Mirez

You also need to clear all those codes, then take it for a drive and then rescan - you don't know whats current and whats from previous faults otherwise.

No, its been on the back burner for a while and there is a chance that I won't need the galaxy for a daily commute anymore in which case she may be retired and a V6 4Motion sharan bought into the equation for fun :unsure: I didn't manage to find another bonnet strip so thats on order from a main dealer at the moment -

You need to describe it a bit more or take a pic, there are 4 lamps which have exclamation marks on them.

Nope, will clear on its own and it can't be a short as its a ground loop circuit - when you changed the pads I take it you installed new ones with the wiring in place? If so make 100% sure the connector is connected for both the front and rear pads.

To the negative????????? Its almost pointless having a fuse on it then lol, and would lead me to suspect its not been installed by an automotive electrician... most likely aftermarket stereo equipment.

lol, well not quite as it now works, well partly. :16: BJ this was well beyond a wash off, the track had lifted in a number of places so washing it would have made it worse if anything. Gave it an acid bath to start with to strip back some of the crud, then reflowed the solder around the controller where a number of the pins had corroded together. Had to remake a total of 17 joints elsewhere on the PCB and patch in 3 new wires where the track was broken but it fires up, responds to VagCom and seems to work fine with just the rear sensors connected however it still errors with the fronts connected so there are still issues with the board that I'll have to look over later - since its all SMD compentry my eyes have had enough now lol So to sum up, its not the end of the world if the controllers been submerged but the quicker you get to it the higher the chance of recovery.

For all those that were interested in repairing the parking sensor controller once it's been submerged, you might want to think again: Many thanks to Malo225 for sending me his defective unit for inspection, as you can see on the face of it it looks fairly terminal - some serious corrosion has taken place to a number of the SMD components and even the PCB tracks have lifted in a few places where the board itself is rusting... my first impressions are that it's unrepairable but I'll be doing some measuring later to find out just how bad the electrical damage is and I'll report back to you all then!

VSS is Ford speak for Vehicle Speed Sender/Signal (GALA for VW users) - the sender is on the gearbox, or from the ABS system on later cars.

Likewise, I think I have about 3 left to change and then they are all marine grade jubilee clips :(

Some will, some won't - depends on the manufacturer. Differences with the bumpers and brackets are your problem, the mount points are the same so any should be doo-able with a little faffing. Depending on what your planning to tow, take a look on ebay - there are normally second hand ones knocking about on there but be carefull that its designed for the vehicle - also remember that its not illegal to fit a second-hand bar (even though a lot of people will say it is) but the security of it is now part of the MoT so ideally use new bolts when you attach it.

Tricky one, if its leaked over 4 years then great (well-ish lol). Think I would leave it turned off but give it a week or two and then measure the pressure again, see if its dropping or stable.

Yes I would normally agree, but the sensors are actually a very simple circuit - and if its beeping then it has power (no other fuse) so can only be something defective.

Not really, if the head gasket is leaking into the coolent system then you won't be getting full power from that cylinder - hence additional fuel, its probably more that you are having to work it harder then its using the fuel. Secondary water pump sits behind the fuel filter, somewhat hard to see with the bulkhead panel in place but look in and its a silver cylinder about 6inch long mounted horizontally. turn the ignition on - wait 20 seconds then turn it off, it makes a semi-audible whir in the engine bay for about 3 minutes if its working. Plenty of posts on here regarding it, under various names including "Run-on", "Auxially", "Secondary" and "Booster" pump - its main purpose is to prevent hot spots on switch off and pump coolent down to the rear heater but it provides some circulation to the engine when working which is critical if the main pump has failed

Yup, sorry to give the bad news but coolant trying to escape the system is nearly always one thing - gas in the water caused by H/G failure. Normally, the TDI's take forever to warm up and even with a primary water pump failure they can still live on (and still take a long time) to reach temp! For it to be heating up so quickly is why I would suspect both primary and secondary water pump failures and ultimately probably the cause of the H/G fail.

Ahhhh ok, then they can go back on the "Trusted garage list" lol To be fair, there isn't a lot it can be - the system isn't exactly complicated so if you can rule out air intake then you are left with the fan, matrix and ducting - the only thing that has coolent near it and could therefore cause the smell is the matrix. If you are 100% certain that its a coolent smell and not intake or A/C smells then the coolent lines are only in the cabin for the front and rear matrix's so its got to be one of them (or the associated pipework) thats leaking.

Sounds like both, with probable head gasket and secondary water pump failures to boot.

Did they tell you they stripped the dash to change the filter? If so add them to the "Not to be trusted" list of garages as the only filter for air intake is accessible from the engine side ONLY - there arn't any filters that can be accessed or changed by removing the dash! However a coolent leak caused by a leaky matrix would require the removal of the dash - so check carefully their wording. Did they change the pollen filter? Get it the bonnet with a torch and check the colour of it - I've seen countless garages invoice for "renew pollen filter" and its never been touched, as an example my 03 plate had "Renew pollen filter" down in the service history no less then 5 times (1 main dealer and 3 local garages) and when I removed it I found it to be the original filter with an 03 date stamp on it. Musty chemically smells can quite often come from here when its rotting away. Dont forget that you'll also have a rear heater with its own seperate matrix and fan (Located behind the passenger side tailgate side panel) - try turning off the rear fan and seeing if the smell improves or not.

Hi Nick, "safe pin" indicates it has no power on that connector - I would say you have a fuse blown for sure. Testing in circuit won't prove if the fuse is good or bad you MUST remove them to test - I cant look up fuse numbers just at the moment but pay special attention to the column of micro fuses above, and to the left of the two main rows in that box. The parking sensors are likely to be an unhappy coincedence :o

So what model did you buy? What history did it have and what checks did you do prior to purchase? I've had 3 now over 5 years and 80k with no major problems at all. As with any car there are bad, poorly maintained trouble examples out there hence why proper history and checks are so important but don't kid yourself the voyager would be any better!

There are no markings, its all done purely by measurements if you don't have the factory bars. Read the attached instructions for all the specific measurements: 1040.pdf If you do want to fit the factory rails then it is as simple as Peter says - I have a set knocking about you can have for the price of postage if you (or anyone else) wants.

It does on modern system yes, but its nearly always a single pin connector - a two pin connector like the OP has makes me think its designed for an external regulator no?

I'll be ultra suprised if the charge light has anything to do with it not charging as there is no way the charge circuit will go via the cluster so something else is clearly wrong with that wiring. This isn't a direct go at you but I fully support seatkid's comment and really struggle to understand this type of logic - its the wrong part for the car end of. You wouldn't "make-do" with a fiesta's brake disc instead of a galaxy one if thats all they had, so why make-do with an alternator thats also clearly not designed for your vehicle?

Ford's are Din 1.5, you should find that any from a suitable year ford will fit - alternatively you can buy the navigation radio surround from ford (IIRC

I think you'll have issues full-stop. Firstly the fans are 2, 3, or 4 speed variable by the controller so they'll only receive the full 12V at full speed (which is loud). Secondly the controller isn't a simple relay affair so applying 12V further down the line to put the fan on will need a suitable sized diode introduced to stop back voltage damaging the controller.

Undo the nut, close the bonnet, lift the wiper arm up so its pointling towards the sky and lift off - if they arn't seized :wacko: