed (highly likely given you can't hear it anymore) then it certainly won't help but it should still get warm using the engines main water pump. My number one concern would be that the primary water pump has failed and its been working using the electric pump only for the last x number of months/years, whats the mileage and do you have a history of when the pump was last inspected or changed? Because the TDI is so efficient then even without any pumps working it will generally sit at 90 providing its not being pushed or worked hard but of course the actual block temperature will be higher then that. As said thats a concern though, so don't worry that much at the moment but get the run on pump fixed ASAP as a precaution. Its also worth checking the heater flap is moving in the cabin which allows the hot water into the matrix, if thats stopped then you'd also have the same symptoms - do you have heat from the rear heater?

A Cow? WTF were you doing parking up in a field? No wait... don't need to know that :angry2: Unfortunately there are a number of possible causes for this so diagnosing won't be easy! The two highly common issues that can cause notcy steering are seized strut top bushes and a seized or seizing alternator pully - the latter being the more common and pronounced. Its certainly not uncommon for a seizing alt pulley to give a 'variable' level of power assistance that can manifest itself as wheel 'wobble'. Tracking never just go's out unless the lock nuts been left undone - its caused by something being pushed, pulled or bent out of shape so if its now pulling to one side you need to investigate the bushes, mounts and assemblies around that side for wear or damage. I'd also take another look at the bearings, I've seen two now that were causing wheel wobble (albeit at higher speeds) yet the bearing showed no sign of movement or noise until the hub was removed for a more detailed inspection. Finally, if it is worst case then on the plus side fear not as the rack is one of the easier things to change on the galaxy and is nicely accessible from below :lol:

Yes, sounds like it :angry2:

Yeah the golf mirror, cover and mechanism is the same but the base plates different. More annoyingly is that the base plate is compressed onto the housing assembly so you can't undo it ans swap them over - unfortunately you need a sharan/alhambra mirror. TBH I never had any issue with noise with the old Galaxy mirrors and didn't notice any difference other then in size, the mirror is noticeably smaller then the old one which makes it just that little bit harder to maneuver

Well yes and no, I've just sourced the two panels for

Thats just the two plastic pieces, the long one under the wipers and the one attached to the top of the bonnet!!

No the ecu controls the ISCV based on a number of sensors and not just the VSS signal, Looking at the wiring diagrams it appears the 2.3 uses the traditional VAG system rather then Ford's own in that the instrument cluster does generate the signal for the ECU. However they don't make clear if the Ford ECU is using the VAG speed signal instead of a traditional ford signal which could explain why you can't read a speed signal with the software. I would advise getting Vagcom up and working and connected to the instrument cluster and the parking system - both should be able to show you a speed signal and the park system is receiving the same output that the ECU seems to.