insider

You could try checking and cleaning your idle speed control valve.

You could just disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. The ECU will then lose any previously saved values. Don't forget your radio code though!

If you're close to or on minimum tread depth then they will be bad in the wet. Just changing to new, all-weather tyres will make a big difference and will save the expense of changing back and forth, the winter tyres wearing out quicker and your fuel consumption increasing with them fitted. There's some useful information on this site - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

Are you going to have a spare set of wheels and swap them back for the 99% of the year when we don't have snow? In my opinion it's better to stick with the standard all-weather tyres. If the snow is bad enough to warrant the additional benefit of winter tyres is your journey really necessary?

For the cigarette lighter try this - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=111887

Sounds like a bad electrical connection somewhere. It's under warranty so the Dealer is obliged to fix it. Keep onto them, take it to another Dealer if necessary but don't let them fob you off saying they can't find the cause - something is causing it! Dealers usually resort to changing anything and everything they can to solve the problem (especially when you have to pay). If they can't find the fault suggest to them that they change the instrument panel, fusebox, wiring loom, etc., etc. to see if it cures the fault. It's under warranty so you won't be paying for it! If you're still getting nowhere contact Ford Customer Services. You can't continue putting yourself at risk driving without instruments.

The information I have is the fault code 17958 is a "charge pressure deviation" which I suppose could be related to the MAF as it is this that measures the charge pressure (Mass Air Flow). However, if you've changed the MAF and the symptoms are the same, the cause could be something else.

VAG-COM will work for some of the other modules but won't read the ECU because it's Ford. The ELM327 should work though.

You possibly have air in your coolant system preventing it circulating around your heater matrix. Start simple before moving onto more major items like the water pump!

Diesels don't have idle control valves. Engine speed is governed by the amount of fuel injected. Have you tried clearing the fault code to see if it comes back? Are there any other fault codes. Code 17958 is turbo related.

Perhaps this will help - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=118499.

If there are no obvious screw covers then it most likely just prises out of the headlining with a wide, flat-bladed screwdriver behind it.

Which model and year do you have?

Try taking it to a specialist auto gearbox repairer? It could be the selector switch or the solenoid that engages reverse but it's obviously something that doesn't generate a fault code in the auto transmission control module.

It could very well be the MAF then! It should be very noticeable if you disconnect a good MAF.

Ask them to confirm that the aerial lead it securely plugged into the back of the unit. Was the aerial OK in their previous unit? Perhaps the mechanism has moved in transit from you to him? Another member had a similar problem recently - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=121689

Yes it does and so does the 150.

... and on the subject of Skittles - has anyone else noticed how much that Britney Spears perfume smells like Skittles? (or is it just me? <_< )

You could do that in a Galaxy too! <_<

This should answer some of your questions - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=117745.

You could take it of and clean it but you'd get a better result if you replace it (not too expensive).

The only consequence of not having it is that the car will not heat up as quickly in cold weather. If you can live with that then it's certainly the cheapest option. However, is it possible that this is the first time the heater has operated since it was done (previous days have been milder so it might not have activated)? If so, other members have stated that their heaters smoke a bit for the first few times after replacing the glow plug. It might settle down after a short while.

(1) Idle speed control valve? (2) Wheel bearing? Worn brake disc? Note also that noises can sound like they come from the rear even if they are from the front. I had a worn front suspension drop link but the sound was transmitted through the car so that it sounded like something rattling in the back!

If the cause was ":(" then, if you're careful not to leave anything switched on again it shouldn't happen again. I doubt if "a)" is the cause because the alternator should be more than capable of charging the battery and satisfying the electrical load while the engine is running, even on short journeys. As big_kev suggests, don't restrict yourself to just the battery as the cause - it could be something else either draining it or not charging it.

I think he means miles not MPG. If you use cost as a measure rather than quantity of fuel then you will do less miles for