Mirez

There are a couple of switch types so could be that. Normally seat are cheapest but its probably Ford that stand the best chance of looking up the part you need based on chassis / reg number

I've got an failed Mk2 unit knocking about that has the bits you need - you can have it for the price of postage, drop me a PM and I'll let you know.

The nav unit?

No comfort module on these, its part of central electrical unit. The only module that likes swimming on these is the parking controller under the passenger seat.

If none of the control units are resonding then its likely you have something putting a voltage out on the line. The K line is held at 12V at most times and the testing kit will pull it to ground which is the "signal" for all modules on the network to listen for diagnostic communications. To have none of the modules responding means you either don't have a working ground on the OBD connector or the K-Line is being held artificially high by some other device. Do you have anything aftermarket on the car?

Remove the headlight assembly, fir the lamps then refit the assembly - 4 torx screws and a connector - so much easier then using the silly flaps that arn't big enough! Just make sure you mark the beam on a wall or garage door first though so you have a reference point when refitting.

It should yes, virtually all Galaxy clusters from 2001 support the function.

1) do P&O North Sea ferries have height restrictions? Used to be 2.5m, not sure if its the same now 4) what the maximum weight of luggage I can expect to carry on the roof (bear in mind the roof box and fixing parafania all weigh) 75Kg is the Maximum roof loading of the galaxy/alhambra 5) Are there any insurance issues I should be aware of? Yes, don't go fast enough that it rips off and kills dozens of motorists behind you... that's just a lawsuit in a can. 6) where do I store the bloody thing? Why not buy second hand and then flog it back on after the trip?

That'll teach you not to read my posts :angry: Forum Link But seriously that is poor design, and its not nice when you find a rusty patch anywhere - After the last Mk2 which had it creeping in on a few places, one of the first things I did was fully waxoil this one including nearly all the bits you've found rust on yours, coincedently I've just had to replace my winch as it was also knackerd :unsure: Is it that far advanced that you can't grind it back and reseal it?

Thats not the EGR, that's the secondary air pump which is to aid combustion during warm up. The units on the bulkhead are valves.

I should say so! I'm always amazed by how many people (and garages) skimp on servicing and dont change filters like this. Noticeable difference?

Turbo and braking - could both be vacuum related so check the pipework again. A missing speed signal will cause all manor of running issues as the ECU can't adjust properly so again check the wiring to it.

I don't see why not, I think you might struggle to get the drill on the heads but you could always take the scaped bonnet off to get to them - the deflectors

Unfortunately it seems reasonably common, the service history for ours said its been changed 5 times in its life yet when I pulled the thing out it still had the 03 date stamp on it :rolleyes: I never use garages unless I really have to but fortunately in our case the local ford dealer is truely outstanding.

Thats certainly true, I put new lamps in this one about 2 months after we got it as one was a slightly different colour (yes I know I'm anal lol) and they were noticeably brighter then - its more the clarity and contrast they provide then the brightness though but again its down to personal preference and circumstance. We do a lot of night driving and compared to the golf (which is 8 years newer) I always arrive home feeling less exhausted when I've used the gal. Anyway, we digress! Photo time: Before and after:: Midway with just the scuttle changed but no deflector: A more detailed photo of how it fits: A closer picture of how the drainage has been heavily redesigned: A boring photo but I took it so I'm using it :rolleyes: - A shiney new "7M3 853 467 01C" in all its plasticy glory: Side on Before and After: ] And a full fruntal (oh-er) to finish: Observations? Well I drove the car for about 2 weeks without the deflector attached and I can't say it's really needed other then to tidy the job up a bit - although to me it even looked fine without it. Its worth a note that the two covers it replaces are bolted in place with two thorx screws each side and they just pop off however the new full width deflector should be riveted 5 places to the underside of the bonnet along with these bolts - I coudn't see an way to get the drill in there and coupled with the fact the rivets needed were massive, I opted to use double sided trim tape to hold it in place. You can buy it from most factors/dealers and its evil stuff anyway (its the stuff they stick the door bump strips on with) so when attached to the bonnet with just that and not even bolted it wasn't going anywhere! - personally I would suggest you use the same method rather then drill 5 holes just for the sake of it really. Finally, I'm still not sure on the bulkhead divider - I couldn't find a revised part number so it looks to be the same but I'll wait to see what it looks like from the factory when I find one in the scrapies. If you look at the drainage photo, that shows it the best. The plastic of the scuttle finishes just before the rubber that sits on top of the divider starts where before the rubber sandwiched the two together - as I said though it shouldn't make any difference at all as water is heading down there regardless.

Emma, posting on multiple forums won't help, as I said on the talkford forum..... What model? year? engine? without that nobody can really help you.

You might struggle for a reply purely because autobox faults are normally quite specialist. I've never had one so probably not the best to comment but the usual issues seem to be resolved by changing or topping up the fluid. Since you've done that already I think you need to get the autobox controller read for fault codes, it's almost certainly going to have one or more stored in it with the issues you have and it might point you to a sensor that needs changing. You could then also use the search for the fault code and see if anyone else has had a similar problem. Good luck!

Ahhhh... you might want to post it in the Mk3 section then as it probably won't help many in here :rolleyes: Good tip but strange its peeling, any damage to that sensor or is it suspected manufacturing issue?

Is this on a Mk1 then? Mk2's arn't painted so if you do have paint on them then it shouldn't have been there in the first place :rolleyes:

A generic OBD2 device won't work as you'll only connect to the engines ECU using that. You need a tool that can correctly address each module in the car (such as Vag-Com) to be able to diagnose the individual components.

14.4 is a perfect alt voltage when running, acceptable is about .4V either way. 12.9V when off is either a new car, or new battery - its basically exactly where it should be if the battery is perfect. Anywho, yes check the battery cable from the alt and the aux box - after that then its an alt failure so either brushes or recon unit.

Well they only did the TDI with the 115 engine, for some reason no 130 and I just feel that's gonna be a bit underpowered. I know what you mean about the lack of options out there, I've seen 2 in the last two months -ones about 2k more then its worth (X reg, 112K @ 6K!) and the other was over 160K miles so I'm gonna be hunting for a while - coupled with the fact that I 100% want xenon lights again I may never find one lol. As a question whats the real world MPG like? If it can crack 20 then I'll be happy - its likely to do less then 5K miles a year if its no longer being used for commuting anyway. The panels due on friday so I'll take the photo then when I fit it :unsure:

More the likely, some codes are self clearing but others don't and just sit there until cleared.

Hence you need to clear them out and see what comes back, a lot of modern cars have codes in them because the garage it either too lazy or not equipped to clear the codes.

Ohh and FYI, the rest of your codes: 00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 00626 - Glow Plug Indicator Light (K29) 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 00625 - Vehicle Speed Signal 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 00741 - Brake Pedal Monitoring 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 65535 - Internal Controller Error 37-10 - Memory Error 00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent